Evernia prunastri · Mousse de Chêne · CAS 90028-68-5
Jangal ki kaai (جنگلی کائی) — the foundational ingredient of chypre and fougere perfumery. A lichen absolute of extraordinary fixative power: one blotter strip holds its mossy character for 7–14 days. Used from Fougere Royale (1882) to Mitsouko. IFRA-restricted, EU-allergen listed. Complete scientific, formulation, and Pakistani professional reference — including Evernyl synthetic alternative.
CAS 90028-68-5
Identifier
~1–5 ppb
Odour Threshold
IFRA Restricted
51st Amendment
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Quick Reference
At a Glance
Common Names
Oakmoss · Oakmoss Absolute · Mousse de Chêne · Lichen Prunastri Extract · Oak Moss
RESTRICTED — Max 0.1% in finished leave-on product (Cat 4). Atranol & chloroatranol each <100 ppm in extract required. Back-calculate for compound use.
Halal Status
✓ Halal — Natural lichen extract, no animal inputs, no ethanol residue. Extraction solvents (hexane, ethanol) fully removed. Evernyl: synthetic, halal by consensus.
Odour Character
Earthy, mossy, green, leathery, damp bark, woody, vaguely marine · Jangal ki kaai (جنگلی کائی) · Mitti ki khushbu after barish — but darker, more complex
Odour Threshold
~1–5 ppb — exceptionally potent · 1 blotter strip retains character for 7–14 days · Extremely low cost-in-use
EU Allergen Status
⚠ LISTED — EU Cosmetics Reg. 1223/2009 Annex III. Declare above 0.001% (leave-on) or 0.01% (rinse-off) as "Evernia Prunastri Extract"
Natural Occurrence
Evernia prunastri lichen on oak bark · Balkans, France, Morocco, Atlas Mountains · Manual hand-harvesting · FEMA 2795
Fragrance Families
Chypre (defining ingredient) · Fougere (core base) · Oriental · Green · Woody · Unisex depth-modifier across all families
Shelf Life (sealed)
3–5 years (Oakmoss absolute) · 5+ years (Evernyl pure) · Refrigerate after opening · Amber glass or dark HDPE required
Introduction
The Foundational Chypre Ingredient
Oakmoss — Evernia prunastri, the "Mousse de Chêne" of French perfumery — holds a singular and irreplaceable position in the history of fragrance. It is the architectural cornerstone of two of perfumery's most enduring olfactive families: the chypre, codified by François Coty in his landmark 1917 perfume of the same name, and the fougere, which traces its origin to Paul Parquet's epoch-defining Fougère Royale (Houbigant, 1882) — widely regarded as the world's first modern synthetic perfume. Without Oakmoss, these two families, which together account for the majority of fine fragrance created during the 20th century, would simply not exist in the forms we know. The classic chypre accord — bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss — is one of the most studied, admired, and replicated structures in perfumery, and the fougere template — lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss — remains the underlying architecture of most successful men's fragrances to this day.
The lichen Evernia prunastri grows as a short, bushy, antler-shaped thallus on the bark of oak and other deciduous trees across the temperate mountainous forests of Europe and North Africa — particularly the Balkans, France, and the Moroccan Atlas Mountains. Its absolute is obtained by solvent extraction of the dried lichen: first a dark green concrete via hexane, then re-extracted with ethanol to yield the finished absolute, a viscous, dark green to brown material of extraordinary olfactory complexity and tenacity. One test strip carries its mossy character for one to two weeks. The extract contains over 170 identified compounds, dominated by depside molecules — ester-linked phenolic acids — including atranorin, evernic acid, and their hydrolysis products methyl atratate and ethyl orsellinate, which together create the characteristic earthy, green, leathery mossy signature.
For Pakistan's aromatic community, Oakmoss offers a profound creative opportunity. Its deep, earthy, forest-floor character resonates with well-established Pakistani fragrance sensibilities — the cool earthiness of Mitti ki khushbu, the woody depth of Oud, the green forest freshness of Khas (vetiver). A trace of Oakmoss 10% DPG in an oud-based attar elevates its character from provincial to cosmopolitan. A properly formulated chypre accord using Bio Shop™ materials bridges Pakistani aromatic tradition with the global niche fragrance aesthetic increasingly sought by urban Pakistani consumers aged 25–40. Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks both IFRA-compliant Oakmoss 10% DPG and Evernyl (synthetic alternative, no restriction) to give formulators complete flexibility.
Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note
Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks three Oakmoss-related materials: (1) Oakmoss 10% DPG — IFRA-compliant, low-atranol grade (atranol + chloroatranol each <100 ppm), the professional standard for chypre/fougere/attar applications. (2) Evernyl pure (CAS 4707-47-5) — white crystalline powder, no IFRA restriction, the preferred synthetic mossy character material. (3) Evernyl 10% DPG — liquid, ready to weigh for compound work. All materials supplied with lot documentation. Visit bioshop.pk/products/oakmoss-10-in-dpg for current stock and pricing.
Molecular Identity
Chemical Identification
INCI NameEvernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract
CAS Number90028-68-5 (extract) · 9000-50-4 (absolute/resinoid)
EINECS / EC No.289-861-3
FEMA NumberFEMA 2795 — historical GRAS; no longer in active food use due to allergen data
SynonymsMousse de Chêne · Oakmoss Absolute · Lichen Prunastri Extract
Botanical SourceEvernia prunastri (L.) Ach. — family Parmeliaceae (Usneaceae)
Chemical ClassComplex natural lichen extract; depside-rich mixture (170+ compounds)
Oakmoss materials divide clearly into two primary categories: natural IFRA-compliant absolute and synthetic Evernyl alternative. Understanding which grade to use — and in what application — is essential for Pakistani formulators navigating both safety compliance and commercial formulation quality.
Dark green absolute · 10% in DPG · HPLC verified · Sp. Gr. 0.98–1.08
"The professional standard for chypre, fougere, and attar formulation. Natural lichen complexity with regulatory compliance. Bio Shop™ Pakistan primary Oakmoss stock. Blotter character holds 2–5 days. Use at 0.05–2% of 10% DPG solution in compound, subject to finished product IFRA calculation."
Synthetic Substitute · No IFRA Restriction
Evernyl (Pure & 10% DPG)
CAS 4707-47-5 · Methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate · Givaudan / China
GC Purity
≥98%
White to off-white crystalline powder or 10% DPG liquid · No atranol
"Best single-molecule approximation of Oakmoss's dry, powdery, phenolic facets. No IFRA restriction — use freely at 0.5–10% in compound. Lacks the full green-earthy complexity and marine depth of natural Oakmoss. Ideal for leave-on products and fougere bases where IFRA limits apply. Blotter holds 7–10+ days."
⚠ Training / Reference Only — Not For Commercial Use
Traditional Oakmoss Absolute
Pre-refining · Atranol >100 ppm · Non-IFRA compliant · Study purposes only
Atranol Level
>100 ppm
Full-complexity natural absolute but NOT IFRA compliant for product use
"The historically used, unrefined absolute with the full natural complexity that defined 20th-century chypres. Used by perfumers today only for olfactory education and reference — to understand what has been lost and what we are working to reconstruct. Cannot legally be included in cosmetic products for sale in the EU, and should not be used per IFRA standards."
Weak character fading in <1 hr · No atranol data · Possible patchouli sub
"Pakistani market adulterants: over-diluted DPG solutions (stated 10%, actual 2–5%), Patchouli/Vetiver blends sold as 'Oakmoss character', or Evernyl sold as Oakmoss absolute. Red flags: pale colour, weak mossy character fading within hours, no IFRA/HPLC certificate. Genuine 10% DPG holds mossy character for 2–3 days minimum."
Dosage Science
Concentration Behaviour
Oakmoss operates at two distinct levels simultaneously: as an invisible-yet-essential modifier at trace levels, and as a dominant characterising note at higher concentrations. Its detection threshold of 1–5 ppb means even vanishingly small amounts contribute meaningful depth and naturalness to a composition — well below any threshold of conscious recognition as "moss". The IFRA restriction (0.1% actual in finished leave-on product) is the defining formulation parameter: calculate backward from your finished product to determine the maximum allowable level in your compound. Note: all levels below refer to actual Oakmoss content — when using 10% DPG solution, multiply by 10 for solution percentage.
<0.01% actual in finished productSubliminal Depth
Virtually imperceptible as 'Oakmoss' but adds subconscious naturalness, texture, and fixative quality. Ideal as a fixative booster in home fragrance, candles, and any base where longevity is needed without identifiable moss character
0.01–0.05% actual (leave-on)Subtle Earthy Modifier
Subtle earthy depth with naturalness boost. Experienced noses detect a 'complexity' or 'quality' rather than identifying moss. Ideal for fine fragrance compounds, body lotion fragrances, and chypre/fougere accord building as the naturalising base layer
0.05–0.1% actual (IFRA leave-on max)Clear Mossy-Earthy Character
Distinct earthy-mossy modifier clearly perceivable in the composition; standard chypre/fougere character. This is the IFRA Category 4 maximum for leave-on products. Attar compounds applied in small dabs can use higher levels in the compound with equivalent finished-product compliance
0.1–0.5% actual (attar / home frag)Full Mossy Dominant
Full Oakmoss character — deeply earthy, green, mossy, leathery. Suitable for DPG-based attars (small dab application), home fragrance compounds, room sprays, and candles where IFRA on-skin limits do not apply. This is the most commercially expressive range for Pakistani attar application
0.5–2% actual (home frag concentrate)Intensely Mossy — Home/Bakhoor Only
Powerfully mossy, potentially overwhelming. Suitable only for home fragrance concentrates, bakhoor blends, reed diffuser bases, and candle compounds where the material will be diffused rather than applied to skin. Not for any skin-contact application above IFRA limits
Above 2% actualOverdose — Not Recommended
Excessively loud, unbalanced, lichen-dominant. The mossy character overwhelms rather than anchors; the slightly rancid, cardboard off-notes of degraded depsides can emerge at these extreme levels. Use only as a note study reference. Evernyl at high levels is a better path to mossy concentration effects
Sensory Analysis
Olfactory Evolution
Opening · 0–5 min
Sharp Green Phenolic
The first encounter with Oakmoss absolute is immediately arresting: a deep, cool, forest-floor impression that is simultaneously green, earthy, leathery, and vaguely marine — as if gathering the bark of an ancient oak after a night of rain. There is a sharpness to the opening, a faintly phenolic, almost inky quality that recalls the tang of wet stone or the air inside a centuries-old library. Pakistani perfumers often compare this first impression to Mitti ki khushbu after barish — the scent of wet earth after rain — but with a darker, more complex, and far more tenacious character. In Pakistan's cooler months (October to February), this opening develops particularly beautifully on skin, with the moderate temperatures allowing the full complexity to emerge without the heat-accelerated volatilisation that can flatten the opening impression in summer.
Heart · 5–30 min
Earthy Forest Depth
The heart development of Oakmoss is where its architectural value becomes fully apparent. The sharp phenolic opening softens into a deeply earthy, green, leathery, and damp-bark character — the classic 'jangal ki mitti' (forest earth) impression that Steffen Arctander and subsequent perfumers identified as the material's defining commercial asset. At trace levels in a composition, this phase manifests as 'texture' or 'weight': a sense that the fragrance has a body and physical presence that purely synthetic materials struggle to achieve. This is precisely what Guerlain's Mitsouko, Dior's Miss Dior, and Chanel No. 19 captured — the feeling that the composition is rooted in something ancient and natural, not assembled from laboratory molecules alone. The heart is also where Oakmoss's synergy with Labdanum becomes most audible: together, the earthy-green moss and the amber-animalic resin create the classic chypre depth.
Dry-down · 30 min–2 hr
Creamy Powdery Moss
As the heart resolves, Oakmoss transitions to its most refined and intimate phase: a soft, creamy, powdery-mossy character with an increasingly woody, warm, and slightly sweet quality. This is the phase most prized by Pakistani attar connoisseurs — the dry-down note resembles aged chandan (sandalwood) mixed with jungle flora, a deeply personal and sophisticated aromatic impression. The skin chemistry interaction is central here: Oakmoss components, particularly the depside-derived acids, bind to keratin proteins in the outer skin layers and are released slowly as the skin warms and moistens, creating the characteristic 'bloom' effect where the fragrance seems to intensify and personalise over time. In DPG-based attars, the non-volatile carrier base extends this phase considerably, maintaining the mossy character on skin for 8–12 hours and on fabric for significantly longer.
Long Base · 4 hr → fabric days
Fabric Ghost · Extraordinary Tenacity
Oakmoss's most remarkable olfactory property is its extraordinary tenacity: the material persists on fabric for days to weeks, and even on skin its mossy character is perceivable at 4–8 hours well beyond what any other natural ingredient achieves at equivalent use levels. On a dry blotter strip, genuine IFRA-compliant Oakmoss 10% DPG retains its mossy character for 2–5 days; pure Evernyl holds for 7–10+ days. This exceptional substantivity operates through two mechanisms: high-molecular-weight depside compounds and triterpenes physically retard evaporation of more volatile materials (fixative function), and certain Oakmoss components form weak non-covalent associations with fabric and skin substrates, enabling slow release over extended periods. For Pakistani attar makers, this fixative power is commercially invaluable: a trace of Oakmoss in an oud attar can extend the composition's perceivable longevity from 4 hours to 8 or more.
Three production-ready formulas from the Bio Shop™ Pakistan reference document. All ingredients available at bioshop.pk. Formula 1 is a DPG attar (no alcohol). Formula 2 is a chypre-inspired EDP compound using Perfume Premix as the sole alcohol base, with full IFRA back-calculation. Formula 3 is a masculine fougere body lotion compound with IFRA-compliant Oakmoss dosing verification.
Koh-e-Qamar · کوہِ قمر
Mountain Moon Attar · DPG-based, no alcohol · 100g batch · Roll-on dabba · Pakistani professional male, autumn/winter
Weigh all 10% DPG solutions first, then add essential oils, then DPG balance. Warm gently to 35°C and stir 30 minutes. Rest sealed 72 hours minimum before assessment; full character develops at 7 days. Longevity: 8–12 hours on skin. Oakmoss actual in attar: 8% × 10% = 0.8% — this is an attar (dabbed, small volume), not a leave-on lotion. The tiny volume applied per dab means real skin exposure is well within safe limits. Evernyl actual: 15% × 10% = 1.5% — no IFRA restriction on Evernyl.
Jangal ki Rani · جنگل کی رانی
Queen of the Forest EDP Compound · Perfume Premix base only · 100g compound · Feminine chypre · Urban educated women 28–45
⚠ IFRA Back-Calculation (Category 4 — EDP leave-on): Oakmoss actual in compound = 5% × 10% = 0.5%. At 20% compound in finished EDP: Oakmoss in finished product = 0.5% × 0.20 = 0.10% — exactly at IFRA Category 4 limit. Compliant. Do not increase compound ratio or Oakmoss level without recalculating. Evernyl actual in compound = 1.0%; in EDP = 0.2% — no IFRA restriction applies to Evernyl.
Koh-e-Noor · کوہِ نور
Masculine Fougere Body Lotion Compound · Use at 1% in 500g finished lotion · 100g compound · Urban men 25–45 · Pakistan & Gulf export
Add 5g compound (1% in lotion) to 495g standard lotion base (warm phase, 45°C, stir 10 minutes). For neutral-scented lotion base: BTMS-50 or Emulsifying Wax NF base. Cool to 40°C before adding compound. Performance: clean masculine fougere; Oakmoss character supported by Evernyl; 4–6 hour longevity on skin.
⚠ IFRA Back-Calculation (Category 4 — body lotion leave-on): Oakmoss actual in compound = 10% × 10% = 1.0%. At 1% compound in finished lotion: Oakmoss in lotion = 1.0% × 0.01 = 0.010% — well within IFRA limit of 0.1%. Evernyl actual in compound = 20% × 10% = 2.0%; in lotion = 0.02% — no IFRA restriction on Evernyl. EU export: declare "Evernia Prunastri Extract" if above 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on. At 0.01% it requires declaration on EU-market products.
Synergies
Classic Pairings
Oakmoss is architecturally connected to a specific network of materials that share its earthy, phenolic, or resinous character. The following pairings represent the most commercially proven and historically validated combinations for Pakistani formulation, drawn from the Bio Shop™ Pakistan reference document.
CAS 4707-47-5 · Methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate · No IFRA restriction
Aroma vs. Oakmoss
Drier, more powdery, more phenolic; less green-earthy depth and marine complexity; lacks animalic warmth. Bone-dry mossy character without the 'living forest' quality
Threshold / IFRA
~50–100 ppb (less potent) · ✅ No IFRA restriction · Not EU allergen listed · Consistent lot-to-lot
Use With Oakmoss
Primary combination: Evernyl provides the dry backbone; Oakmoss adds green living-forest complexity. Together they approach traditional Oakmoss character at compliant levels
Pakistan Application
Preferred for all leave-on products (lotion, cream) where Oakmoss IFRA limits are critical. Primary choice for fougere base reconstruction. Available at bioshop.pk/products/evernyl
Verdict: Essential companion to Oakmoss, not a replacement. Evernyl is the safety-compliant backbone; Oakmoss provides the irreplaceable natural complexity. Use both for best results in chypre/fougere formulation.
Treemoss (Evernia furfuracea)
Related Lichen Extract · More Resinous · Also IFRA-Restricted
Aroma vs. Oakmoss
Mossy-resinous with a faint pine-turpentine nuance; more resinous, slightly less green-leathery than Oakmoss; different character profile though superficially similar
Threshold / IFRA
~2–8 ppb · ⚠ Also IFRA Restricted · Combined IFRA limit with Oakmoss — use of both in the same formula requires combined back-calculation
Use With Oakmoss
Blending with Oakmoss requires careful combined IFRA back-calculation. IFRA treats them as a combined category — formulators must not simply add limits independently
Pakistan Application
Not stocked by Bio Shop™ Pakistan. Of academic interest only — the combined IFRA restrictions and availability issues make Treemoss less practical than the Oakmoss + Evernyl combination
Verdict: Avoid combining with Oakmoss unless IFRA combined limits are fully understood. For Pakistani formulators, the Oakmoss + Evernyl approach is simpler and better documented.
Labdanum (Cistus Resinoid)
Cistus ladaniferus Extract · Amber-Animalic-Earthy · Generally Permitted
Aroma vs. Oakmoss
Sweeter, more amber-resinous, animalic-earthy; lacks the green-mossy and leathery aspect of Oakmoss; much warmer, more amber-dominated base character
Threshold / IFRA
~50 ppb (less potent) · ✅ Generally permitted · Not EU listed as mandatory allergen · Available in 10% DPG at bioshop.pk
Use With Oakmoss
Classic chypre pairing: Oakmoss + Labdanum = the defining chypre base. Each amplifies the other's fixative power. Recommended ratio: 1% Oakmoss 10% DPG + 3% Labdanum 10% DPG in compound
Pakistan Application
Essential partner for chypre-inspired Pakistani attars. The Oakmoss-Labdanum combination in a DPG base with Bergamot EO creates an IFRA-compliant chypre accord accessible to Pakistani formulators
Verdict: The essential chypre partner, not a mossy substitute. Use Labdanum alongside Oakmoss to build the amber-earthy base of chypre accords; use it instead of Oakmoss only in amber-oriental formulations where no moss character is desired.
Smoky, earthy, woody, green — shares earthy character but from different chemical direction (sesquiterpene alcohols vs. depside phenolics); deeper smoke, less green-mossy, no leathery aspect
Threshold / IFRA
~20 ppb · ✅ Generally permitted · Not EU allergen listed · Excellent compatibility with all oriental materials · Deeply familiar in Pakistani attar tradition
Use With Oakmoss
Forest Floor Accord: 1% Oakmoss 10% DPG + 3% Vetiver EO = deep, smoky, green-earthy accord that far exceeds either alone. Add Patchouli EO for the complete forest-earth combination
Pakistan Application
Khas-based Oakmoss attars are highly accessible to Pakistani consumers familiar with vetiver and oud traditions. Positioning: 'Jungli Gulab' or 'Koh-e-Jangal' — bridging traditional and international niche aesthetics
Verdict: Strategic partner for creating uniquely Pakistani chypre-oriental accords. The Oakmoss-Vetiver combination fuses European forest-floor complexity with South Asian aromatic tradition, creating something genuinely distinctive for the Pakistani niche fragrance market.
Safety & Regulations
IFRA & Safety Overview
Educational summary of publicly available regulatory data as of 2024. Always consult the current IFRA Standards (51st Amendment, ifrafragrance.org), the ingredient Safety Data Sheet, RIFM Safety Database, and your regulatory advisor before commercial formulation. This document does not constitute regulatory or safety advice. IFRA limits apply to finished product concentration — always back-calculate from your target application.
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IFRA 51st Amendment — RESTRICTED
Oakmoss extracts (Evernia prunastri) are a Restricted ingredient under the IFRA 51st Amendment. The restriction is based on atranol and chloroatranol content — both must be below 100 ppm each in the extract used. For IFRA-compliant low-atranol grade, maximum permitted levels in finished product include: Category 4 (face cream, body lotion, EDP/EDT leave-on): 0.1%; Category 1 (lip products, massage): 0.002%; Category 2 (deodorant spray): 0.02%; Category 9 (rinse-off): 0.1%. Back-calculation mandatory: if compound is used at 5% in body lotion, max Oakmoss actual in compound = 0.1% ÷ 0.05 = 2.0%. Using 10% DPG solution at 20% in compound = 2% actual Oakmoss. Always verify per application category and compute from finished product backward.
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EU Allergen — LISTED (Mandatory Declaration)
Oakmoss extract (Evernia prunastri) is listed in Annex III of EU Regulation 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products. Products sold in the EU must declare "Evernia Prunastri Extract" on the ingredients label if present above 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products or 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products. EU Commission Regulation 2017/1410 additionally prohibits free atranol and chloroatranol in EU cosmetic products. For Pakistani domestic market products: EU allergen regulations do not legally apply, though following EU best practices is recommended for quality positioning and future export readiness. For Gulf export products: verify destination country requirements with a regulatory consultant.
✅
Pakistan DRAP & Halal — Fully Compliant
No current restriction under Drug Regulatory Authority of Pakistan (DRAP) cosmetics guidelines. Pakistani formulators for the domestic market should reference IFRA Standards as the global industry baseline even where not legally mandated. Halal status is confirmed: Oakmoss absolute is derived entirely from Evernia prunastri lichen — a natural fungus-algae symbiont growing on tree bark. No animal-origin materials, no alcohol fermentation, and no genetically modified inputs are involved. Extraction solvents (hexane, ethanol) are fully removed in processing, leaving no residual prohibited substances. Evernyl (synthetic alternative) is produced via petrochemical esterification with no animal or biological origin. Both are classified as halal by general Islamic scholarly standards for fragrance and cosmetic use.
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Dermal Sensitisation — Primary Safety Concern
The principal safety concern with Oakmoss absolute is dermal sensitisation potential. Atranol and chloroatranol, minor metabolites formed during extraction, are among the most potent contact allergens known to affect 1–2% of European populations at repeated high-level leave-on exposure. Acute oral toxicity is low. The IFRA restriction process was specifically designed to address sensitisation, not acute toxicity. IFRA-compliant low-atranol grade (<100 ppm each) significantly reduces sensitisation risk while preserving olfactory character. Additional precautions: avoid use in children's products; exclude from products intended for pregnant women (insufficient reproductive safety data); avoid eye-area applications; conduct patch testing for sensitive consumers. Evernyl contains no atranol and presents no corresponding sensitisation concern.
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Evernyl (Synthetic Alternative) — Unrestricted
Evernyl (CAS 4707-47-5), the primary synthetic substitute for Oakmoss's mossy character, is fully IFRA-compliant with no category restrictions. It is not listed as a mandatory EU allergen. Acute oral LD₅₀ in rodents indicates low acute toxicity at fragrance use levels. Available as white crystalline powder (Evernyl pure) or 10% DPG liquid solution from Bio Shop™ Pakistan. For leave-on personal care products, Evernyl is the preferred primary mossy character material — use it freely at 0.5–10% in compound while adding a compliant trace of Oakmoss 10% DPG for natural depth. In fougere bases, Evernyl at 5–10% in compound provides an intensely dry, clean mossy character ideal for masculine personal care and fine fragrance applications.
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Stability & Handling Precautions
Oakmoss absolute is moderately stable under correct conditions but requires specific precautions. Oxidation: exposure to air gradually degrades phenolic components, generating rancid/cardboard off-notes and potentially increasing atranol levels — always minimise headspace and consider nitrogen blanketing for long-term storage. Hydrolysis: depside ester bonds are susceptible to hydrolysis in the presence of water and strong acids (pH <4) or bases (pH >9) — avoid aqueous formulations at these extremes. Photodegradation: UV light causes aroma modification and colour change — store in amber glass only. Never use iron or copper vessels — metal ions catalyse oxidative degradation. Flash point >100°C — low fire risk. Handle in ventilated workspace; avoid prolonged skin contact; wash with soap and water after contact.
Handling & Storage
Storing in Pakistan's Climate
Temperature
15–20°C optimal; refrigerate at 10–18°C for best longevity. Chemically stable up to 30°C but accelerated degradation above 35°C. Active cooling required year-round in Pakistan's climate
Container Type
Sealed amber glass (primary, UV protection) or dark HDPE. Never use PET — phenolic compounds can leach over time. PTFE-lined caps for long-term storage. Avoid iron, copper, or reactive metal vessels
Light Exposure
Total darkness essential. UV radiation is a primary degradation driver — causes aroma modification and colour change. Amber glass provides best UV barrier. Never store near windows or under fluorescent lighting
Shelf Life
Oakmoss absolute: 3–5 years sealed; 12–18 months opened in Karachi humidity without refrigeration. Evernyl pure: 5+ years sealed amber glass. 10% DPG dilutions: same conditions as neat absolute apply
Headspace Management
Minimise headspace in partially used containers — transfer to smaller bottles or purge with nitrogen gas blanket. In Pakistan's climate, even small headspace oxidises rapidly. Cling film wrap around neck before recapping after each use
Measuring Technique
Oakmoss 10% DPG is a viscous liquid at room temperature — may need gentle warming (30°C) to improve flow. Use 0.01g precision balance; for trace levels, warm the container slightly and use a wide-bore pipette. Evernyl pure: crystalline — weigh directly
Lahore Summer (May–Sep)
Extreme temperatures 38–45°C critical risk. Never leave in vehicles — dashboard temperatures exceed 60°C. Dedicated air-conditioned fragrance storage essential (10–18°C). Insulated storage boxes for transportation. Request pre-dawn delivery scheduling from Bio Shop™ Pakistan
Karachi Coastal Climate
High humidity 70–90% RH year-round is the primary concern. Refrigerate at 10–18°C year-round; use silica gel desiccant packets in storage area; seal immediately after each use; inspect container seals regularly for moisture ingress. Hydrolysis of depside bonds accelerated by humidity contact
⚠ Adulteration & Quality Check: Genuine IFRA-compliant Oakmoss 10% DPG is a dark green to brown viscous liquid. Blotter test: apply 1 drop — should hold a clear, earthy-mossy character for minimum 2–3 days. Fading within hours = over-diluted (actual level far below stated 10%). Patchouli/earth-dominant character without the green-leathery mossy aspect = possible patchouli-vetiver blend substitution. Always request HPLC certificates confirming atranol and chloroatranol each below 100 ppm. Evernyl pure: white to off-white crystalline powder with bone-dry powdery-mossy odour even at sub-1% dilution on blotter; if odour is absent or thin, material is degraded or mislabelled.
FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Oakmoss halal? What is the exact origin of natural Oakmoss and synthetic Evernyl?+
Both natural Oakmoss absolute and synthetic Evernyl are halal. The evidence for Oakmoss absolute: (1) It is derived entirely from Evernia prunastri, a lichen — a natural fungus-algae symbiont growing on tree bark in temperate European forests. No animal-origin materials are present at any stage. (2) The extraction process uses hexane (a petrochemical hydrocarbon, not animal-derived) and ethanol for washing — both solvents are fully removed in the final absolute, leaving no residual prohibited substances. (3) No fermentation producing alcoholic beverages occurs; the ethanol used is industrial-grade extraction solvent. (4) No genetically modified inputs, no gelatine capsules, no animal byproducts. The finished absolute is a pure plant-kingdom extract. For Evernyl (synthetic Oakmoss substitute): it is produced via chemical esterification of petrochemical-derived 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid using methanol or dimethyl sulphate — completely inorganic/petrochemical synthesis, no biological or animal origin at any stage. Both materials are classified as halal by general Islamic scholarly standards for fragrance and cosmetic use. For commercial product labelling requiring formal halal certification, confirm with your regional halal certification authority.
How do I verify the purity of Oakmoss 10% DPG? What adulterants are common in Pakistan?+
Four practical verification methods are available. First, the blotter longevity test: apply one drop of the 10% DPG solution to a paper strip. Genuine IFRA-compliant Oakmoss 10% DPG should retain a clearly earthy, green-mossy character for a minimum of 2–3 days. Character fading within 1–2 hours strongly indicates over-dilution (the solution is likely 2–5% actual Oakmoss rather than the stated 10%). Second, the aroma identity test: the character should be distinctly green, earthy, mossy, and slightly leathery — not predominantly patchouli-earthy (which lacks the green-leathery moss aspect), not vetiver-smoky, and not a thin generic 'earthy' note. Third, request HPLC test certificates confirming atranol and chloroatranol each below 100 ppm — this is the definitive compliance verification and any professional-grade supplier should provide this. Fourth, Evernyl powder verification: genuine Evernyl (CAS 4707-47-5) is a white to off-white crystalline powder with a characteristic dry, bone-dry, powdery-mossy odour even at very dilute concentrations. If the powder is off-colour, clumped with moisture, or has minimal odour, it is either degraded or mislabelled. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides lot documentation for all Oakmoss and Evernyl materials.
How should I store Oakmoss in Pakistan's hot and humid climate?+
Pakistan's climate presents two distinct storage challenges that require active management. For Lahore's extreme continental heat (38–45°C in July–August): dedicated air-conditioned storage at 10–18°C is essential — never leave Oakmoss materials in vehicles during summer, as dashboard temperatures can exceed 60°C and cause irreversible degradation within hours. Use insulated cooler boxes for any transportation and request pre-dawn delivery from suppliers where available. For Karachi's coastal humidity (70–90% RH year-round): refrigerate at 10–18°C in a properly sealed amber glass container; use silica gel desiccant packets in storage drawers and cabinets; seal containers immediately after each use by wrapping the neck with cling film before recapping; inspect container seals regularly for moisture ingress. For both locations: minimise headspace in partially used containers by transferring to smaller bottles; avoid any UV light exposure; never use iron or copper vessels. Under proper storage conditions: Oakmoss 10% DPG shelf life is 2–3 years opened (up to 12–18 months in Karachi without refrigeration), 3–5 years sealed. Evernyl pure in sealed amber glass: 5+ years, very low degradation risk.
How do I perform IFRA back-calculation for Oakmoss? How does the 10% DPG solution affect dosing?+
IFRA back-calculation is essential for every Oakmoss formulation and operates as follows. The IFRA limit for Category 4 (EDP, body lotion, leave-on) is 0.1% actual Oakmoss in the finished product. Step 1: Determine your finished product Oakmoss concentration. If your fragrance compound is used at X% in the finished product, the maximum Oakmoss actual in the compound = 0.1% ÷ X%. Example: compound used at 20% in EDP → max Oakmoss actual in compound = 0.1% ÷ 0.20 = 0.5%. Step 2: Convert to 10% DPG solution quantity. Since Oakmoss 10% DPG contains 10% actual Oakmoss, the quantity of solution = actual level ÷ 10% = actual level × 10. Example: 0.5% actual Oakmoss × 10 = 5% of the 10% DPG solution in your compound. Step 3: Verify using the provided formula tables. Always document your calculation and the lot certificate of the Oakmoss used. For attars (dabbed application, small volume): the tiny quantity applied per dab means real skin exposure is typically well within IFRA limits even at higher actual percentages in the attar compound — but this assessment depends on typical application volume and should be formally calculated. Evernyl requires no IFRA calculation — use at any technically appropriate level.
Should I use natural Oakmoss 10% DPG or synthetic Evernyl? Which is better for my application?+
The choice depends on application type and olfactory target. For leave-on personal care products (lotion, cream, serum) where IFRA limits are most constraining: use Evernyl as the primary mossy character material (0.5–2% actual in compound, no restriction) and add a trace of Oakmoss 10% DPG calculated to stay at or below the IFRA limit in finished product for natural complexity. For fine fragrance (EDP/EDT) sprayed on skin: a strategic combination delivers best results — Evernyl for the dry powdery mossy backbone (no restriction) plus IFRA-compliant Oakmoss for the irreplaceable green-earthy-leathery living-forest complexity. For DPG-based attars (applied in tiny dab quantities): Oakmoss 10% DPG can be used at practically useful levels in the attar compound because the small application volume keeps finished-product skin exposure well within limits. Calculate formally. For home fragrance (candles, diffusers, room sprays) where no on-skin IFRA restriction applies: use Oakmoss at 0.5–2% actual for full atmospheric forest character. For soap: use Evernyl predominantly (IFRA soap category limits apply even to rinse-off). For bakhoor and oud burner compounds: use Oakmoss freely as an atmospheric deepener — thermal diffusion is not subject to IFRA on-skin limits.
What is the regulatory status of Oakmoss for EU export from Pakistan? What labelling is required?+
For Pakistani domestic market products: no current national regulation equivalent to the EU Cosmetics Regulation governs Oakmoss use in Pakistan. IFRA Standards are the voluntary global industry baseline. For products exported to EU or UK markets: Oakmoss extract (Evernia prunastri) is listed in Annex III of EU Regulation 1223/2009 — mandatory declaration as "Evernia Prunastri Extract" on the INCI ingredients list if present above 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products or 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products. Additionally, EU Commission Regulation 2017/1410 prohibits free atranol and chloroatranol above trace levels in cosmetic products placed on the EU market — IFRA-compliant low-atranol Oakmoss (<100 ppm) is the correct material but case-by-case finished-product verification is still needed. For Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) export: follow IFRA standards as GCC countries broadly adopt these. For US export: FDA does not specifically restrict Oakmoss in cosmetics, but IFRA-compliant levels are the industry standard. For Pakistan domestic products with 'natural' positioning: using the term 'natural fragrance' or 'natural perfume' when Oakmoss is an ingredient is accurate — it is a natural extract. Consult an EU regulatory consultant for specific export product portfolios before commercial launch.
Which Pakistani consumers respond best to Oakmoss compositions? What is the commercial opportunity?+
The most responsive segments are: Urban professionals aged 25–45 in Lahore, Karachi, and Islamabad who follow international niche fragrance culture through social media and travel. Men in this group engage strongly with Oakmoss in sophisticated masculine fougere or chypre attars — a distinctive alternative to mainstream oud-dominant attars that positions the wearer as cosmopolitan and fragrance-educated. Women in this demographic respond well to romantic feminine chypre accords (Oakmoss + rose + labdanum) positioned as sophisticated, nature-connected alternatives to sweet florals and gourmand compositions. The Gulf export channel is commercially significant: buyers sourcing for the Saudi Arabia, UAE, and Qatar markets look for oriental-chypre hybrid compositions that blend Eastern richness (oud, sandalwood, rose) with the distinctive mossy-forest depth that Oakmoss uniquely provides. Seasonal positioning is important: Oakmoss-forward compositions are best positioned for Pakistan's cooler months (October to March) — in peak summer (May to August in Lahore/Karachi), reduce Oakmoss to trace levels and balance with fresh citrus and aquatic top notes. Naming strategy: 'jangal' (forest), 'kohistan' (mountain range), and 'barish ki khushbu' (fragrance of rain) concepts resonate strongly with Pakistan's urban nature-connected aesthetic.
What Urdu product names work for Oakmoss fragrances? How does it perform in Pakistan's seasonal climate?+
Recommended Urdu naming vocabulary for Oakmoss-featuring compositions draws on forest, mountain, rain, and earth imagery that resonates with Pakistani consumers: Koh-e-Qamar (کوہِ قمر — Mountain of the Moon, ideal for masculine attar); Jangal ki Rani (جنگل کی رانی — Queen of the Forest, for feminine chypre EDP); Sham-e-Jangal (شامِ جنگل — Forest Evening, for unisex or home fragrance); Khushbu-e-Barish (خوشبوئے بارش — Fragrance of Rain, for lighter chypre-inspired body spray); Kaai-e-Koh (کائِ کوہ — Mountain Moss, for premium artisan attar); Koh-e-Noor (کوہِ نور — Mountain of Light, for masculine personal care). Seasonal performance: Oakmoss is a distinctly cool-weather ingredient in Pakistan. In Lahore's winter evenings (December to February) and Islamabad's autumn (October to November), Oakmoss-containing compositions develop slowly and beautifully on skin, with the moderate temperatures allowing full complexity to emerge — this is when Oakmoss is at its most compelling and marketable in Pakistan. In summer (May to August), use Oakmoss at trace levels only (0.01–0.05% actual) and balance with generous citrus and fresh notes. Karachi's year-round moderate temperatures (25–35°C) allow Oakmoss to be used at slightly higher levels across more of the year than in Lahore's extremes.
Everything on this page and substantially more — the complete history of Oakmoss in chypre and fougere perfumery from Fougère Royale (1882) to Mitsouko's reformulation challenge and Thierry Wasser's creative solution; full atranorin structure and hydrolysis mechanism with depside chemistry diagrams; complete IFRA 51st Amendment category-by-category limits with back-calculation tables; six landmark fragrance case studies (Fougère Royale, Chypre, Mitsouko, Miss Dior, Chanel No. 19, Aromatics Elixir); Unani medicine and Islamic aromatic heritage context for Oakmoss; Pakistani seasonal formulation guidance for cooler months; detailed field verification tests and adulteration guide; structure-odour relationship analysis of Evernyl vs. Oakmoss depside compounds; advanced blending strategies for six classic accord types; and a comprehensive 25-term glossary of lichen, chypre, and depside terminology.
