✦ Oil-soluble, stable form of Vitamin C ideal for anhydrous and oil-phase formulations
✦ Acts as a lipid-soluble antioxidant that protects oils and skin from free-radical damage
✦ Supports skin brightening and a more even, radiant complexion
✦ Helps support collagen and improve the look of mature or sun-stressed skin
✦ Gentler and less irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid
✦ Versatile across serums, creams, balms, lip care, and body products
✦ Low-odor, easy-to-disperse powder; vegan and synthetically produced

Ascorbyl Palmitate is an ester created by combining L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) with palmitic acid, a fatty acid commonly sourced from palm or other plant oils. First developed to overcome the instability of pure Vitamin C in oil-based and food systems (where it is also known as E304), it became a trusted antioxidant in both nutrition and cosmetics. In skincare, it bridged the gap between effective Vitamin C activity and the practical need for an oil-compatible, longer-lasting ingredient.

What makes Ascorbyl Palmitate special is its oil solubility. While standard Vitamin C is water-loving and quick to oxidize, this ester dissolves into the lipid phase, allowing it to integrate into facial oils, balms, and the oil portion of creams. There it works on two fronts: as a brightening, collagen-supporting active for the skin, and as an antioxidant that helps delay rancidity and protect the formulation itself.

Bio Shop Pakistan supplies cosmetic-grade Ascorbyl Palmitate suitable for DIY formulators, indie skincare brands, soap makers, perfumers, and professional cosmetic chemists.

INCI Name : Ascorbyl Palmitate
Chemical Name : 6-O-Palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid
CAS Number : 137-66-6
Molecular Formula : C22H38O7
Appearance : White to yellowish-white powder
Odor : Odorless to slight characteristic
pH (1% solution) : Not Applicable (oil-soluble)
Solubility : Soluble in oils and alcohol; poorly soluble in water
Specific Gravity : Verify with supplier
Flash Point : Not Applicable (solid powder)
HLB Value : Not Applicable
Recommended Use Level : 0.1% – 1%
Type : Vitamin C ester / lipid-soluble antioxidant
Shelf Life : Approximately 24 months in sealed, cool, dark storage

Skincare (Creams, Serums, Facial Oils) : ★★★★★ — Excellent in oil-phase and anhydrous serums for brightening and antioxidant support. Predissolve in a carrier oil before adding to the oil phase.
Body Care (Balms, Butters, Oils) : ★★★★☆ — Adds antioxidant protection and skin-conditioning value to rich anhydrous products. Pair with Vitamin E to extend stability.
Lip Care (Balms, Oils) : ★★★★☆ — Suits oil-based lip products and helps protect delicate lip skin. Keep levels low to avoid any gritty feel.
Haircare (Oils, Masks, Conditioners) : ★★★☆☆ — Useful in leave-on oil treatments more than rinse-off formats. Best in lipid-rich masks rather than watery shampoos.
Functional Cosmetics (Sun Care, Anti-Aging Boosters) : ★★★★☆ — Works well as an antioxidant booster in protective and anti-aging products. Combine with stable filters or actives rather than relying on it as sole UV protection.

In my own formulating, I treat Ascorbyl Palmitate as my "oil-phase Vitamin C" — the one I reach for when a water-based ascorbic acid serum would be too unstable or too harsh. It shines in facial oils and anhydrous balms, and I almost always pair it with Tocopherol because the two protect each other and the oils around them. Because it is a powder that can stay slightly gritty, I never just sprinkle it in; I dissolve it first.

ADVANCED TIP: Predissolve Ascorbyl Palmitate at 0.2%–0.5% into a small portion of warm carrier oil (around 40–50°C) until fully dispersed, then blend into the cooled oil phase. Add Tocopherol at roughly 0.5%–1% for synergistic antioxidant protection, and keep the finished product in airless or opaque packaging to limit oxidation and yellowing.

Normal Skin : ★★★★★ — Brightening and antioxidant benefits with excellent tolerance.
Dry Skin : ★★★★★ — Oil-soluble nature integrates beautifully into nourishing oils and creams.
Oily Skin : ★★★☆☆ — Effective but the oil-phase delivery can feel heavy on very oily skin.
Combination : ★★★★☆ — Works well in lighter emulsions balanced for mixed skin.
Sensitive Skin : ★★★★☆ — Generally gentler and less stinging than pure L-ascorbic acid.
Mature Skin : ★★★★★ — Antioxidant and collagen support make it well suited to aging skin.
Acne-Prone : ★★★☆☆ — Tolerable for many, but oil-based delivery may not suit congestion-prone skin.

CONCEPT 1: Brightening Facial Oil Serum
Usage Level : 0.3%
Key Ingredients: Squalane, Rosehip Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate
Result : A lightweight glow-boosting oil serum that brightens and protects against daily oxidative stress.

CONCEPT 2: Antioxidant Night Cream
Usage Level : 0.5%
Key Ingredients: Emulsifying Wax, Shea Butter, Glycerin, Tocopherol → Ascorbyl Palmitate
Result : A rich overnight cream that supports radiance and helps defend mature skin from free-radical damage.

CONCEPT 3: Protective Lip Balm
Usage Level : 0.2%
Key Ingredients: Beeswax, Castor Oil, Candelilla Wax, Ascorbyl Palmitate
Result : A nourishing anhydrous lip balm with added antioxidant protection for sun-exposed lips.

INCI Declared : Yes — declared as Ascorbyl Palmitate on the ingredient list
EU Cosmetics Reg : Permitted — not subject to a specific Annex concentration restriction
Rinse-Off Limit : No limit established
Leave-On Limit : No limit established
Allergen Alert : No — not a listed fragrance allergen
Skin Safety : Safe at recommended levels; patch test advised for sensitive users
Eye Area Use : Use with caution
Ingestion : Not for internal use
Pregnancy Use : Considered safe for topical use; consult physician if unsure
Child Safety : Safe at low cosmetic levels in well-formulated products
Ventilation : Not required
Storage : Cool, dry place, away from light and air
Container : HDPE or glass — avoid reactive metals such as iron and copper
⚠️ Prone to oxidation and yellowing/browning over time; protect from heat, light, air, and trace metals to maintain color and activity.

Working pH Range : Most stable in mildly acidic to neutral oil-phase systems
Heat Stability : Add to oil phase; predissolve around 40–50°C and avoid prolonged high heat
Freeze-Thaw Stable : Verify with supplier
Emulsion Type : O/W or W/O (incorporated via oil phase)
Emulsification Phase: Either (best predissolved in oil)
Compatible With : Carrier oils, esters, Tocopherol, antioxidants, oil-soluble actives
Incompatible With : High-pH systems, iron and copper ions, strong oxidizers
Oxidation Risk : Medium — pair with Tocopherol and use protective packaging
Discoloration Risk : Possible — may yellow or brown with light, heat, air, or metal exposure
Formulation Notes : Always predissolve in warm oil to avoid grittiness, and store finished products away from light to preserve color and performance.

Q: Is Ascorbyl Palmitate the same as Vitamin C?
A: It is a stable, oil-soluble ester of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It delivers Vitamin C benefits in a gentler, more oil-compatible form.

Q: What percentage should I use in a serum?
A: A typical range is 0.1% to 1%, with 0.2%–0.5% common in facial oils. Predissolve it in warm carrier oil before adding to your oil phase.

Q: Why did my product turn yellow?
A: Ascorbyl Palmitate can oxidize and discolor when exposed to light, heat, air, or trace metals. Use opaque or airless packaging and add Tocopherol to slow this down.

Q: Can I use it in water-based toners?
A: It is poorly soluble in water, so it performs best in oils, balms, and the oil phase of emulsions. Water-based toners are not an ideal home for it.

Q: How does it compare to L-Ascorbic Acid?
A: L-Ascorbic Acid is more potent but water-soluble, unstable, and can be irritating. Ascorbyl Palmitate is gentler and oil-soluble, making it easier to formulate, though generally milder in activity.