Mulaithi (ملٹھی) ka arq — a time-honoured botanical active harnessing the dual brightening power of glabridin and glycyrrhizin from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Clinically documented for tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory soothing.
CAS 84775-66-6
Identifier
1–5%
Use Level
Permitted
EU Cosmetics
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Quick Reference
At a Glance
INCI Name
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (in Glycerin & Water)
Permitted — not in Annex II or III; freely usable under EC 1223/2009
Skin Type Suitability
All types; especially sensitive, hyperpigmented & South Asian skin
Urdu / Pakistan Name
Mulaithi ملٹھی · Asl-us-Soos اصل السوس
Shelf Life
24 months sealed; 6 months after opening
Introduction
Mulaithi — The Brightening Botanical
Licorice Extract Liquid is one of the most scientifically well-validated botanical skin-brightening actives in modern cosmetic science. Derived from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, this amber-coloured extract delivers a complex matrix of bioactive phytochemicals — glabridin, glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, and isoliquiritigenin — that collectively address hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory discolouration, and oxidative stress through multiple complementary biological mechanisms. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase at an IC50 of 0.10 μM, making it one of the most potent natural brightening compounds known, while glycyrrhizin provides pseudo-cortisol-like anti-inflammatory activity that soothes reactive melanogenesis.
For Pakistani formulators and beauty entrepreneurs, licorice extract represents an exceptional market opportunity. Pakistan’s beauty landscape is driven by the desire for bright, even-toned skin (goray rang / nikhar نکھار), reduction of post-acne hyperpigmentation (PIH), and treatment of sun-induced darkening — precisely the concerns that licorice extract addresses. Mulaithi (ملٹھی) is already familiar to Pakistani consumers through Unani medicine (Asl-us-Soos) and traditional ubtan preparations, providing built-in consumer trust for modern formulations. Combined with Niacinamide and SAP at bioshop.pk, licorice extract forms the most powerful natural brightening system available.
Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note
Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks cosmetic-grade Licorice Extract Liquid in a glycerin/water carrier system. CoA documentation with HPLC-verified glycyrrhizin content available upon request. Suitable for serums, creams, toners, essences, spot treatments, and hair care formulations. Visit bioshop.pk/products/licorice-extract-liquid
Molecular Identity
Chemical Identification
INCI NameGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (in Glycerin & Water)
CAS Number84775-66-6 (extract)
EINECS / EC No.283-895-2
CosIng ReferenceListed in EU CosIng database — permitted botanical ingredient
Chemical ClassPolyphenolic Botanical Extract — Isoflavonoids + Triterpenoid Saponins
No additional brightening benefit beyond 7%; increased amber colour, cost, and formulation aesthetic challenges; specialist treatment only
Above 10%Diminishing Returns
Aesthetic issues (strong amber tint); formula instability risk; no clinical justification; not recommended for commercial cosmetic products
Skin Science
Mechanism of Action
Primary Mechanism
Tyrosinase Inhibition
Glabridin competitively inhibits the copper-containing tyrosinase enzyme at the active site, blocking L-DOPA to dopaquinone conversion — the rate-limiting step in melanin biosynthesis. With an IC50 of 0.10 μM, glabridin is one of the most potent natural tyrosinase inhibitors known. This directly reduces new melanin formation in the basal epidermis where melanocytes reside.
Gene Expression
MITF Pathway Suppression
Glabridin suppresses CRTC1 nuclear translocation and reduces CREB phosphorylation, effectively downregulating MITF — the master transcription factor controlling tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 gene expression. This dual-action mechanism produces more durable brightening outcomes than enzyme inhibition alone, operating at the gene-expression level of melanogenesis.
Melanin Dispersal
Pigment Redistribution
Liquiritin and isoliquiritigenin operate through a mechanistically distinct pathway, dispersing and redistributing existing melanin deposits within the epidermis. This produces immediate improvement in skin tone uniformity while glabridin prevents new melanin formation — a complementary dual-action brightening system unique to licorice extract.
Anti-Inflammatory
Glycyrrhizin Soothing
Glycyrrhizin’s pseudo-steroid structure inhibits NF-κB signalling and 15-lipoxygenase activity, reducing pro-inflammatory prostaglandins and cytokines. This dampens the inflammatory cascade that triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — critical for Pakistani skin types IV–V prone to reactive melanogenesis after acne, waxing, or sun exposure.
Dissolve HA in portion of water (30 min stirring). Hydrate Xanthan Gum separately. Combine all Phase A ingredients including hydrated HA. Add Xanthan gel and mix until uniform. Add Germall below 45°C. Adjust pH to 5.5–6.0 with Citric Acid. Package in amber glass dropper bottle.
Target pH 5.5–6.0. EDTA 2NA protects glabridin from metal-ion catalysed oxidation. The natural amber tint from Mulaithi extract is a positive — position as “natural botanical colour” in product description.
Hydrate Carbomer in portion of water (30 min). Combine all Phase A ingredients. Add swollen Carbomer and mix until uniform. Neutralise with NaOH solution to pH 5.5. Add Germall below 45°C. Final pH check 5.5–6.0. Package in 15ml precision dropper bottle.
Triple-action brightening: Licorice (tyrosinase inhibition) + Alpha Arbutin (synergistic tyrosinase at different binding site) + SAP (dopaquinone reduction). Best results after 4–6 weeks of twice-daily application.
Measure Shampoo Base into batch vessel. Add Coco Betaine with gentle stirring (avoid excess foam). Cool below 45°C. Add all Phase B actives. Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 with Citric Acid. Add NaCl slowly for viscosity (5,000–10,000 cPs target). Add Germall. Fill bottles below 40°C.
Use Shampoo Base as primary surfactant — never list SLES separately. Glycyrrhizin provides scalp soothing from first wash. Position as “Mulaithi + Niacinamide Anti-Dandruff & Brightening Shampoo”.
Similar tyrosinase mechanism; milder overall effect; no glycyrrhizin anti-inflammatory
EU Status
Permitted — no restriction
Use With Licorice
Compatible complement for ultra-sensitive formulations or double-botanical positioning
Pakistan Application
Good for consumers who want a double-botanical brightening story; Shahtoot brand appeal
Verdict: Useful secondary botanical for botanical-focused product lines; licorice is the stronger primary active.
Safety & Regulations
Regulatory Status
Educational reference only. Always consult current EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, FDA guidelines, the ingredient Safety Data Sheet, and a qualified regulatory advisor before commercial formulation. Pakistan formulators should also review DRAP cosmetic notifications where applicable.
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EU Cosmetics Status
Fully permitted under EC 1223/2009. Not listed in Annex II (prohibited) or Annex III (restricted). Freely usable at any technically appropriate concentration in cosmetic products.
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Pakistan DRAP
No restriction on Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract. Permitted cosmetic ingredient under DRAP cosmetic notifications. Bio Shop™ recommends following EU standards as internal quality framework for export readiness.
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Human Safety
Non-irritating at 1–5% cosmetic use levels. Anti-inflammatory glycyrrhizin actually reduces irritation risk. Very low sensitisation potential. No phototoxicity documented at cosmetic concentrations.
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Handling Note
Phenolic extract susceptible to oxidation. Always include EDTA 2NA (0.1–0.2%) and an antioxidant co-ingredient (SAP or Ferulic Acid) in every formula. Avoid iron/copper contamination from equipment or unfiltered water.
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Pregnancy Advisory
Topical cosmetic use at 1–5% is generally considered safe during pregnancy. Avoid oral ingestion of licorice root supplements (systemic mineralocorticoid effects are unrelated to cosmetic topical use at these levels).
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Environmental
100% plant-derived botanical extract from Glycyrrhiza glabra root. Fully biodegradable. No ecotoxicity concerns at cosmetic discharge concentrations. Sustainable when sourced from managed cultivation.
Storage & Handling
Storage Guide
Temperature
Below 25°C general storage. Refrigeration (4–8°C) recommended for opened containers to extend glabridin stability.
Container
Amber glass or opaque HDPE. Avoid metal lids in coastal humidity (Karachi). Never use iron or copper containers — catalyse phenolic oxidation.
Light Exposure
Avoid all direct sunlight and UV exposure. Store in dark cupboard or closed shelf. UV causes gradual colour darkening.
Shelf Life
24 months sealed from manufacture. 6 months maximum after opening. Refrigerated storage can extend sealed life to 30–36 months.
Measuring
Use clean glass or plastic pipette. Avoid metal utensils that catalyse glabridin oxidation. Return to sealed container immediately after measuring.
Pre-use Check
Shake gently before use. Check colour: amber is normal; very dark/black = oxidised, discard; very pale = diluted, verify with CoA.
Lahore Summer (May–Aug)
42–45°C accelerates glabridin oxidation significantly. Refrigerate extract May through August. Add EDTA 2NA 0.2% to every formula using local water supply.
Karachi Coastal
75–90% relative humidity drives moisture ingress through poorly sealed containers. Seal tightly after every use. Use plastic-lidded HDPE (metal lids rust). Air-conditioned storage essential.
Adulteration Check: Colour — genuine is amber-brown (very pale = diluted; black = oxidised). Odour — mild sweet-herbal licorice note (odourless = fake). CoA — request HPLC data for glycyrrhizin ≥2%. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides CoA-backed material from traceable international manufacturers.
Frequently Asked
Common Questions
Is Licorice Extract Liquid halal? What is its exact origin?+
Yes — unambiguously Halal. Extracted 100% from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra (a perennial legume) through glycerin-water extraction. No animal products, no ethanol, no fermentation alcohol at any stage of manufacture. The vegetable glycerin carrier is plant-derived from oil saponification — not animal tallow glycerin. All major Halal certification bodies (JAKIM Malaysia, IFANCA USA, HFA UK, Pakistan Halal Authority) classify plant extracts in vegetable glycerin carriers as Halal by default. Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide manufacturer Halal compatibility documentation upon request.
How do I verify purity when buying licorice extract in Pakistan?+
Request a Certificate of Analysis (CoA) from the supplier with HPLC data confirming glycyrrhizin content minimum 2% for liquid grade. Perform a simple authenticity check: genuine amber liquid with characteristic mild sweet-herbal odour. Very pale or water-clear liquid suggests excessive dilution. Odourless material is likely adulterated with glycerin-only or plain water. Common adulterants in Pakistan include excessive glycerin dilution, substitution with Glycyrrhiza uralensis (different glabridin profile), and glycerin-colour mixtures with no plant actives.
How should I store licorice extract in Karachi and Lahore?+
Karachi: coastal humidity (75–90% RH) is the primary risk — seal tightly with plastic-lidded HDPE, store in air-conditioned space, never leave at ambient temperature in summer. Lahore: extreme summer heat (42–45°C May–August) accelerates glabridin oxidation significantly — refrigerate the extract during these months. Both cities: store in dark location away from sunlight, mark opening date on container, and use within 6 months of opening.
What is the correct use level for maximum brightening?+
The recommended use level is 1–5% for most cosmetic applications. Up to 7–10% for intensive spot treatments. However, above 5–7% does not proportionally increase brightening — tyrosinase inhibition saturates at a certain glabridin concentration. The most effective strategy is combining licorice at an optimal 2–4% with complementary brightening actives (Niacinamide 3–5%, Alpha Arbutin 1–2%, SAP 3–5%) targeting different steps in the melanogenesis pathway — producing synergistic effects far greater than any single ingredient at high concentration.
Is licorice extract safe for South Asian brown skin types?+
Exceptionally well-suited to South Asian (Fitzpatrick type IV–V) skin. Glabridin’s tyrosinase inhibition is most impactful on melanin-rich skin types that produce excess melanin in response to UV and post-inflammatory stimuli. No phototoxicity documented at cosmetic use levels. The anti-inflammatory glycyrrhizin actually protects against post-UV reactive pigmentation. In practical terms: licorice extract is one of the safest brightening ingredients available for Pakistani consumers — safer than kojic acid (sensitisation risk), hydroquinone (EU-banned, side effects), and retinol (irritation, UV sensitivity).
Can I combine licorice extract with Vitamin C and other actives?+
Yes — Licorice Extract + SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) or MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is an excellent synergistic pairing. Both are oxidation-sensitive, so include EDTA 2NA (0.1–0.2%), work at pH 5.0–6.5, and use amber packaging. Avoid high-pH systems above 7.5 which accelerate oxidation of both ingredients. The combination addresses three brightening mechanisms simultaneously: tyrosinase inhibition (glabridin), melanin dispersal (liquiritin), and dopaquinone reduction (Vitamin C).
Which product format works best for the Pakistan market?+
The lightweight brightening serum format (30ml dropper bottle, 2–4% licorice + niacinamide + SAP) is the highest-performing delivery vehicle — suitable for Pakistan’s warm climate, clear ingredient story for K-beauty-influenced consumers, and PKR 1,800–2,500 price point. For the traditional consumer segment, a Mulaithi-branded moisturising cream (1–2%) communicates herbal heritage. For salon professionals, a concentrated spot corrector (5–7%) in a precision dropper targets the large beauty-professional customer base.
What is the connection between licorice and Unani medicine in Pakistan?+
Mulaithi (ملٹھی) holds an honoured place in Unani-Tibb medicine, the traditional medical system foundational to Pakistan’s indigenous healthcare. Called Asl-us-Soos (اصل السوس) in Arabic, licorice root was used by Ibn Sina (Avicenna) and classified as cold (baarid) and moist (ratab). Mulaithi paste mixed with milk or honey has been a traditional Pakistani face pack for skin brightening and smoothing for centuries. Modern licorice extract in cosmetic formulation is the scientifically validated evolution of this ancient trusted ingredient.
The complete Licorice Extract Liquid reference document covers full chemical identification, skin science mechanisms (tyrosinase inhibition, MITF pathway, melanin dispersal), clinical evidence, regulatory data across EU/FDA/DRAP frameworks, advanced formulation strategies with six classic cosmetic pairings, and the traditional Unani medicine connection — essential reading for Pakistani formulators and cosmetic entrepreneurs.
