✦ Natural absolute extracted from Evernia prunastri lichen — the defining ingredient of the chypre and fougère fragrance families
✦ Delivers a deep, damp, forest-floor accord with earthy, woody, and subtly animalic complexity no synthetic can fully replicate
✦ Functions as a powerful base note fixative and blending anchor, extending the tenacity of an entire fragrance composition
✦ Iconic ingredient in legendary perfumes including Chanel No. 5, Miss Dior, Aramis, and Drakkar Noir
✦ Subject to IFRA 51st Amendment restrictions due to sensitizing atranol content — precise usage rates are essential
✦ Soluble in alcohol and dipropylene glycol — ideal for alcoholic fine fragrance and attar formulation
✦ 100% natural, vegan, and cruelty-free — no animal-derived components

Oakmoss Absolute is a natural aromatic extract derived from Evernia prunastri, a lichen found growing on oak tree bark across the forests of Europe and North Africa. Known by its French name Mousse de Chêne, oakmoss absolute has been a foundational ingredient in classical perfumery for over a century, forming the mossy backbone of the chypre and fougère fragrance families. The absolute is obtained by solvent extraction of the dried lichen, yielding a dark, richly complex material with deeply earthy, woody, and animalic facets. In cosmetic and fragrance formulations, oakmoss absolute is used as a base note fixative, blending anchor, and character-defining ingredient in fine fragrances, attars, and oriental compositions. Its naturally occurring atranol and chloratranol content means it is subject to strict IFRA regulations, requiring precise dosage. Bio Shop Pakistan supplies cosmetic-grade oakmoss absolute to Pakistani DIY perfumers, professional formulators, and attar makers seeking authentic classical fragrance materials.

FIELD 1 — Key Features

✦ Natural absolute extracted from Evernia prunastri lichen — the defining ingredient of the chypre and fougère fragrance families
✦ Delivers a deep, damp, forest-floor accord with earthy, woody, and subtly animalic complexity no synthetic can fully replicate
✦ Functions as a powerful base note fixative and blending anchor, extending the tenacity of an entire fragrance composition
✦ Iconic ingredient in legendary perfumes including Chanel No. 5, Miss Dior, Aramis, and Drakkar Noir
✦ Subject to IFRA 51st Amendment restrictions due to sensitizing atranol content — precise usage rates are essential
✦ Soluble in alcohol and dipropylene glycol — ideal for alcoholic fine fragrance and attar formulation
✦ 100% natural, vegan, and cruelty-free — no animal-derived components

FIELD 2 — About

Oakmoss Absolute has been harvested and used in perfumery since the 16th century, when it was a key ingredient in the classic Cyprus powders and pomades of European courts. The lichen Evernia prunastri grows slowly on oak tree bark in the cool, humid forests of France, the former Yugoslavia, Morocco, and the United States. Extraction involves washing the dried lichen with hydrocarbon solvents to produce a concrete, which is then washed with ethanol to yield the dark, viscous absolute. Its role in shaping the entire chypre genre of perfumery — named after Cyprus — makes it one of the most historically significant raw materials in the fragrance world.

What makes oakmoss absolute irreplaceable is its unmatched olfactory complexity. It contains a rich mixture of organic compounds including evernin, methyl everninate, atranol, chloratranol, and various orcinol derivatives, each contributing a different facet to its mossy, earthy, and almost leathery character. No single aroma chemical or synthetic mossy blend can fully replicate the depth and naturalness that oakmoss absolute brings to a composition. Even at extremely low concentrations — well below its IFRA limit — it grounds a fragrance, adds transparency to woody notes, and gives chypre accords their characteristic cool, shadowy forest quality.

Bio Shop Pakistan supplies cosmetic-grade Oakmoss Absolute suitable for professional perfumers, attar makers, DIY fragrance enthusiasts, and advanced home formulators seeking authentic classical materials.

SCENT DESCRIPTION : Oakmoss Absolute opens with a damp, cool impression of forest floor and wet bark, as though you are standing beneath oak trees after rainfall. The heart reveals a complex mossy earthiness that is simultaneously green, woody, and faintly animalic — rich without being heavy. A subtle leathery undertone emerges over time, giving the material a lived-in, ancient quality that feels both natural and deeply sophisticated. At full dry-down it settles into a warm, resinous, almost marine-mineral base that clings persistently to skin and fabric.

NOTE POSITION : Base (occasionally used to anchor mid notes)

FRAGRANCE FAMILY : Chypre · Fougère · Woody Earthy

FACETS : Mossy · Earthy · Woody · Leathery · Animalic

TENACITY : Very High — 24 to 72 hours on blotter, 12 to 24 hours on skin

SILLAGE : Medium — intimate and close-wearing, projects softly but clings deeply to surfaces and fabric

Chemical Name : Evernia prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract — complex mixture of evernin, methyl everninate, atranol, chloratranol, and orcinol derivatives
CAS Number : 90028-68-5
Synonyms : Evernia prunastri Absolute · Mousse de Chêne · Oakmoss Extract · Oak Moss Absolute
Purity : 100% (undiluted natural absolute — verify with current batch CoA)
Appearance : Dark olive-green to brown viscous liquid or semi-solid at room temperature
Odor Threshold : Approximately 0.001 ppm (extremely detectable at very low concentrations)
Solubility : Fully soluble in ethanol and DPG · Partially soluble in fixed oils · Insoluble in water
Specific Gravity : 0.96 – 1.02 at 20°C (verify with supplier CoA)
Flash Point : Above 100°C (verify with current SDS)
Type : Natural Absolute

Fine Fragrance : ★★★★★
Oakmoss Absolute is the structural cornerstone of chypre and fougère fine fragrances. At IFRA-compliant rates it provides a mossy, earthy base that no synthetic mossy accord fully reproduces. Use it to anchor bergamot-labdanum-vetiver structures and to give any fragrance a classical, old-world character.

Attar & Oriental Blending : ★★★★★
In attar formulation, oakmoss absolute integrates beautifully with oud, sandalwood, vetiver, and labdanum, adding forest-floor depth to woody and resinous compositions. Pakistani and Middle Eastern formulators use it to bridge green and animalic facets in complex oriental bases. Even at trace concentrations it transforms a flat woody accord into something dimensional and ancient.

Functional Fragrance : ★★★
Oakmoss can be used in home fragrance, fabric care, and rinse-off products at appropriate rates. Its tenacity makes it effective in reed diffusers and wax melts where prolonged release is desired. Skin-contact functional products require strict adherence to IFRA limits due to sensitization risk.

Cosmetics : ★★
Use in cosmetics is heavily restricted due to atranol and chloratranol sensitization concerns. It is not suitable for lip products, eye-area products, or high leave-on applications. Where used, it must remain within IFRA Category limits and is best replaced by vetted synthetic mossy materials in mass-market cosmetic formulations.

Home Fragrance : ★★★★
In candles, reed diffusers, and incense where there is no direct skin contact, oakmoss absolute performs excellently. It adds naturalistic forest depth to diffuser bases and blends well with cedarwood, fir needle, and labdanum in home fragrance contexts. No IFRA skin-contact limits apply to these non-skin applications.

RECOMMENDED USAGE RATES

EDP (Eau de Parfum) : 0.05% – 0.10% of finished fragrance concentrate
EDT (Eau de Toilette) : 0.03% – 0.08%
Body Lotion / Cream : 0.01% maximum (IFRA Category 5A)
Shampoo / Body Wash : 0.01% maximum (rinse-off, IFRA Category 9)
Candle : 0.05% – 0.3% in finished wax (no skin contact limit)
Reed Diffuser : 0.1% – 0.5% in diffuser base (no skin contact limit)
Soap (tablet) : 0.01% – 0.02% maximum (IFRA Category 9)

IFRA 51ST AMENDMENT LIMITS (Evernia prunastri Absolute)

Category 1 (Lip and oral) : 0.001%
Category 2 (Deodorant spray) : 0.001%
Category 4 (Fine fragrance) : 0.1%
Category 5A (Body lotion) : 0.01%
Category 5B (Face cream) : 0.01%
Category 7A (Rinse-off hair) : 0.01%
Category 9 (Rinse-off skin) : 0.01%
Category 11A (Fabric, textile) : 0.01%
Category 12 (Non-skin contact) : No restriction stated

⚠️ Oakmoss Absolute contains atranol and chloratranol, classified as potent contact allergens. Always work within IFRA limits. Patch test recommended for any leave-on formulation.
⚠️ Not suitable for products used around eyes, lips, or on infant skin under any circumstances.
⚠️ IFRA limits are based on the percentage of oakmoss absolute in the finished product — not in the fragrance concentrate alone. Calculate accordingly.

METHOD 1 — Chypre Base Construction
Dissolve oakmoss absolute in a small quantity of perfumer's alcohol or DPG before adding to your blend. Build a classical chypre base by combining oakmoss (0.05–0.1%), labdanum absolute (1–3%), bergamot (5–10%), and patchouli (1–2%). This three-way accord forms the skeleton on which rose, jasmine, or fruity notes can be layered above.

METHOD 2 — Attar Anchoring
In oil-based attar work, add oakmoss absolute at 0.1–0.3% of the total oil blend (in non-skin-contact attar used as incense or diffuser material). It bridges oud and sandalwood with green, earthy transparency. For skin-contact attars, respect IFRA limits strictly.

METHOD 3 — Trace Naturalistic Grounding
Even at 0.02–0.05% in an alcoholic fragrance, oakmoss absolute adds a perceptible naturalistic depth that lifts synthetic constructions. Use it as a secret trace note under cedarwood, vetiver, or iso E super constructions to give the impression of genuine forest-floor naturalness.

BEST PAIRINGS

Bergamot → Creates the classic chypre opening — fresh, green, and structured
Labdanum Absolute → Deepens the animalic-resinous quality and extends tenacity dramatically
Vetiver → Adds smoky, rooty earthiness that harmonises with the mossy facets
Patchouli → Complements the earthy depth and adds warmth to the mossy accord
Cedarwood Atlas → Bridges the woody and mossy facets with dry, pencil-shaving warmth
Iso E Super → Amplifies the woody-mossy presence and adds diffusive transparency
Rose Absolute → Classic chypre pairing — floral softness over the mossy-earthy base

AVOID
Oakmoss absolute in concentrations above IFRA limits in any leave-on product.
Avoid combining with other known sensitizers (Peru Balsam, cinnamon bark, HICC) in the same formulation without careful safety assessment.

When I work with Oakmoss Absolute, I am handling a piece of perfumery history. This is the material that made chypre possible — that gave Coty Chypre in 1917 its soul, and that haunts the great classical masculines of the 20th century. Even today, when IFRA limits have reduced its permitted use to fractions of a percent, a trace of genuine oakmoss absolute at 0.05% transforms any composition in a way that the best synthetic moss replacements — for all their technical achievements — cannot quite match. It does not announce itself; it settles beneath everything else and makes the whole fragrance feel older, deeper, and more real.

ADVANCED TIP : To maximise the olfactory return on your oakmoss absolute under current IFRA restrictions, pre-dilute it to a 10% solution in perfumer's alcohol and let it macerate for 48 hours before use. This gentle dilution opens up the material, releasing lighter volatile facets that are often masked in the thick undiluted absolute. When added to your composition from this pre-dilution, the oakmoss integrates more evenly throughout the structure rather than sitting heavily at the base — giving you better diffusion of the mossy character without exceeding your usage limit.

Physical State : Dark viscous liquid or semi-solid — may require gentle warming to pour
Skin Safety : Strong sensitizer — atranol and chloratranol content. Always stay within IFRA limits. Avoid skin contact with undiluted material. Not suitable for lip or eye-area products.
Eye Contact : Rinse immediately with water for 15 minutes. Seek medical attention if irritation persists. Do not formulate into eye-area products.
Ingestion : Not for consumption. If swallowed, seek immediate medical attention.
Ventilation : Work in a well-ventilated space. Prolonged inhalation of vapours from heated or undiluted material should be avoided.
Storage : Store in a tightly sealed dark glass or aluminium container away from direct sunlight, heat, and humidity. Keep below 20°C for optimal preservation.
Shelf Life : 2 to 3 years when stored correctly. Older material may thicken and develop slightly sharper facets but remains usable if within specification.
Container : Dark glass (amber or cobalt) or aluminium — avoid plastic for long-term storage
Flammability : Flash point above 100°C — low flammability under normal storage conditions. Keep away from open flames when heating to aid pouring.

Q: What does oakmoss absolute smell like?
A: It smells like the forest floor after rain — damp, mossy, earthy, and faintly woody with a cool, almost leathery undertone. It is deep, natural, and unmistakably green.

Q: Why is oakmoss absolute restricted by IFRA?
A: It contains atranol and chloratranol, two compounds identified as potent contact allergens. IFRA limits their presence in finished products to very low concentrations to protect consumers from sensitization reactions.

Q: Can I use oakmoss absolute in an attar I will wear on skin?
A: Yes, but you must calculate and stay within the IFRA 51st Amendment limits for the relevant product category. For a body-contact attar in oil form, the limit is 0.01% oakmoss in the finished product.

Q: At such low IFRA limits, is oakmoss absolute still worth using in perfumery?
A: Yes. Its odour threshold is extremely low and even 0.05–0.1% in an EDP concentrate delivers a clearly perceptible mossy, earthy character. A little goes a very long way with this material.

Q: How does real oakmoss absolute compare to synthetic mossy replacements like Evernyl or Seaweed Accord?
A: Oakmoss absolute has far greater complexity and naturalistic depth than any single synthetic replacement. Synthetic moss materials replicate individual facets but lack the full-spectrum earthy, leathery, animalic, and green character of the real absolute. For classical chypre structures, the absolute — even at very low rates — remains preferred by serious perfumers.