• Reduces hair strength for chemical depilation
• Used in hair perming, relaxing, and waving products
• Disrupts disulfide bonds for shape transformation
• Fast-acting and effective at low concentrations
• Ideal for professional use in salon and cosmetic treatments

Thioglycolic Acid – Powerful Hair Removal & Curling Active

 Thioglycolic Acid, also known as Mercaptoacetic Acid, is a highly effective active used in hair removal creams, chemical depilatories, and permanent waving formulations. It works by breaking the disulfide bonds in keratin — the protein structure of hair — allowing it to soften, dissolve, or reshape. Due to its strong reactivity, it is commonly neutralized into salts (e.g., Calcium Thioglycolate) to reduce irritation. It is mainly used in professional products for hair removal, permanent curls (perms), and hair relaxers.

INCI Name: Thioglycolic Acid

CAS Number: 68-11-1

Solubility: Soluble in water and alcohol

Add Phase: Neutralize and incorporate into final phase

pH Stability: Functional at pH 7 – 12

Processing Temperature: Below 50°C

Appearance: Clear to yellow liquid

Odor: Pungent sulfur-like odor

Molecular Formula: C2H4O2S

Molecular Weight: 92.12 g/mol

Flash Point: 122°C

Density: 1.33 g/cm³

Chemical Type: Sulfur-based carboxylic acid

Functional Groups: Thiol, Carboxyl

Primary Cosmetic Uses: Hair removal creams, perms, hair relaxing creams, callus removers

• Usage Rate: 1% – 10% (max 5% in leave-on; always follow safety guidelines)
• Phase: Add post-neutralization or with buffering agents
• Ideal For: Hair removal creams, perming lotions, callus treatment products

⚠️ Always neutralize Thioglycolic Acid before use in cosmetic formulas. Combine with calcium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide and stabilize pH using borax or buffering systems. Use gloves during handling.

❗ Not suitable for sensitive skin without neutralization

✔️ Use only in professional or regulated cosmetic products

❌ Avoid on broken or irritated skin

1. Hair Removal Cream

Use 5% Thioglycolic Acid, neutralized with calcium hydroxide, blended with emollients and mild bases for safe depilation.

2. Cold Wave Perm Lotion

Incorporate 2–4% into alkaline waving lotion for reshaping hair curls. Follow with neutralizer.

3. Hair Relaxer Cream

Use in combination with buffer systems and oils to soften curly or coily hair textures.

4. Callus Removal Gel

Apply in low concentration with lactic acid for professional pedicure systems.

5. Facial Hair Bleaching Base

Use in buffered formula for safe bleaching of fine facial hair (professional-use only).

Serums
☆☆☆☆☆ – Not Suitable
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Too strong and unsuitable for leave-on face formulas.



Creams & Lotions
⭐⭐⭐☆☆ – Moderate
🟧🟧🟧⬜⬜ – Only in controlled depilatory or foot care creams.



Toners
☆☆☆☆☆ – Not Suitable
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Unsafe in watery, leave-on skin products.



Face Masks
⭐☆☆☆☆ – Poor
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Too reactive unless used by professionals.



Cleansers
⭐☆☆☆☆ – Poor
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Unsuitable for everyday facial cleansing.



Hair Masks
⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ – Good
🟩🟩🟩🟩⬜ – Effective in perm and relaxer systems.



Deodorants
☆☆☆☆☆ – Not Suitable
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Too strong for underarm or sensitive areas.



Eye Creams
☆☆☆☆☆ – Not Suitable
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Never use near eyes.



Shampoos
⭐⭐☆☆☆ – Fair
🟧🟧⬜⬜⬜ – Only in hair treatment shampoos (wash-off).



Soaps
⭐⭐☆☆☆ – Fair
🟧🟧⬜⬜⬜ – Only in depilatory soaps under control.



Conditioners
⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ – Good
🟩🟩🟩🟩⬜ – Useful in professional perming creams.



Lip Balms
☆☆☆☆☆ – Not Suitable
🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜ – Dangerous for mucosal areas.



Body Butters
⭐⭐☆☆☆ – Fair
🟧🟧⬜⬜⬜ – Can be used in foot softening products.



Ointments
⭐⭐⭐☆☆ – Moderate
🟧🟧🟧⬜⬜ – Specialty use in keratolytic ointments.

Q1: Is Thioglycolic Acid safe in skincare?

A1: Only when properly neutralized and used in regulated concentrations. Avoid in daily skincare.

Q2: Can it be used for facial hair removal?

A2: Yes, but only in buffered depilatory creams with mild pH, preferably wash-off and professionally formulated.

Q3: Is it the same as Calcium Thioglycolate?

A3: Calcium Thioglycolate is the salt form, less irritating and more stable, commonly used in commercial products.