✦ Primary co-emulsifier and viscosity builder for oil-in-water creams, lotions, and body milks.
✦ Imparts a smooth, velvety skin feel and improves spreadability across all emulsion types.
✦ Functions as a natural opacifier, giving emulsions a clean pearlescent white appearance.
✦ Derived from vegetable-source glycerol and stearic acid — suitable for vegan formulations.
✦ Effective thickener and stabilizer in body butters, hair conditioning masks, and balms.
✦ Non-ionic and compatible with a wide range of cosmetic actives, surfactants, and preservatives.
✦ Forms a light occlusive layer on skin that reduces transepidermal moisture loss.

Glyceryl Stearate GMS-AS is a monoglyceride ester produced by the direct esterification of glycerol with stearic acid, most commonly derived from vegetable-based palm or soy feedstocks. It has been a cornerstone of cosmetic formulation for over five decades, recognized globally as a reliable, mild, and high-performing emulsifier base. It appears as white to off-white waxy flakes or beads with a faint fatty odor and melts cleanly into warm oil phases, making it easy to handle in both small-batch and industrial production environments.

What makes Glyceryl Stearate particularly valuable is its dual function as both a co-emulsifier and a skin-feel modifier. With a low HLB value of approximately 3.8, it is lipophilic by nature and works synergistically with higher-HLB primary emulsifiers such as PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, or BTMS-50 to create stable, elegant emulsions. It thickens the oil phase, improves overall emulsion consistency, contributes pearlescence, and delivers a non-greasy velvet-like finish that elevates the sensory profile of finished products.

Bio Shop Pakistan supplies cosmetic-grade Glyceryl Stearate GMS-AS suitable for independent beauty formulators, professional cosmetic chemists, soap makers, and DIY skincare brands across Pakistan.

INCI Name : Glyceryl Stearate
Chemical Name : Glycerol Monostearate; 1-Octadecanoylglycerol
CAS Number : 31566-31-1
Molecular Formula : C21H42O4
Appearance : White to off-white waxy flakes or beads
Odor : Faint fatty, waxy odor
pH (1% solution) : 5.5 – 7.0 (measured in finished emulsion)
Solubility : Insoluble in water; soluble in hot oils, ethanol, and isopropyl myristate
Specific Gravity : 0.97 – 0.99 g/cm³ (at 60°C, melted state)
Flash Point : >150°C
HLB Value : 3.8 (non-self-emulsifying grade)
Recommended Use Level : 1% – 5% in emulsions; up to 10% in anhydrous systems
Type : Non-ionic co-emulsifier, thickener, skin-conditioning agent, opacifier
Shelf Life : 24 months in original sealed packaging under recommended storage

Skincare (Creams, Serums, Lotions) : ★★★★★
Glyceryl Stearate is the cornerstone ingredient for face creams, body lotions, and moisturizing emulsions of all textures. Use at 2–5% alongside a primary high-HLB emulsifier for smooth, stable, and elegantly textured results.

Haircare (Shampoo, Conditioner, Masks) : ★★★★☆
It performs well in conditioning creams and deep treatment masks as a thickener and slip enhancer. Add at 1–3% in the heated oil phase of conditioning formulas to improve detangling and surface smoothness.

Soap Making (Cold Process, Melt and Pour) : ★★☆☆☆
Glyceryl Stearate is not a standard soap-making ingredient as it does not saponify effectively in cold process. It can be added to melt-and-pour bases at 1–2% as a skin-feel additive but contributes minimal functional value in lye-based soap.

Body Care (Scrubs, Butters, Balms) : ★★★★☆
It serves as an excellent thickener and structure agent in body butters and semi-solid balms. Use at 3–8% in anhydrous or water-light formulas to add body, improve skin slip, and create a luxurious texture on application.

Functional Cosmetics (Deodorants, Sunscreen, Baby Care) : ★★★★☆
Suitable for cream-style deodorants and sunscreen emulsions as a thickener and emulsion stabilizer. In baby care lotions, keep usage at 1–2% to ensure gentle, well-tolerated formulas appropriate for delicate skin.

When I formulate with Glyceryl Stearate, I always position it as a co-emulsifier rather than a primary one. On its own, its HLB of 3.8 is far too low to stabilize an oil-in-water system — it needs a high-HLB partner to perform. My preferred pairing is 2–3% Glyceryl Stearate combined with 1.5–2% PEG-100 Stearate or Polysorbate 60. This combination consistently delivers both excellent emulsion stability and a luxurious, non-greasy skin finish that customers love. I also treat the Glyceryl Stearate percentage as a texture dial — increasing it toward 4–5% gives me a noticeably richer, denser cream without needing additional fatty alcohols.

ADVANCED TIP: To achieve a true pearlescent body lotion with outstanding long-term stability, heat both water and oil phases separately to 75–80°C, then disperse 3% Glyceryl Stearate and 2% Cetyl Alcohol together into the oil phase until fully melted. Combine phases using a high-shear mixer and cool with continuous stirring to 40°C before introducing any heat-sensitive actives. This two-thickener approach produces a uniformly pearl-white lotion that maintains texture and stability across multiple freeze-thaw cycles.

Normal Skin : ★★★★★ — Enhances emulsion texture without disrupting the skin's natural balance, ideal for everyday moisturizers.
Dry Skin : ★★★★★ — Forms a light occlusive barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss and relieves surface dryness effectively.
Oily Skin : ★★★☆☆ — May feel slightly heavy in concentrations above 3%; keep at 1–2% and pair with lightweight emollients.
Combination : ★★★★☆ — Works well in lightweight lotions that target dry zones without overloading oilier areas of the face.
Sensitive Skin : ★★★★☆ — Non-ionic, fragrance-free, and generally well tolerated; suitable for gentle, minimal formulations.
Mature Skin : ★★★★★ — Supports barrier function and improves delivery of anti-aging actives within emulsion systems.
Acne-Prone : ★★★☆☆ — Moderate comedogenic potential at higher levels; keep at 1–2% and combine with non-comedogenic oils only.

CONCEPT 1: Nourishing Daily Face Cream
Usage Level : 3%
Key Ingredients: PEG-100 Stearate (2%), Sweet Almond Oil (8%), Niacinamide (4%), Allantoin (0.5%)
Result : A stable, creamy everyday moisturizer that hydrates, brightens, and visibly smooths the skin surface over time.

CONCEPT 2: Intensive Hair Conditioning Mask
Usage Level : 2%
Key Ingredients: BTMS-50 (4%), Argan Oil (5%), Panthenol (3%), Hydrolyzed Keratin (2%)
Result : A rich cream conditioning mask that deeply nourishes, detangles, and restores shine to dry or chemically treated hair.

CONCEPT 3: Whipped Body Butter Balm
Usage Level : 5%
Key Ingredients: Shea Butter (40%), Fractionated Coconut Oil (20%), Cetyl Alcohol (3%), Vitamin E (1%)
Result : A semi-solid whipped body balm that melts on contact, leaving skin deeply moisturized with a clean, non-greasy finish.

INCI Declared : Yes — required on all EU and international cosmetic product labels
EU Cosmetics Reg : Permitted — not listed in Annex II, III, IV, V, or VI; no restrictions or concentration limits apply
Rinse-Off Limit : No limit established; typical use range 1–5%
Leave-On Limit : No limit established; typical use range 1–5%
Allergen Alert : No — not a listed cosmetic contact allergen under EU Regulation 1223/2009
Skin Safety : Safe at recommended levels; well tolerated across most skin types and formulation systems
Eye Area Use : Use with caution — avoid concentrations above 2% in dedicated eye area products
Ingestion : Not for internal use
Pregnancy Use : Considered safe for topical cosmetic use; consult physician if uncertainty exists
Child Safety : Safe for baby care formulations at 1–2%; always use diluted in mild emulsion systems
Ventilation : Not required when handling in solid flake or bead form at room temperature
Storage : Cool, dry place away from direct heat and sunlight; reseal tightly after every use
Container : HDPE or glass preferred; avoid prolonged contact with reactive metals or moisture

⚠️ Glyceryl Stearate derived from palm-based sources may not be acceptable for certain certified organic or palm-free formulations. Confirm raw material sourcing with your supplier if certification compliance is required.

Working pH Range : 4.5 – 7.5
Heat Stability : Stable; melt fully into oil phase at 65–75°C; avoid sustained exposure above 85°C
Freeze-Thaw Stable : Yes — emulsions prepared with GMS-AS generally demonstrate good freeze-thaw performance
Emulsion Type : O/W as co-emulsifier with high-HLB partner; W/O at elevated levels with low-HLB system
Emulsification Phase: Hot — must be fully melted into oil phase before combining with water phase above 65°C
Compatible With : High-HLB emulsifiers (PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60), fatty alcohols (Cetyl, Cetearyl), silicones, plant oils, glycerin, panthenol
Incompatible With : Strong mineral acids and strong alkalis at pH extremes; high-electrolyte systems at elevated salt concentrations may reduce emulsion stability
Oxidation Risk : Low — ester structure is inherently stable; add Vitamin E at 0.1% as precautionary antioxidant in oil-rich formulations
Discoloration Risk : None — remains white and visually stable under normal formulation and storage conditions
Formulation Notes : Always melt GMS-AS completely into the oil phase before combining with water phase. Incomplete melting causes graininess or lumpy texture in the finished emulsion that cannot be corrected after cooling.

Q: What does GMS-AS mean and how is it different from Glyceryl Stearate SE?
A: GMS-AS refers to standard cosmetic-grade Glyceryl Stearate in its non-self-emulsifying form. The SE grade contains added sodium or potassium stearate soap that allows it to emulsify on its own, while GMS-AS requires a secondary high-HLB emulsifier partner to form and stabilize an emulsion.

Q: Can I use Glyceryl Stearate as the only emulsifier in a lotion?
A: No. With an HLB of approximately 3.8, Glyceryl Stearate is too lipophilic to stabilize an oil-in-water emulsion independently. It must always be paired with a high-HLB primary emulsifier such as PEG-100 Stearate or Polysorbate 60 to achieve a stable, homogenous lotion or cream.

Q: At what temperature should I add Glyceryl Stearate to my batch?
A: Add it directly to the oil phase and heat to 70–75°C until it is completely melted and transparent. Adding it cold or to a water phase will cause incomplete dispersion, resulting in grainy texture or visible flake particles in the cooled product.

Q: Is Glyceryl Stearate safe for sensitive skin and baby formulations?
A: Yes, when used at 1–2%, Glyceryl Stearate is gentle, non-ionic, and well tolerated on sensitive and baby skin. It contains no known cosmetic allergens and carries no ethylene oxide derivatives, making it a preferred mild emulsifier choice for gentle, low-irritation formulations.

Q: How does Glyceryl Stearate compare to Emulsifying Wax NF as an alternative?
A: Emulsifying Wax NF is a complete self-emulsifying system capable of forming stable emulsions alone at 3–6%, while Glyceryl Stearate always requires a high-HLB co-emulsifier. Glyceryl Stearate offers a cleaner vegetable-derived profile and a lighter, more elegant skin feel, making it better suited for premium formulations, while Emulsifying Wax NF offers greater simplicity and robustness for beginner formulators.