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Ethylene Brassylate
Ethylene Brassylate
Olfactory Notes: A smooth, sweet, and versatile macrocyclic musk fixative.
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Information About Ethylene Brassylate
Key Features
✦ Premium synthetic macrocyclic musk with a clean, skin-like, softly sweet scent and exceptional base note character in all fragrance types
✦ Outstanding fixative power — anchors top and heart notes, significantly extending the longevity and tenacity of any blend
✦ Extremely low odor threshold of approximately 0.006 ppb — highly diffusive and detectable at very low concentrations
✦ Versatile across fine perfumery, attar blending, functional fragrance, cosmetics, hair care, and home fragrance applications
✦ Blends seamlessly with florals, woods, ambers, and other musks without competing or distorting surrounding notes
✦ Fully synthetic, vegan, and cruelty-free with a more favorable profile than nitromusks or polycyclic musk alternatives
✦ Supplied as white to off-white crystalline flakes at 97%+ purity — pre-dissolve in warm ethanol or IPM before use
About Ethylene Brassylate
thylene Brassylate is a macrocyclic musk compound first synthesized in the mid-20th century by condensing ethylene glycol with brassylic acid, a 13-carbon dicarboxylic acid derived from erucic acid found in cruciferous plant oils. The macrocyclic musk class gained prominence in perfumery from the 1970s onward as the fragrance industry sought cleaner, safer alternatives to nitromusks, which faced regulatory pressure due to environmental persistence and toxicity concerns. Ethylene Brassylate quickly became one of the most prized materials in this class, valued for its smooth, natural-smelling musk character and exceptional performance as a base note and fixative in complex fragrance compositions.
What distinguishes Ethylene Brassylate from polycyclic musks such as Galaxolide is the transparency and clarity of its odor profile. Where polycyclic musks tend to carry a slightly synthetic or fatty character, Ethylene Brassylate produces a genuine skin-like warmth that closely mimics the scent of clean skin. This quality makes it particularly valuable in skin-adjacent fragrances — intimate perfumes, body creams, and roll-on attars — where the goal is a seamless extension of the body's natural scent rather than a dominant perfume signature. Its very low odor threshold also means it performs strongly at usage rates well below 1% in many functional applications, offering excellent cost efficiency.
Bio Shop Pakistan supplies cosmetic-grade Ethylene Brassylate suitable for DIY perfumers, professional fragrance blenders, cosmetic formulators, and home crafters seeking a reliable, high-purity macrocyclic musk fixative.
Olfactory Profile
SCENT DESCRIPTION : Ethylene Brassylate opens with a smooth, transparent warmth that settles into the skin almost imperceptibly. The character is unmistakably musky — clean and intimate, reminiscent of warm skin after bathing, with a delicate powdery sweetness in the dry-down. At moderate concentrations, a soft fatty-waxy facet emerges, adding body and quiet richness without heaviness. The overall impression is one of restrained sensuality — a musk that amplifies what surrounds it while contributing its own gentle, skin-close presence.
NOTE POSITION : Base (with Mid-Base diffusion character in warm climates)
FRAGRANCE FAMILY : White Musk, Clean Musk, Skin Musk
FACETS : Clean · Powdery · Skin-like · Sweet · Warm
TENACITY : Very High — detectable on skin for 24 to 72 hours; longer on fabric
SILLAGE : Medium — projects a soft, intimate warmth close to the skin; elegant and non-aggressive
Technical Specifications
Chemical Name : 1,4-Dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione
CAS Number : 105-95-3
Synonyms : Musk EB, Ethylene glycol brassylate, Macrocyclic musk EB, Ethylene dodecanedioate
Purity % : 97% minimum
Appearance : White to off-white crystalline flakes or waxy solid; melts above approximately 38°C
Odor Threshold : Approximately 0.006 ppb in air (verify with supplier)
Solubility : Soluble in warm ethanol, IPM, DPG, benzyl benzoate; insoluble in water
Specific Gravity : 1.03 to 1.05 at 20°C
Flash Point : Approximately 132°C (269°F)
Type : Synthetic — Macrocyclic Musk (Cyclic Dilactone)
Applications & Usage Guidelines
Fine Fragrance ★★★★★
Ethylene Brassylate is a cornerstone ingredient in fine fragrance formulation, widely used as a base note anchor and fixative. It extends the wear of a composition and adds quiet depth without distorting the character of top or heart notes. Particularly effective in white florals, clean skin musks, intimate orientals, and transparent accords.
Attar and Oriental Blending ★★★★☆
In attar and oil-based oriental blending, Ethylene Brassylate acts as a modern fixative that extends the longevity of heavy compositions. It softens and smooths the overall character when combined with oud, rose, sandalwood, and amber materials. Ideal for roll-on attars and concentrated oil perfumes designed for warm climates.
Functional Fragrance ★★★★★
One of the best-performing musks in functional fragrance, Ethylene Brassylate excels in fabric softeners, laundry detergents, and household cleaners. Its clean, fabric-fresh character is ideally suited for products where the perception of cleanliness is the primary fragrance objective. Very cost-effective in this category due to its low odor threshold.
Cosmetics ★★★★☆
Widely used in body lotions, creams, deodorants, and skin care fragrancing at low usage rates. Ethylene Brassylate complements skin-warming cosmetic bases and enhances the sensory experience of leave-on products. Always formulate within current IFRA leave-on limits and verify rates against current guidelines.
Home Fragrance ★★★★★
Performs very well in reed diffusers, wax melts, and room sprays due to its high tenacity-to-diffusion balance. In candles it contributes a clean, warm base note that pairs naturally with florals, fresh accords, and woody compositions. Its high flash point also makes it a safe and reliable candle ingredient.
IFRA & Usage Rate
Usage Rates as percentage of finished product:
EDP : 15 to 25%
EDT : 10 to 20%
Body Lotion : 0.5 to 2%
Shampoo/Body Wash : 0.5 to 1%
Candle : 3 to 8%
Reed Diffuser : 5 to 15%
Soap : 0.3 to 1%
⚠️ Ethylene Brassylate is a waxy solid at room temperature. Always pre-dissolve by warming to 45 to 50°C in ethanol, IPM, or DPG before incorporating into any blend. Do not add the solid directly to a cold formula.
⚠️ Ethylene Brassylate is subject to QRA (Quantitative Risk Assessment) evaluation under IFRA for certain leave-on categories. Calculate usage against the sensitization threshold for your specific product category before commercial production.
IFRA 51st Amendment — Key Category Limits (approximate, verify at ifrafragrance.org):
Category 3 (Eye area products) : 0.8% — verify with current standard
Category 4 (Fine fragrance, leave-on) : Not restricted — verify with current standard
Category 5A/5B (Body lotion, leave-on) : 1.0% — verify with current standard
Category 9 (Rinse-off face/body) : Not restricted — verify with current standard
Category 11A (Fabric softener) : Not restricted — verify with current standard
Note: Always confirm current IFRA 51st Amendment limits at ifrafragrance.org before any commercial production. Figures above are approximate guidance only.
Blending Guide
Method 1 — As a Base Fixative
Pre-dissolve Ethylene Brassylate in warm ethanol or IPM at 45 to 50°C and incorporate it as 5 to 20% of the fragrance concentrate. Add this solution to your accord after combining all top and heart notes. This maximizes the fixative effect, prevents crystallization, and ensures even distribution throughout the blend.
Method 2 — As a Layered Musk Base
Use at 3 to 10% alongside complementary musks such as Habanolide, Galaxolide, or Ambroxan to build a complex, multi-dimensional musk base. Ethylene Brassylate sits cleanly beneath heavier and denser musks, contributing transparency, diffusion, and a natural skin-like quality without competing with surrounding materials.
Method 3 — As a Solo Base in Minimalist Compositions
In clean white musk or skin musk compositions, Ethylene Brassylate can constitute up to 25% of the fragrance concentrate. Pair with one or two transparent florals such as Hedione or a light aldehydic note, plus a subtle woody anchor. The result is a sophisticated, wearable, and long-lasting minimalist fragrance suitable for all genders.
BEST PAIRINGS:
Rose Absolute → Softens the floral and adds lasting skin warmth and intimate sensuality
Sandalwood → Creates a creamy, warm musk-wood base with smooth texture and excellent tenacity
Hedione → Amplifies jasmine and white floral clarity; the two materials are transparent and radiant together
Iso E Super → Boosts woody-musk diffusion, producing an airy cedar-musk accord with skin-close projection
Benzyl Benzoate → Smooth fixative synergy that enhances blend roundness, stability, and overall softness
Habanolide → Macrocyclic musk pairing for rich, layered clean musk compositions with natural complexity
Ethyl Vanillin → Adds sweet-musky warmth ideal for oriental, gourmand, and amber base building
Ambroxan → Creates a sophisticated amber-musk foundation with exceptional longevity and modern character
Cedarwood Atlas → Introduces a dry, clean facet that balances the powdery-sweet quality of the musk
AVOID:
Avoid high concentrations of eugenol or isoeugenol in the same base as these phenolic materials may cause discoloration in pale or white formulas. Do not apply Ethylene Brassylate neat or undiluted to skin under any circumstances.
Perfumer's Note
I have worked with Ethylene Brassylate across every fragrance category — fine perfumery, home care, personal care, and oil-based attar blending — and its versatility never stops impressing me. What I find most remarkable is not its tenacity, which is extraordinary, but its transparency. Most fixatives impose their own identity on a blend; Ethylene Brassylate holds everything in place while letting the composition breathe freely. It is the silent anchor — the ingredient that makes other materials smell truer, rounder, and more lasting. In climates like Pakistan's, where summer heat accelerates the volatility of top notes and can thin out base compositions, this material is invaluable. It locks the base without adding weight and keeps oil-based attars projecting cleanly through the dry-down.
ADVANCED TIP: When working with natural oud oil or heavy resinous bases, pre-blend Ethylene Brassylate with an equal weight of benzyl benzoate at 45°C before incorporating into your accord. This combination produces a fluid, easy-to-handle fixative carrier with enhanced holding power. It softens the sharp or animalic facets of rough oud, improves the overall blendability of thick natural resinoids, and significantly extends the dry-down without introducing any foreign character of its own into the final composition.
Safety & Storage
Physical State : Waxy crystalline solid at room temperature; melts above approximately 38°C
Skin Safety : Potential sensitizer at high concentrations; always dilute and use within current IFRA limits
Eye Contact : Avoid direct contact; if contact occurs flush thoroughly with clean water for 15 minutes and seek medical advice if irritation persists
Ingestion : Not for internal use; keep away from children; seek immediate medical attention if accidentally ingested
Ventilation : Work in a well-ventilated area when handling molten material, warm solutions, or concentrated stock dilutions
Storage : Store in a cool dry location below 25°C away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and open flame
Shelf Life : 3 to 5 years when stored sealed in recommended container under correct conditions
Container : HDPE or glass containers preferred; avoid PVC and reactive metal containers
Flammability : Flash point approximately 132°C; low flammability risk under normal handling and storage conditions
FAQ
Q: Ethylene Brassylate is a solid. How do I dissolve it properly before use?
A: Warm it gently to 45 to 50°C using a water bath or double boiler, then stir into warm ethanol, IPM, or DPG. Never microwave directly. Allow the solution to cool before adding to your blend.
Q: What is the recommended usage rate for an EDP?
A: Typically 15 to 25% of the fragrance concentrate. Because its odor threshold is extremely low, start at the lower end and adjust upward after evaluating the blend on a dry-down strip.
Q: Is Ethylene Brassylate safe in leave-on skin products like body lotions?
A: Yes, within IFRA guidelines. For body lotions and leave-on creams, usage is generally kept at 0.5 to 2% of the finished product. Always verify current IFRA 51st Amendment limits at ifrafragrance.org before production.
Q: Can I use it in candles and does it hold up to heat?
A: Yes. Ethylene Brassylate performs well in candles at 3 to 8% of the fragrance load. Its flash point of approximately 132°C makes it safe and stable in standard wax applications. It contributes a clean, warm base note that carries well through the burn.
Q: How does Ethylene Brassylate compare to Habanolide?
A: Both are macrocyclic musks but they have distinct characters. Ethylene Brassylate is cleaner, sweeter, and more powdery with a transparent skin-like quality. Habanolide is warmer, slightly more animalic, and carries a subtle civet-like nuance. They are highly complementary and are frequently blended together to build fuller, more complex musk bases.
Where Can You Safely Use Ethylene Brassylate?
Discover how Ethylene Brassylate performs across different applications—rated for safety, stability, and effectiveness.
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