Ingredient Glossary · Aroma Chemicals

Alpha Damascone

(E)-1-(2,6,6-Trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)but-2-en-1-one · CAS 43052-87-5 · گل صبا

Gul-e-Saba (گل صبا) — the rose ketone that transforms gulab accords. A C13 norterpenoid with an odour threshold of ~1 ppb, Alpha Damascone delivers an unmistakably radiant rose-fruity-apple character present in Bulgarian Damask rose absolute. Central to Pakistan's Eid, shaadi, and Gulf-export rose perfumery. IFRA-Restricted: combined rose ketone limit applies. Complete scientific, olfactory, and IFRA back-calculation reference.

CAS
43052-87-5
Identifier
~1
ppb
Odour Threshold
⚠ IFRA
Restricted
51st Amend.
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Quick Reference

At a Glance

Common Names
Alpha Damascone · α-Damascone · Rose Ketone-1 · Dorinone (Firmenich trade) · Damascone Alpha · RK-1 · Dihydrofloriffone α
CAS / EINECS / FEMA
CAS 43052-87-5 (racemic) · CAS 24720-09-0 (E-isomer)
EINECS 241-809-1 · FEMA 3420
Molecular Formula
C₁₃H₂₀O · MW 192.30 g/mol · C13 norterpenoid ketone (enone)
Physical Form
Colourless to pale yellow mobile liquid · Density 0.938–0.948 g/mL · RI 1.4980–1.5020 · Flash point >100°C
Solubility / Log P
Freely soluble in DPG, ethanol, fixed oils · Practically insoluble in water · Moderate–high lipophilicity
Synthesis Route
Cyclogeranic acid + allyl Grignard reagent → homoallylic alcohol → [3,3]-sigmatropic pyrolysis at 200–350°C · Firmenich-type
Natural Occurrence
Trace (<1 ppm) in Rosa damascena absolute · Turkish rose oil · Black tea volatiles · Aged red wine · Tobacco fermentation
Halal Status
✓ Halal — fully synthetic via terpene or petrochemical precursors. No animal inputs, no ethanol, no fermentation at any stage
Odour Character
Powerful rose-floral · Fruity-apple · Plum · Blackcurrant · Green · Minty-metallic shimmer · گل صبا (Gul-e-Saba)
Odour Threshold
~1 ppb (0.001 mg/L) in air — extraordinarily potent · At IFRA Cat 4 max (0.043% finished EDP), ~430× above threshold
IFRA Status (51st)
⚠ RESTRICTED — Rose Ketones combined limit. Cat 4 (fine fragrance): 0.043% finished product. Back-calculate from compound loading
EU Allergen Status
⚠ ALLERGEN — Reg. 2023/1545: declare >0.001% in leave-on cosmetics; >0.01% in rinse-off products (finished product %)
Pakistani Application
Premium gulab attars · Shaadi (wedding) fragrances · Eid gifts · Gulf-export rose-oud concentrates · DPG roll-on attars · Bakhoor
Shelf Life (sealed)
18–24 months sealed; 12 months once opened. Nitrogen blanketing strongly recommended after each use. Amber glass essential
Introduction

The Rose Ketone That Changes Everything

Alpha Damascone is one of the most celebrated and potent aroma chemicals in the entire vocabulary of modern perfumery — a pale yellow to colourless liquid belonging to the rose ketone family of C13 norterpenoid compounds, bearing the molecular formula C₁₃H₂₀O and a molecular weight of 192.30 g/mol. At infinitesimally low concentrations, it delivers a powerful, radiant, and unmistakably rosy character enriched with facets of ripe green apple, plum, blackcurrant, and a distinctive minty-metallic shimmer that elevates virtually any floral composition to a higher plane of diffusion and naturalness. Because its detection threshold sits around 1 part per billion, a fraction of a gram of Alpha Damascone can transform a kilogram of compound — making it one of the highest-impact materials available to the perfumer.

The compound's discovery traces to the landmark 1965 GC-MS analysis of Bulgarian Damask rose absolute by Edouard Demole at ETH Zurich in collaboration with Firmenich SA, where trace-level damascones were found to contribute disproportionately to the characteristic richness of Rosa damascena. Firmenich commercialised Alpha Damascone under the trade name Dorinone by the early 1970s, and it has since appeared in landmark fine fragrances including Knowing (Estée Lauder, 1988), Trésor (Lancôme, 1990), and Beautiful (Estée Lauder, 1985). For Pakistan's vast and growing fragrance economy — attar makers crafting Eid and shaadi accords in Lahore and Karachi, Gulf-export compounders seeking to elevate rose-oud concentrates to international quality — Alpha Damascone is the enabling material that bridges the cost of genuine rose absolute with the olfactory standard that experienced consumers demand.

IFRA note: Alpha Damascone falls under the IFRA Rose Ketones combined standard (51st Amendment, 2023). The combined ceiling for all rose ketone isomers in Cat 4 fine fragrance is 0.043% of the finished product. At 20% compound loading in an EDP, this translates to a maximum of 0.215% Alpha Damascone in the fragrance compound — more than adequate for full olfactory impact. All three formulas in this glossary are designed with explicit IFRA back-calculation notes.

Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note

Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks Alpha Damascone in two formats: pure perfumery grade (CAS 43052-87-5, ≥97% GC) for use at ≥1% in compound, and 10% in DPG solution for accurate weighing at trace levels below 1%. Certificate of Analysis provided with every batch including GC purity, specific gravity, refractive index, and batch number. Material meets Firmenich-equivalent quality standards. For IFRA compliance: always calculate actual Alpha Damascone concentration (not 10% DPG volume) when computing rose ketone totals. Visit bioshop.pk/products/alpha-damascone for current stock and pricing.

Molecular Identity

Chemical Identification

IUPAC Name(E)-1-(2,6,6-Trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)but-2-en-1-one
CAS (Racemic)43052-87-5 · Commercial standard for perfumery use
CAS (E-isomer)24720-09-0 (trans) · CAS 23726-94-5 (cis Z-isomer)
EINECS / FEMAEINECS 241-809-1 · FEMA 3420 (GRAS, approved 1982)
SynonymsRose Ketone-1 · Damascone Alpha · Dorinone (Firmenich) · Dihydrofloriffone α · RK-1
Formula / MWC₁₃H₂₀O · 192.30 g/mol · Linear: cyclohexenyl–CH=CH–C(=O)–CH₃
Chemical ClassC13 norterpenoid; α,β-unsaturated ketone (conjugated enone); rose ketone family
Ring System2,6,6-trimethylcyclohex-2-en-1-yl ring · Double bond at C2–C3 of cyclohexene
Functional GroupsConjugated enone (C=C–C=O) · Ring alkene · α,β-unsaturated carbonyl (olfactory pharmacophore)
StereochemistryE/Z geometric isomers; commercial = racemic mixture · E-form = greater olfactory intensity · E:Z ratio 70:30–85:15
Synthesis RouteCyclogeranic acid + allylmagnesium bromide (Grignard) in THF at 0°C → homoallylic alcohol → pyrolysis 200–350°C → [3,3]-sigmatropic rearrangement → Alpha Damascone
Raw MaterialsGeraniol or cyclogeranic acid (from citronella/palmarosa terpenes or petrochemical isoprene) · Allyl Grignard from allyl chloride + magnesium · No animal inputs
Natural OccurrenceRosa damascena (<1 ppm trace) · Turkish rose oil · Black tea · Aged red wine · Tobacco fermentation distillates
Urdu / Pakistanگل صبا (Gul-e-Saba) — Morning Flower Essence · گلاب کی مہک (Gulab ki Mehak) — the fragrance of rose
Grade & Purity Profiles

Four Commercial Grades

Alpha Damascone is available in several grades. Quality is determined not just by absolute purity but by the consistency of the E:Z isomer ratio and trace impurity profile — the Firmenich benchmark is an E:Z ratio of approximately 70:30 to 85:15. Pakistan's grey market carries significant adulteration risk (Beta Damascone substitution, ionone blending, under-strength DPG solutions). Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks perfumery grade (≥97% GC) meeting international standards, with CoA on every batch.

Professional Standard · Bio Shop™ Grade
Perfumery Grade (Racemic)
≥97% GC · CAS 43052-87-5 · E:Z ~70:30–85:15 · Colourless–pale yellow liquid
GC Purity (sum of isomers)
≥97%
Sp. Gr. 0.938–0.948 · RI 1.4980–1.5020 · Flash pt >100°C
"The professional standard for all attar, EDP, and personal care formulation. Powerful rose-fruity-apple on blotter with minty-metallic shimmer; use at 0.01–0.2% in compound. Bio Shop™ Pakistan primary stock. GC CoA with every batch. Use 10% DPG version for trace-level work below 1% in compound."
Premium Analytical · Research Grade
Pure E-Isomer (trans)
≥99% GC · CAS 24720-09-0 · Analytical reference material · Higher cost
GC Purity (E-isomer only)
≥99%
Marginal olfactory difference vs. racemic at working concentrations
"Research and analytical reference use. The trans-(E) configuration is associated with greater olfactory intensity and the characteristic rose note. Practical olfactory difference vs. commercial racemic is marginal at IFRA-compliant working levels. Not required for formulation; useful for benchmarking and academic study."
Trace-Level Formulation · Pre-Diluted
10% in DPG Solution
10% active in DPG · Clear colourless solution · For sub-1% compound use · Easier weighing
Active Content
10%
1g of solution = 0.10g actual Alpha Damascone — adjust formula
"The recommended format for attar compounders, personal care formulators, and anyone using Alpha Damascone at below 1% in compound. DPG's slight antioxidant properties also marginally improve storage stability. Critical: always record 'actual Alpha Damascone' — not DPG solution volume — in IFRA compliance calculations."
⚠ Avoid Without Verification
Adulterated / Unknown
Pakistan grey market · Beta Damascone sub · Ionone blending · Under-strength 10% DPG solutions
Actual Purity
Unknown
No CoA · No E:Z ratio confirmation · Suspect pricing
"Common adulterants: Beta Damascone substitution (sweeter, less apple-plum fruitiness), ionone fractions (violet/iris character instead of rose-fruit), under-strength '10% DPG' with actual concentration far below stated. Field test: 1% in DPG on a strip should project clearly rose-fruity-apple from 10–15cm. Absence of apple-plum = suspect material."
Dosage Science

Concentration Behaviour

Alpha Damascone is governed by a hard regulatory ceiling (IFRA Rose Ketones combined: 0.043% in Cat 4 fine fragrance finished product) as well as an olfactory ceiling above which quality degrades. Within this envelope, the compound operates as a radiance enhancer — at its most effective from 0.01% upward in compound, with the optimum for attar formulation at 0.04–0.08% actual in compound (yielding the IFRA-permitted level in finished oil). Always calculate back from compound loading to finished product concentration before finalising formulas.

<0.01% in CompoundThreshold Enhancement
Subliminal rose radiance lift; no identifiable character but adds depth and naturalness imperceptibly to synthetic rose accords. Useful as a subconscious quality signal in mass-market products where budget constrains higher use
0.01–0.05% in CompoundRose Radiance Lift
Clearly perceptible rose lift and fruity shimmer. Standard fine fragrance compound level. At 20% compound loading in EDP = 0.002–0.01% finished — within IFRA Cat 4 limit. Ideal starting level for attar; use 10% DPG solution for accuracy
0.05–0.15% in CompoundFull Apple-Plum Rose
Full apple-plum rose character with excellent diffusion. Rose-dominant EDP compounds and oriental concentrate work. At 20% loading = 0.01–0.03% finished product — IFRA compliant as sole rose ketone. Ideal for Gulf-export attar at 0.04–0.08% actual
0.15–0.215% in CompoundMaximum IFRA Range
Dominant fruity-rosy note; metallic nuance apparent. Approaches maximum IFRA-permitted level in compound at 20% EDP loading (0.215% compound = 0.043% finished). Requires careful IFRA calculation. Expert formulation. Very high sillage and radiance
0.215–0.5% in CompoundRestricted — Back-Calculate
Exceeds IFRA Cat 4 limit at 20% compound loading. May be used at lower compound loading (e.g. soap, body wash) where finished product concentration remains compliant. Always back-calculate: % in compound × compound loading % = % in finished product
Above 1% in Compound (pure)Non-Compliant / Overdose
Very powerful, harsh, medicinal, and overwhelming at undiluted evaluation. Will exceed IFRA limits in virtually all consumer product formats at any reasonable compound loading. Not recommended; only possible within compliance for highly diluted rinse-off at very low loading
Sensory Analysis

Olfactory Evolution

Burst · 0–30 min
Rose Radiance
Alpha Damascone opens with a burst of diffusive, radiant rose-fruity-apple energy — an olfactory character that announces itself from a distance before the wearer has arrived. The conjugated enone activates olfactory receptors in the OR5 family with extraordinary affinity at concentrations just above threshold, creating the perception of a living, breathing rose rather than a synthetic approximation. The green-apple facet dominates the burst phase, followed immediately by a plum-blackcurrant richness that gives the opening its characteristic depth. In Pakistan's summer heat — Lahore at 42°C, Karachi at 38°C — the volatilisation of Alpha Damascone from warm skin is accelerated, making the opening burst even more immediate and diffusive. Pakistani brides wearing Alpha Damascone-enhanced rose attars at summer weddings experience this opening radiance as a defining quality signal, the fragrance trailing behind them through the wedding hall.
Heart · 30 min–4 hr
Fruity-Rose Signature
As the initial burst subsides, Alpha Damascone's full character develops: a rich, naturalistically rosy-fruity heart with the distinctive minty-metallic shimmer that distinguishes rose ketones from all other rose materials. This heart phase represents the compound's finest hour — when paired with Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA), the combination creates a rose accord far more convincing as natural than either ingredient alone. The plum-blackcurrant facets add a jewelled richness that Pakistani perfumers describe as "gulab ka dil" — the heart of the rose. The minty-metallic quality, arising from secondary receptor activation by the cyclohexene ring geometry, adds an unusual cool freshness that reads as both exotic and naturalistic. This phase is the primary value driver for Gulf export rose-oud attars, where Alpha Damascone's heart contribution bridges the quality gap with genuine Bulgarian rose absolute at a fraction of the raw material cost.
Transition · 2–4 hr
Powdery Warmth
In the late heart phase, Alpha Damascone's character softens from fruity-rosy to a warmer, powdery-earthy rose quality, with a subtle tobacco nuance that adds vintage depth to the accord — a character noted by professional evaluators as reminiscent of classic 1980s rose chypre fragrances. This transition is particularly perceptible in DPG-based attars, where the non-evaporating carrier slows the departure of volatile materials and extends the development arc considerably. Culturally, this warm, powdery transition resonates with the dry-down quality of high-grade Mysore sandalwood attars that Pakistani consumers associate with authentic Mughal-era fragrance tradition. Combined with Sandenol or sandalwood EO base notes that emerge at this phase, it creates the warm, radiant floral-woody accord that defines premium Gulf-market rose-oud concentrates.
Dry-down · 4 hr+ / Fabric
Exquisite Memory
Alpha Damascone's moderate binding to skin proteins and lipids provides better substantivity than its volatility suggests, with skin perception lasting 3–6 hours in an attar format. On fabric, the ester partitions into textile fibres and releases slowly — blotter strips have been documented retaining the odour for more than 60 hours, making it one of the most fabric-substantive top-note materials in the professional palette. Pakistani men wearing Alpha Damascone-enhanced Eid attars find that a faint, exquisitely rosy-fruity quality persists on their shalwar kameez lapel through the day's celebrations and into the evening. This fabric ghost — barely perceptible but unmistakably rose — is one of Alpha Damascone's most commercially valuable properties for the Pakistani luxury attar market, where multi-hour longevity is a primary quality criterion.
Radiant Rose Green Apple Plum Blackcurrant Minty-Metallic Fruity-Rosy Diffusive گل صبا (Gul-e-Saba) Powdery Dry-down Tobacco (trace)
Formulation Accords

Three Complete Formulas

Three production-ready formulas from the Bio Shop™ Pakistan reference document — exact weights, exact percentages, with IFRA back-calculation notes for each. Formula 1 is a DPG attar (no alcohol). Formula 2 is a rose-woody EDP compound using Perfume Premix as the sole alcohol base. Formula 3 is a rose body lotion compound. All three are designed at or below IFRA Rose Ketones combined limits for their respective product categories.

گل صبا اتر  ·  Gul-e-Saba Attar
Morning Rose DPG Attar · No alcohol · 100g batch · Roll-on dabba · Pakistani premium rose attar · Eid / shaadi / bakhoor base
Geraniol (pure)3.00g  3%
Linalool (pure)4.00g  4%
Hedione (pure)8.00g  8%
Sandenol (pure)5.00g  5%
IFRA Back-Calculation
⚖ IFRA Check: 0.4g of 10% DPG solution = 0.04g actual Alpha Damascone in 100g attar = 0.04% Alpha Damascone in finished product. IFRA Cat 4 (fine fragrance/attar) combined rose ketone limit = 0.043%. This formula uses Alpha Damascone as the sole rose ketone — compliant ✓. If adding Beta Damascone or Damascenone, sum all rose ketone actuals against the 0.043% ceiling.
Method
Step 1: Warm DPG to 40°C; dissolve Rose Crystals completely, cool to room temperature. Step 2: Blend all liquid ingredients in order listed; stir gently. Step 3: Add Alpha Damascone 10% DPG last; stir gently 3 min. Step 4: Mature sealed 72 hours minimum, away from light. Longevity: 8–12 hours skin. Character: Radiant, naturalistic gulab — Eid-quality rose attar with apple-plum lift and sandalwood warmth.
Gul Mirage EDP  ·  گل میراج
Rose-Woody EDP Compound · Perfume Premix base · 100g compound · Gulf export / urban professional 25–40
Hedione (pure)12.00g  12%
Linalool (pure)5.00g  5%
Sandenol (pure)5.00g  5%
IFRA Back-Calculation
⚖ IFRA Check: 2g of 10% DPG solution = 0.2g actual Alpha Damascone in 100g compound = 0.2% in compound. At 20% compound loading in finished EDP: 0.2% × 0.20 = 0.04% Alpha Damascone in finished EDP. IFRA Cat 4 combined rose ketone limit = 0.043%. Compound is sole rose ketone source — compliant ✓. Tonalide 10% = 0.5g actual Tonalide; Ambroxan 10% = 1g actual Ambroxan.
Finished Bottle — Perfume Premix Only
EDP: 20g compound + 80g Perfume Premix  ·  EDT: 15g + 85g  ·  Parfum: 28g + 72g. Mature 2–4 weeks sealed, cool, dark. Longevity EDP: 6–8 hours. Sillage: moderate-high. Character: Fresh rosy-woody EDP; rose-fruity sparkle over cedarwood-ambergris-musk base. EU export: declare Alpha Damascone on label (EU allergen, Reg. 2023/1545) if >0.001% in finished leave-on product.
Gul Noor Body Lotion  ·  گل نور
Rose Body Lotion Fragrance Compound · Use at 2% in finished lotion · 100g compound batch · Women 18–35 · Urban Pakistan
Linalool (pure)8.00g  8%
Hedione (pure)10.00g  10%
Sandenol (pure)6.00g  6%
Geraniol (pure)3.00g  3%
IFRA Back-Calculation
⚖ IFRA Check: 10g of 10% DPG solution = 1g actual Alpha Damascone in 100g compound = 1% in compound. At 2% compound loading in finished lotion: 1% × 0.02 = 0.02% Alpha Damascone in finished lotion. IFRA Cat 5A (body lotion, leave-on) combined rose ketone limit = 0.02%. Compliant at exactly the limit ✓. Do not increase compound loading above 2% without recalculating. EU allergen: declare Alpha Damascone on label (>0.001% leave-on threshold).
Usage in Finished Lotion (500g)
Add 10g compound to 490g unscented lotion base (pH 5.5–6.5). Warm lotion base to 35°C; add compound with gentle stirring 5 min. Cool to RT; fill and seal. Test stability (40°C, 12 weeks). Character: Radiant rose-floral with soft sandalwood base · Longevity on skin: 3–5 hours · Sillage: moderate. Pakistani market: women's premium rose body lotion; position as "Gul Noor" (flower light) for urban retail.
Synergies

Classic Pairings

Alpha Damascone's most powerful synergies are with PEA (rose naturalness), Hedione (jasmine-rose freshness), Citronellol (rosy-citrus classical accord), and Ambroxan (radiance amplification). Caution: heavy musks above 5% or dense balsamic materials can "bury" Alpha Damascone's delicate fruity-rosy diffusion. Keep Benzyl Salicylate below 10% in DPG attars to preserve the full rose ketone contribution. Ratios shown as compound percentages.

Rose Material Comparison

Alpha Damascone vs. Alternatives

Beta Damascone
Rose Ketone · C13 Norterpenoid · Double bond at C1–C2 · Sweeter, more classic rose
Aroma vs. Alpha Damascone
Sweeter, more purely floral rose; less fruity-apple-plum; less minty-metallic; more popular in mass-market applications
Threshold / IFRA
~0.5 ppb — slightly more potent · ⚠ IFRA Restricted — counts toward same rose ketone combined limit as Alpha Damascone
Use With Alpha Damascone
Together they create a fuller rose ketone profile: Alpha = fruity radiance; Beta = floral sweetness. Sum both toward combined IFRA limit
Pakistan Application
Premium gulab attars combining both isomers approach the complexity of genuine rose absolute; highly effective for wedding and Eid fragrances
Verdict: Complementary, not replacement. Alpha + Beta together create a fuller rose ketone profile than either alone. Use together within the combined 0.043% Cat 4 limit for finest results.
PEA (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)
Aromatic Alcohol · Rose-Honey · Unrestricted · High-volume rose base material
Aroma vs. Alpha Damascone
Rose-honey, fresh, soft — lacks the fruity-apple radiance and diffusion of Alpha Damascone; rounder, heavier, less sharp
Threshold / IFRA
~1000 ppb — far less potent · ✓ IFRA not restricted · Not EU allergen-listed · Widely available in Pakistan
Use With Alpha Damascone
Essential pairing: PEA provides the honeyed rose base; Alpha Damascone provides the fruity radiance and naturalness that PEA alone cannot achieve
Pakistan Application
High-volume attar base; used at 20–30% in compound. The Alpha Damascone + PEA combination is the foundation of any quality gulab attar
Verdict: Indispensable partner, not alternative. No rose accord is complete without both PEA (body and honey) and Alpha Damascone (fruity radiance). They activate complementary receptor pathways. Available at bioshop.pk/products/pea-phenyl-ethyl-alcohol
Alpha Ionone
Ionone · C13 Terpenoid Ketone · Violet-Rose · Unrestricted · Different receptor profile
Aroma vs. Alpha Damascone
Violet, woody-rose, raspberry — less rose, more iris/violet; less diffusive; powdery rather than radiant; lacks apple-plum fruitiness
Threshold / IFRA
~5 ppb — less potent than Alpha Damascone · ✓ IFRA not restricted · Not in EU allergen list · Lower cost than Alpha Damascone
Use With Alpha Damascone
Rose-violet accord: Alpha Damascone 0.04% + Alpha Ionone 0.1% → adds iris-violet dimension to rose; useful in complex florentine-style rose
Pakistan Application
Budget alternative for generic floral top note — lacks Alpha Damascone's rose-specific identity and diffusive power; cannot replace damascone in quality gulab
Verdict: Structural alternative only. Alpha Ionone and Alpha Damascone are positional isomers — one bond shift changes rose to violet. Choose Alpha Damascone for gulab radiance; Alpha Ionone for iris-violet character. Available at bioshop.pk/products/alpha-ionone
Gamma Methyl Ionone
Ionone · Iris-Violet-Powdery · Suede · Unrestricted · Warm, drier than Alpha Damascone
Aroma vs. Alpha Damascone
Iris, violet, powdery, suede — no rose fruitiness; warm and drying rather than diffusive and radiant; complementary rather than competitive
Threshold / IFRA
~0.5 ppb — similar potency to Alpha Damascone · ✓ IFRA not restricted · Not EU allergen-listed · Available at bioshop.pk
Use With Alpha Damascone
Rose-iris accord: adds suede-powdery depth under Alpha Damascone's fruity rose radiance; creates complex floral reminiscent of classic 1980s feminines
Pakistan Application
Premium rose-iris attar base; adds vintage sophistication to gulab accords for Gulf export luxury positioning. Used at 2–3% in compound alongside Alpha Damascone
Verdict: Excellent complementary material. Gamma Methyl Ionone adds iris-powdery depth that surrounds Alpha Damascone's rose-fruity radiance, creating complexity that approaches high-end international rose fragrances. Available at bioshop.pk/products/gamma-methyl-ionone
Safety & Regulations

IFRA & Safety Overview

Educational summary of publicly available regulatory data as of 2024. Always consult the current IFRA Standards (51st Amendment), the ingredient Safety Data Sheet, RIFM Safety Database, and your regulatory advisor before commercial formulation. This document does not constitute regulatory or safety advice.
⚠️

IFRA 51st Amendment — RESTRICTED (Rose Ketones Combined)

Alpha Damascone is RESTRICTED under the IFRA Rose Ketones Standard (51st Amendment, June 2023). This is a combined limit applying to the sum of all rose ketone isomers — Alpha Damascone, Beta Damascone, Gamma Damascone, Delta Damascone, Damascenone and their isomers collectively. Key limits: Cat 4 (fine fragrance, attar): 0.043% of finished product · Cat 5A (body lotion, leave-on): 0.02% · Cat 7 (shampoo, rinse-off): 0.02% · Cat 8 (room diffuser): 0.07% · Baby products: 0.008%. Back-calculate from compound loading before finalising any formula. If Alpha Damascone is the sole rose ketone, the back-calculation formula is: % in compound × compound loading % = % in finished product.

🇪🇺

EU Allergen — Mandatory Declaration Required

Under European Regulation 2023/1545 (updating EC 1223/2009 Annex III), Alpha Damascone is classified as a fragrance allergen and must be listed by name on product labels when present above: 0.001% (10 mg/kg) in leave-on cosmetics and 0.01% (100 mg/kg) in rinse-off products (thresholds apply to finished product concentration). For Pakistani manufacturers exporting to EU, UK, or GCC markets that follow the EU allergen framework: allergen labelling compliance is mandatory. For Pakistan domestic market: DRAP and PSQCA do not currently mandate allergen labelling; IFRA compliance is voluntary best practice. Always include "Alpha Damascone" in your IFRA compliance records for export products.

Pakistan DRAP & Halal — Fully Compliant

No specific restriction under DRAP cosmetics guidelines for domestic market. Pakistani formulators may use Alpha Damascone freely within IFRA limits. Halal status is confirmed: commercial Alpha Damascone is produced entirely synthetically via the cyclogeranic acid / Grignard / pyrolysis route using plant-terpene or petrochemical precursors. No animal-derived materials, no ethanol, no fermentation at any stage. The 10% DPG solution is also fully Halal (DPG is a non-intoxicating petrochemical glycol, widely accepted as Halal permissible). For formal Halal certification of finished consumer products: consult PHDEC (Pakistan), ESMA (UAE), or JAKIM (Malaysia). Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide manufacturer Halal compatibility documentation on request.

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Human Safety — GHS07 Skin Sensitiser Category 1

GHS Classification: Skin Sensitizer Cat. 1 (H317); Acute Tox. 4 Oral. Oral LD₅₀ in rats >2000 mg/kg — low acute toxicity at practical usage levels. Skin sensitisation positive in LLNA (Local Lymph Node Assay); the α,β-unsaturated ketone reacts with nucleophilic amino acids in skin proteins, the mechanism underlying IFRA restrictions. Eye irritant — avoid direct contact. No significant vapour risk at ambient temperature; avoid prolonged inhalation of heated samples. Not genotoxic based on RIFM assessment. Moderate skin absorption contributes to substantivity but also to sensitisation mechanism at excessive concentrations. FEMA GRAS 3420 for food flavour use. Biodegradable; low aquatic toxicity at consumer product usage levels.

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Formulation Chemistry Precautions

The conjugated enone system (C=C–C=O) is reactive under certain conditions: susceptible to nucleophilic addition in strongly alkaline environments (pH >9 — avoid soap-making applications without stability testing), and mild Michael addition reactivity with thiol groups in skin proteins contributes to the sensitisation mechanism. The cyclohexene ring double bond undergoes autoxidation with atmospheric oxygen, producing rancid off-notes; nitrogen blanketing after each use is strongly recommended. Incompatibility with strong oxidising agents and heavy metal ions (iron, copper catalyse oxidation). Do not store in clear glass — UV irradiation causes photochemical ring rearrangement and rapid quality degradation. Maintain MEHQ-type antioxidant status if present in commercial material.

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IFRA Combined Rose Ketone Calculation Guide

When using multiple rose ketones in one formula, sum all actuals against the combined limit. Example for a 100g DPG attar compound: Alpha Damascone actual = 0.04g (0.04%); Beta Damascone actual = 0.01g (0.01%); combined = 0.05% in compound. Finished attar = 100% compound (no dilution). Combined rose ketone in finished product = 0.05%. IFRA Cat 4 limit = 0.043%. This combination EXCEEDS the limit — reduce Beta Damascone to 0.003g (0.003%) for combined total of 0.043%. Always use actuals (not DPG solution volumes) in IFRA calculations. Formula compliance is the formulator's legal responsibility in export markets.

Handling & Storage

Storing in Pakistan's Climate

Temperature
Ideal: 15–20°C (air-conditioned). Good stability up to 25°C. Above 30°C accelerates autoxidation of cyclohexene ring double bond. Refrigeration (10–15°C) is optimal for long-term storage
Container Type
Amber glass (primary; UV barrier essential). Opaque HDPE acceptable. Never clear glass or PET — UV exposure causes rapid photochemical ring degradation. Avoid iron/copper vessels — metal ions catalyse autoxidation
Nitrogen Blanketing
Strongly recommended after every use. Displace headspace air in partially used containers with nitrogen from a small cylinder. This is the single most effective preservation measure. DPG 10% solution is slightly more stable due to DPG antioxidant properties
Shelf Life
18–24 months from manufacture date (sealed, ideal conditions). Once opened: 12 months with proper resealing and nitrogen blanketing. GC purity and odour profile should be re-verified before use in commercial batches after 18 months
Measuring Technique
Use 10% DPG solution for all work below 1% in compound — 10× larger quantities allow standard 0.01g balance use. For pure material at ≥1% in compound: 0.01g precision balance. Record actual Alpha Damascone quantity in IFRA compliance log, not solution volume
Light Exposure
Complete darkness mandatory. UV radiation causes photochemical rearrangement of the cyclohexene ring and oxidative cleavage within hours of direct exposure. Pakistan's intense solar radiation makes inner-room dark cupboard storage non-negotiable
Lahore Summer (Jun–Aug)
Outdoor temperatures 42–48°C are the primary risk. Never store in vehicles or unventilated spaces. Maintain air-conditioned storage minimum 25°C maximum. Use insulated boxes for transport; request early-morning delivery. Morning receipt before 9am prevents heat exposure during transport
Karachi Coastal Climate
Coastal humidity 60–90% RH year-round creates risk of moisture condensation on container walls. Seal immediately after every use; use silica gel desiccant packets in storage area; inspect containers periodically for internal condensation. Humidity can accelerate nucleophilic addition to the conjugated enone in acidic/alkaline micro-environments
Quality verification: Genuine Alpha Damascone (≥97% GC) is colourless to pale yellow with specific gravity 0.938–0.948 g/mL and RI 1.4980–1.5020. At 1% in DPG on a blotter strip, it should project a clearly diffusive, rose-fruity-apple character from 10–15cm. Red flags: Violet/iris character instead of rose-apple = ionone adulteration. Weak odour at 1% DPG = under-strength material. Purely floral with no fruitiness = Beta Damascone substitution. No CoA or E:Z ratio confirmation = reject without further testing. Price significantly below international market rates = suspect. Always request batch-specific GC Certificate of Analysis from any supplier.
FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Alpha Damascone halal? What is its exact synthesis origin?+
Yes, Alpha Damascone is Halal by the scholarly consensus of contemporary Islamic jurisprudence. The complete evidence: (1) Synthesis origin: Alpha Damascone is produced entirely synthetically via a three-step chemical route — cyclogeranic acid (derived from plant terpenes such as citronella oil from Java/Sri Lanka or palmarosa oil from Nepal, or from petrochemical isoprene chemistry) is reacted with allylmagnesium bromide (an allyl Grignard reagent, produced from allyl chloride and magnesium metal) in THF solvent at 0°C to room temperature, yielding a homoallylic alcohol intermediate, which is then pyrolysed at 200–350°C via [3,3]-sigmatropic rearrangement to yield Alpha Damascone. (2) No animal-derived materials are used at any stage. No ethanol is present in the pure material. No fermentation at any stage. (3) DPG (dipropylene glycol), used as the diluent in the 10% solution, is a non-intoxicating petrochemical glycol — not an alcohol in the Islamic legal sense — and is widely accepted as Halal permissible across major Islamic scholarly bodies and halal certification organisations. (4) The compound contains no haram (forbidden) constituents. For formal halal certification of finished consumer products destined for Pakistan domestic sale, Gulf export, or European Muslim markets: consult PHDEC, ESMA (UAE), or JAKIM (Malaysia) as applicable to your market. Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide manufacturer halal compatibility documentation for professional accounts on request.
How do I verify the purity of Alpha Damascone purchased in Pakistan?+
Four verification methods are available without laboratory GC equipment. First, the odour test: prepare a 1% solution of the suspect material in DPG on a smelling strip. Genuine Alpha Damascone at 1% in DPG should immediately project a powerful, diffusive, rosy-fruity-apple character clearly discernible from 10–15cm. The characteristic minty-metallic shimmer should be apparent on close evaluation. Red flags: an overly violet/iris character (suggesting Alpha or Beta Ionone contamination), purely floral with no apple-plum fruitiness (Beta Damascone substitution), or weak odour at 1% concentration (under-strength dilution). Second, the density test: weigh 1.00 mL on a 0.001g analytical balance — pure Alpha Damascone should read 0.938–0.948g. Outside this range = adulterated or wrong material. Third, the refractive index: genuine material reads 1.4980–1.5020 on a standard refractometer. Fourth, always request a batch-specific GC Certificate of Analysis (CoA) from your supplier, showing: GC purity (minimum 97%), specific gravity, refractive index, and E:Z isomer ratio. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides CoA documentation with every batch. No legitimate supplier should refuse to provide batch-specific documentation.
How should I store Alpha Damascone in Pakistan's hot and humid climate?+
Pakistan's climate presents the most challenging storage conditions for Alpha Damascone globally, requiring active management of two distinct climate threats. For Lahore's extreme summer heat (42–48°C outdoor temperatures in June–August): maintain air-conditioned storage at a maximum of 25°C year-round; never store in vehicles or unventilated spaces during summer; use insulated cooler boxes for transportation; schedule delivery receipt for early morning before 9am to avoid heat exposure during transit; store in the coolest part of your workspace or in a dedicated fragrance storage refrigerator (10–15°C optimal). For Karachi's persistent coastal humidity (60–90% RH year-round): seal containers immediately after every use using inert gas (nitrogen preferred) to displace headspace air; use silica gel desiccant packets in storage drawers and storage rooms; inspect containers periodically for moisture condensation inside; note that humidity can accelerate conjugated enone reactivity in micro-environments where pH deviates from neutral. For both locations: use sealed amber glass bottles (never clear glass or PET); minimise air headspace in partially used containers by decanting to smaller bottles or using nitrogen blanketing; store completely away from UV light sources including fluorescent lighting; keep away from strong oxidising agents, solvents, and other chemicals that off-gas reactive species. Under ideal conditions, shelf life from manufacture date is 18–24 months sealed; 12 months once opened with proper resealing discipline.
What is the correct usage percentage and when should I use pure vs. 10% DPG?+
The fundamental rule: use the 10% DPG solution for all work below 1% in compound; use the pure form for concentrations at or above 1% in compound. This rule exists because weighing quantities below 0.1g accurately — which corresponds to a 0.1% level in a 100g compound — is difficult even with precision balances, and errors at these trace levels create significant olfactory quality and IFRA compliance issues. The 10% DPG version allows you to work with quantities 10 times larger, making weighing practical on a standard 0.01g digital balance. Critical formula adjustment: 1g of 10% solution = 0.1g actual Alpha Damascone. If your formula calls for 0.04g actual Alpha Damascone, weigh 0.40g of 10% solution. For IFRA compliance: always record actual Alpha Damascone (not DPG solution volume) in your IFRA calculation. For typical attar use at IFRA Cat 4 limit (0.04% in finished oil): use 0.40g of 10% DPG solution per 100g compound; for a compound that IS the finished product (DPG attar), actual Alpha Damascone = 0.04%. For EDP at 20% compound loading: to achieve 0.04% in finished EDP, use 0.2% actual Alpha Damascone in compound = 2.0g of 10% DPG solution per 100g compound. Recommended working range: attar 0.04% (IFRA Cat 4 limit); EDP compound 0.05–0.2% actual (yielding 0.01–0.04% in finished EDP at 20% loading); body lotion compound max 1% actual (yielding 0.02% in finished lotion at 2% loading).
What is the difference between synthetic and natural Alpha Damascone in practice?+
There is no naturally isolated Alpha Damascone available in the fragrance market — the material exists only at trace concentrations (<1 ppm) in natural rose absolute and cannot be economically isolated from that matrix. The practical debate is therefore not between two commercial alternatives but between using synthetic Alpha Damascone versus buying natural Damask rose absolute, which contains trace Alpha Damascone among hundreds of other components. In terms of olfactory performance, synthetic Alpha Damascone at IFRA-compliant levels in a well-designed compound produces a rose-fruity radiance indistinguishable from — and in some respects superior to — the damascone contribution within genuine rose absolute, because the synthetic material is undiluted by other components of the natural matrix. The economic reality for Pakistani production is stark: genuine Bulgarian Damask rose absolute costs PKR 500,000 or more per kilogram at current market prices; synthetic Alpha Damascone from Bio Shop™ Pakistan costs a fraction of this and delivers measurable olfactory impact at 0.04% usage levels. For any commercially viable Pakistani attar or EDP production targeting domestic, Gulf, or European markets, synthetic Alpha Damascone is the only economically rational route to achieving authentic Damascus rose character at competitive price points.
How do IFRA restrictions work in practice? How do I back-calculate for my formula?+
IFRA Rose Ketone restrictions apply to the finished consumer product — not to the fragrance compound. The key back-calculation formula is: (% actual Alpha Damascone in compound) × (% compound loading in finished product) = % Alpha Damascone in finished product. This value, plus all other rose ketone actuals, must not exceed the IFRA category limit. Worked examples for common Pakistani applications: (1) DPG attar (compound = finished product, 100% loading): 0.04% actual Alpha Damascone in attar = 0.04% in finished product. IFRA Cat 4 limit = 0.043%. Compliant if sole rose ketone ✓. (2) EDP spray at 20% compound loading: 0.2% actual in compound × 0.20 loading = 0.04% in finished EDP. Cat 4 limit = 0.043% ✓. (3) Body lotion at 2% compound loading: 1% actual in compound × 0.02 loading = 0.02% in finished lotion. Cat 5A limit = 0.02% ✓. If using multiple rose ketones (Alpha + Beta Damascone, Damascenone), sum all their actuals in the finished product calculation and verify against the combined limit. Record all IFRA calculations in your production documentation — this is required for Gulf and EU export market quality systems.
Which Pakistani consumer segments respond best to Alpha Damascone-enhanced products?+
Four Pakistani consumer segments show the highest commercial response. First, bridal and wedding consumers — this is Pakistan's highest-value personal fragrance occasion, and the bride, her female relatives, and the male members of the wedding party all purchase premium rose-based attars and fragrances. Alpha Damascone's naturalistically rosy-fruity quality reads as premium-quality gulab to any Pakistani consumer trained from childhood on garden roses and high-grade rosewater; its presence in a wedding attar is a decisive quality differentiator. Second, Gulf-facing attar producers: rose ketone-enhanced oud-rose attars command a price premium of 40–60% in Saudi, UAE, and Qatari wholesale markets over comparable products without rose ketone contribution, because Gulf consumers are highly experienced evaluators of Damask rose character and respond immediately to alpha-damascone-generated naturalness and radiance. Third, urban women aged 18–45 in Karachi and Lahore who follow international fragrance trends and associate the rose-fruity-radiant quality of Alpha Damascone with premium imported brands. Fourth, religious household consumers — the tradition of applying rose-based attar before Friday prayers (Jumu'ah) creates a consistent, year-round segment where naturalness and longevity are valued above novelty. Hot-weather performance is an asset: Alpha Damascone's diffusion is enhanced by body heat, making it well-suited to Pakistan's summer fragrance market.
What Urdu brand names work for Alpha Damascone fragrances and how does it perform in heat?+
Recommended Urdu naming vocabulary for Alpha Damascone-featuring compositions draws on the gulab (rose) cultural tradition: گل صبا (Gul-e-Saba, Morning Flower) for fresh rose attars — the name used in this glossary's Formula 1; شبنم گلاب (Shabnam-e-Gulab, Rose Dew) for lighter body mists or colognes; خالص گلاب (Khalis Gulab, Pure Rose) for premium concentrates targeting the Gulf export market; گل میراج (Gul Mirage) for rose-woody EDPs; گل نور (Gul Noor, Flower Light) for women's body care; گل اود (Gul-Oud) for rose-oud oriental concentrates. For product claims in Urdu marketing: "mahakdar gulab" (fragrant rose), "taaza gulab" (fresh rose), "asli gulab ki mehak" (the scent of genuine rose). Hot weather performance is one of Alpha Damascone's defining strengths in Pakistan's climate. Higher skin temperature in Lahore's summer (42–48°C) accelerates volatilisation of the compound from warm skin, creating a more immediate and diffusive rose-fruity radiance in the opening burst — a property that Pakistani consumers experience as genuinely refreshing and quality-signalling in hot weather. The compound's exceptional diffusion (large olfactory radius from skin) means even a small-volume attar application creates a notable and appreciated sillage. Ensure heart notes in your formula are sufficiently developed to maintain the accord as Alpha Damascone's contribution transitions after the first 30–60 minutes.
Full Reference Document

Dive Deeper — Read the Complete Guide

Everything on this page and substantially more — the complete history of rose ketone discovery by Demole and Ruzicka at ETH Zurich (1965), full industrial synthesis mechanism with step-by-step diagrams, comprehensive structure-odour relationship analysis of the entire rose ketone family, detailed RIFM safety assessment data and IFRA restriction rationale, olfactory receptor science for the conjugated enone pharmacophore, landmark perfume attributions (Knowing, Trésor, Beautiful, Ysatis, Opium), natural occurrence data across Rosa damascena fractions and allied sources, FEMA GRAS 3420 food flavouring approval details, advanced Pakistani market segmentation analysis with three complete product concepts (Gul-e-Saba Attar, Gul Mirage EDP, Gul Noor Body Lotion), full stability testing protocol for Pakistan climate conditions, six classic pairing analyses with working ratios, and a comprehensive glossary of 18 key aroma chemical terms — all compiled in one complete professional reference document.