Ingredient Glossary · Conditioning Polymers

Silky PQ-22

Polyquaternium-22 · INCI: POLYQUATERNIUM-22 · CAS 53694-17-0

Narm gari polymer (نرم گری پولیمر) — Pakistan’s most versatile conditioning polymer. A cationic-amphoteric copolymer of acrylic acid and DADMAC, PQ-22 delivers substantive hair conditioning, antistatic control, and skin-velvety after-feel across pH 1–14. Unique in SLES shampoos, alkaline hair colours, and leave-on formulas. Complete scientific, safety & Pakistan formulation reference.

CAS
53694-17-0
Identifier
0.1–2%
rinse-off
Use Level
EU
Permitted
Regulatory
Scroll
Quick Reference

At a Glance

INCI / Trade Names
POLYQUATERNIUM-22 · Silky (Bio Shop™ Pakistan) · Merquat 280 (Lubrizol) · Conditioneze 22 · Tilamar Quat 2240
CAS / EINECS / COSING
CAS 53694-17-0 · EINECS 611-036-7
COSING Ref 79119 · FDA VCRP: 544+ product uses
Chemical Class / MW
Cationic / Amphoteric Synthetic Polymer
~450,000 g/mol · Repeat unit ~233 g/mol
Physical Form
Clear to slightly hazy pale yellow viscous liquid · ~40% active polymer · Viscosity 3,000–7,500 cPs at 25°C
pH Stability Range
Excellent across pH 1–14 — unique among conditioning polymers · pH of 1% aq. solution: 2.0–5.0
Recommended Use Level
0.1–2.0% active (rinse-off) · 0.5–3.0% active (leave-on) · Calculate from 40% solution: 5g solution = 2g active
Solubility
100% water-miscible · Add to aqueous phase with gentle stirring at room temperature · No heat required
Halal Status
✓ Halal — 100% synthetic petrochemical origin via free-radical polymerisation · No animal inputs, no ethanol, no fermentation at any stage
Primary Function
Conditioning agent · Antistatic agent · Film-forming polymer · Foam modifier · Mild viscosity builder
EU Reg. 1223/2009
✓ Permitted — absent from Annex II, III, IV, V & VI · No concentration restriction · Standard INCI listing only
CIR Safety (2016)
Safe in present practices of use and concentration · Acute oral LD50 >5 g/kg · Non-irritant, non-genotoxic
Key Applications
Shampoo · 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo · Hair colour · Conditioner · Body wash · Lotion · Liquid soap
Urdu / Pakistan Name
Narm gari polymer (نرم گری پولیمر) — Softening / Conditioning Polymer · Narm Baal (نرم بال) in product names
Shelf Life (sealed)
24–36 months at 5–25°C · Never freeze (irreversible phase separation) · 6–12 months opened in Pakistan climate
Introduction

The Conditioning Polymer for Every System

Polyquaternium-22, marketed by Bio Shop™ Pakistan under the trade name Silky, is one of the most technically advanced and commercially versatile conditioning polymers available to formulators today. At its core, PQ-22 is a synthetic cationic-amphoteric copolymer of two petrochemical monomers — acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC) — that delivers outstanding conditioning performance across an exceptional pH range of 1 to 14. This single capability — pH stability that extends from highly acidic to strongly alkaline conditions — distinguishes PQ-22 from virtually every other conditioning polymer and makes it the ingredient of choice for Pakistan’s fastest-growing hair care categories: 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner systems, oxidative hair colour products, and institutional body wash.

The mechanism is elegant: PQ-22’s quaternary ammonium groups carry a permanent positive charge that bonds electrostatically to the negatively charged surface of damaged hair and skin. This “substantive” adsorption persists through rinsing, depositing a thin conditioning film that reduces inter-fibre friction (measurably improving wet and dry combability), neutralises static charge (eliminating flyaway in Lahore’s dry winter), and creates the smooth, velvety after-feel that Pakistani consumers associate with premium personal care. Unlike conditioning emulsifiers (BTMS-85, Cetrimonium Chloride) that require oil-phase emulsification chemistry, PQ-22 operates entirely in the aqueous phase — making it the only conditioner that performs inside an SLES-based shampoo without precipitating. On skin, it reduces the post-wash tightness that plagues conventional surfactant formulas by forming a semi-occlusive film that retards transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — directly addressing a genuine skin care need in both Karachi’s humidity and Lahore’s extreme summer heat.

Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note

Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks Silky (Polyquaternium-22) at cosmetic / professional grade: ~40% active polymer in clear aqueous solution. CoA available on request per batch, confirming active polymer assay, pH, viscosity, residual monomer levels, and microbial limits. Supplied in sealed HDPE containers. Key calculation: 5g of 40% solution = 2g active polymer. Typical use: 0.5–1.5% active in shampoo, 0.3–1.0% in body wash, 1.0–2.0% in conditioner. Visit bioshop.pk/products/silky-polyquaternium-22-pq-22 for current stock and pricing.

Molecular Identity

Chemical Identification

INCI NamePOLYQUATERNIUM-22
IUPAC NameDimethyl-bis(prop-2-enyl)azanium; prop-2-enoic acid; chloride (polymer)
CAS Number53694-17-0
EINECS / EC611-036-7
COSING Ref.79119
Molecular Formula(C₈H₁₆NCl)n · (C₃H₃O₂)n’ — variable-length polymer
Polymer MW~450,000 g/mol (Merquat 280 grade) · Repeat unit ~233 g/mol
Monomer 1Acrylic acid (2-propenoic acid) — anionic/acidic comonomer from propylene oxidation
Monomer 2Diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC) — cationic quaternary ammonium monomer from dimethylamine + allyl chloride
PolymerisationFree-radical aqueous copolymerisation; ammonium persulfate initiator; 40–80°C under N₂ atmosphere
Functional GroupsQuaternary ammonium cation (permanent positive charge) · Carboxylate / carboxylic acid groups (pH-dependent)
CharacterAmphoteric — cationic from DADMAC units; anionic contribution from acrylic acid above pH 4.5
Charge DensityHigh cationic charge density — among highest of common conditioning polymers; controlled by DADMAC:AA ratio in synthesis
Natural OriginNone — 100% synthetic. No natural source, no fermentation route, no animal-derived starting material
Urdu / PakistanNarm gari polymer (نرم گری پولیمر) — Narm Baal (نرم بال) for product naming concepts
Grade & Purity Profiles

Four Commercial Grades

Polyquaternium-22 is primarily available as a ~40% active aqueous solution — the professional standard stocked by Bio Shop™ Pakistan. Additional grades exist for specific applications. Understanding grade differences is critical for formula accuracy: the most common calculation error in Pakistan’s market is treating 40% solution weight as equivalent to active polymer weight, resulting in formulas at half the intended active concentration.

Professional Standard · Bio Shop™ Grade
40% Aqueous Grade
~40% active polymer · Clear to hazy pale yellow liquid · Merquat 280 / Conditioneze 22 class
Active Polymer
~40%
pH 2.0–5.0 (1% aq.) · Viscosity 3,000–7,500 cPs · Density ~1.02–1.07 g/cm³
“The professional standard for all cosmetic conditioning applications. Add to aqueous phase with gentle stirring. Bio Shop™ Pakistan primary stock. CoA with each batch. Key calculation: 5g of 40% solution delivers 2g active polymer in 100g formula.”
Dry Form · Specialty Grade
Spray-Dried Powder
~90–95% active · Merquat 280SD / 280 Dry · Requires reconstitution
Active Polymer
~92%
For dry shampoo powders, solid bars, powder conditioners
“Shipping and storage advantage (lighter, lower volume). Must be reconstituted in water before use — dissolve at room temperature with stirring. Not stocked by Bio Shop™ Pakistan; suitable for specialised dry-format applications only. Not recommended for standard liquid/cream formulas.”
Economy · Diluted Grade
20% Diluted Grade
~20% active · Lower viscosity · Easier pumping · Some suppliers offer
Active Polymer
~20%
Double the solution weight needed vs. 40% grade
“Suitable where pumping high-viscosity 40% solution is difficult. Recalculate all formula percentages: at 20% active, add 10g solution per 100g formula to achieve 2% active. Not Bio Shop™ standard stock; if offered at 20% at the same price as 40%, request CoA and verify the active assay by gravimetric solids.”
⚠ Avoid Without Verification
Adulterated / Unknown
Pakistan grey market · PQ-7 blend · PVA dilution · Undisclosed concentration
Actual Active
Unknown
Water-clear (no haze), no CoA, viscosity far below 3,000 cPs
“Signs of adulteration: product is water-clear without the characteristic slight haze; pH outside 2–5 range; no CoA or batch number. Adulterated material severely under-performs in conditioning tests. Always request batch CoA with gravimetric active solids assay from any PQ-22 supplier.”
Concentration Science

Dosage & Concentration Behaviour

PQ-22 exhibits a clear concentration-performance relationship: conditioning benefits build progressively from 0.1% active and plateau around 1.5–2.0% active. Above 3% active, diminishing returns set in and some formulas develop a slight tacky residue feel. All percentages below represent active polymer in finished formula; when using Bio Shop™’s 40% solution, multiply each active % by 2.5 to find the solution weight needed per 100g formula.

0.1–0.3% active in formulaSubtle Antistatic
Barely detectable conditioning; clear antistatic effect. Suitable for fragrance products, body mists, and lightly conditioning washes. Best in rinse-off systems where even trace polymer deposition reduces post-wash dryness sensation.
0.3–0.8% active in formulaClear Conditioning
Clear antistatic plus foam enrichment; slight to moderate conditioning. Ideal for body wash, liquid hand soap, light conditioning shampoos. The conditioning film is perceptible on towel-dry: measurably reduced tightness. Ideal entry level for Pakistan institutional body wash and household liquid soap.
0.8–1.5% active in formulaFull Conditioning Film
Full conditioning film; excellent wet combability; velvety skin feel. Premium shampoo, 2-in-1, moisturising body wash. This range covers most commercial conditioning shampoo applications — 1.2% active is the sweet spot for a Pakistani urban 2-in-1 product targeting the Lahore and Karachi mass market.
1.5–2.0% active (rinse-off)Strong Conditioning
Strong conditioning; curl retention; excellent wet detangling; suitable for colour-treated or chemically processed South Asian hair. CIR-recommended maximum for rinse-off products. Ideal for premium conditioners and colour-care shampoos targeting urban Pakistani women with chemically highlighted hair.
0.5–3.0% active (leave-on)Leave-On Window
Higher levels permitted in leave-on products per CIR 2016 assessment. Suitable for leave-in conditioners, curl creams, hair serums, and leave-on skin lotions. At 2–3% active, styling hold contribution emerges alongside conditioning. At the upper end, slight tackiness may develop in some formula systems.
Above 3.0% activeOverdose Risk
Conditioning plateaus; film becomes perceptibly tacky or heavy in some formulas. Possible residue build-up on hair with repeated use. No additional safety concern (CIR non-irritant), but sensory and performance penalties appear. Not recommended for commercial formulas. Reserve for experimental or extremely high-damage-repair applications.
Mechanism of Action

Functional Performance Profile

Mechanism 1 · Electrostatic Adsorption
Surface Bonding
PQ-22’s permanent quaternary ammonium groups carry a positive charge that bonds electrostatically to the negatively charged surface of damaged hair (deprotonated cysteine, aspartate, and glutamate residues on the cuticle) and skin (negatively charged lipids and proteins in the stratum corneum). This ionic attraction is not merely surface contact: the polymer chain wraps conformationally around the substrate surface, maximising bonding contact. Unlike hydrogen bonding or hydrophobic interactions, electrostatic bonding persists through water rinsing because it is fundamentally stronger than the hydration forces that carry most ingredients away. This substantivity is the foundation of every performance claim PQ-22 makes. For Pakistani formulators, substantive adsorption means that a shampoo containing PQ-22 continues conditioning the hair even as the lather is thoroughly rinsed away under the shower — the conditioning film remains on the hair fibre surface after the surfactant has been removed.
Mechanism 2 · Film Formation
Conditioning Film
Following adsorption, PQ-22 polymer chains spread laterally across the hair or skin surface to form a continuous nanometre-scale film. This film is the physical basis for every sensory benefit PQ-22 delivers: it reduces inter-fibre friction (enabling wet and dry combing with significantly less force — studies report 25–40% reduction in wet combing force at 1% active), fills minor surface irregularities in the hair cuticle (increasing light reflectance and perceived shine), and acts as a semi-occlusive barrier layer on skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The film is thin and flexible enough to allow normal skin respiration and sebum secretion, avoiding the waxy, coating feel associated with overdosed cationic surfactants. For South Asian hair — typically of larger diameter, higher density, and greater surface irregularity than Caucasian hair — PQ-22’s friction-reducing film delivers particularly pronounced detangling and smoothing benefits, directly addressing the primary hair care complaint of Pakistani women: difficulty in combing thick, frizzy hair without breakage.
Mechanism 3 · Antistatic Action
Charge Neutralisation
Hair acquires static negative charge through two mechanisms: friction (combing, rubbing against clothing and pillows) and water evaporation from the hair surface during blow-drying or air-drying. This negative charge causes adjacent hair fibres to repel each other, producing the flyaway, frizzy, unmanageable appearance that Pakistani consumers in Lahore associate with dry winter air (low relative humidity, October to February) and KPK hill stations. PQ-22’s cationic polymer coating on the hair surface neutralises this accumulated negative charge through simple electrostatic compensation, preventing the charge build-up that drives flyaway. The antistatic effect is strictly physical — no chemical interaction with hair proteins occurs. In Lahore’s dry winter, a single wash with PQ-22-containing shampoo provides antistatic protection that lasts 12–24 hours, making it directly commercially valuable for the urban Pakistani shampoo market. This antistatic benefit extends to skin: in leave-on body care formulas, PQ-22’s film reduces friction between skin and clothing, improving comfort for consumers who work in environments that generate static.
Mechanism 4 · pH-Adaptive Character
Amphoteric Stability
PQ-22’s amphoteric nature — derived from the combination of cationic DADMAC units and the pH-sensitive acrylic acid units — gives it a unique ability to function across the full cosmetic pH spectrum. At low pH (below 4.5), the acrylic acid carboxylate groups are protonated and the polymer is primarily cationic, giving maximum substantivity. As pH rises above 5, increasingly ionised carboxylate groups reduce net cationic charge density, preventing the coacervate formation and precipitation that afflicts purely cationic polymers (PQ-7, Guar HTC) in strongly anionic SLES-based systems. This is why PQ-22 remains crystal-clear and fully soluble in SLES shampoos at normal shampoo pH (5.5–6.5), while other cationic conditioners visibly precipitate and create residue. The amphoteric stability also permits PQ-22’s use in highly alkaline systems: oxidative hair colour formulas (pH 9–11), permanent wave systems (pH 8–10), and alkaline cleansers. No other commonly available conditioning polymer can operate effectively across this complete range, making PQ-22 an irreplaceable ingredient for Pakistani hair colour and chemical service product developers.
Conditioning Film Antistatic pH 1–14 Stable Substantive Film-Forming Velvety Skin-Feel SLES Compatible Wet Combability TEWL Reduction Narm Baal (نرم بال)
Formulation Accords

Three Complete Formulas

Three production-ready formulas from the Bio Shop™ Pakistan reference document — exact weights, verified totals. Formula 1 is a conditioning shampoo (the primary application for PQ-22). Formula 2 is a moisturising body wash. Formula 3 is a premium rinse-out conditioner for colour-treated hair. All three represent distinct high-growth market opportunities for Pakistani formulators.

Narm Baal Shampoo  ·  نرم بال شیمپو
2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo · 100g batch · Urban Pakistani women 18–40 · Lahore / Karachi mass market
Phase A — Aqueous Polymer Phase
Distilled Water45.50g  45.5%
Glycerin2.00g  2%
Phase B — Surfactant Phase
Coco Betaine5.00g  5%
Phase C — Thickening & Preservation (below 40°C)
Sodium Chloride1.00g  1%
Citric Acid Powder0.25g  0.25%
Fragrance Oil (optional)0.50g  0.5%
Method
⚠ Formula correction: Source document listed water at 43.5g; corrected to 45.5g (+2.0g) to achieve verified 100.0g total. Active PQ-22 delivered = 1.5g (3.75g × 40% = 1.5g active). Method: Dissolve PQ-22 and Glycerin in water; mix until clear. Add Coco Betaine then Shampoo Base with gentle stirring — add Shampoo Base last to minimise foam. Cool to below 40°C; dissolve NaCl, add Optiphen Plus, adjust pH to 5.5–6.0 with Citric Acid, add fragrance. Viscosity target: 3,000–6,000 cPs. Shelf life: 12–18 months sealed. Target: PKR 400–800 / 200ml.
Narm Touch Body Wash  ·  نرم ٹچ
Korean-Inspired Conditioning Daily Body Wash · 100g batch · Urban Pakistani consumers 20–45 · Non-greasy moisture for Pakistan heat
Phase A — Aqueous Phase
Distilled Water55.75g  55.75%
Glycerin3.00g  3%
Sodium PCA1.00g  1%
Phase B — Surfactant Phase
Coco Betaine5.00g  5%
Coco Glucoside2.00g  2%
Phase C — Cool-down (below 40°C)
Allantoin0.50g  0.5%
Fragrance Oil (optional)0.50g  0.5%
Sodium Chloride0.50g  0.5%
Method
Active PQ-22 = 0.5g (1.25g × 40% = 0.5g active). Total verified: 100.0g. Method: Dissolve PQ-22, Glycerin, Sodium PCA in water; mix until clear. Add Coco Betaine and Coco Glucoside with gentle stirring. Gradually add Shampoo Base with slow mixing to control foam. Cool to below 40°C; add Allantoin, Germall Plus, fragrance. Adjust pH to 5.5–6.0 with Citric Acid. Add NaCl to target viscosity 2,000–4,000 cPs. Performance: post-wash skin softness measurably improved vs. surfactant-only control. Target: PKR 350–600 / 250ml.
Rang Muhafiz Conditioner  ·  رنگ محافظ
Premium Rinse-Out Conditioner for Colour-Treated Hair · 100g batch · Urban Pakistani women with chemically coloured hair · PKR 500–1200 / 200g
Phase A — Water Phase (heat to 70°C)
Distilled Water82.05g  82.05%
Glycerin2.00g  2%
Phase B — Oil Phase (heat to 70°C)
BTMS-853.00g  3%
Dimethicone1.00g  1%
Argan Oil1.00g  1%
Phase C — Cool-down (below 40°C)
Silk Protein1.00g  1%
Citric Acid Powder0.10g  0.1%
Fragrance Oil (optional)0.25g  0.25%
Method
⚠ Formula correction: Source document listed water at 70.05g; corrected to 82.05g (+12.0g) to achieve verified 100.0g total. Active PQ-22 = 2.0g (5.0g × 40% = 2.0g active). Method: Heat Phase A to 70°C; dissolve HA in water first, add PQ-22 and Glycerin. Heat Phase B to 70°C; melt BTMS-85, Cetostearyl Alcohol; add Dimethicone and Argan Oil. Add Phase B to Phase A slowly with homogeniser. Cool with stirring to 40°C. Add Phase C ingredients one by one. Adjust pH to 4.5–5.0 with Citric Acid. Viscosity: 8,000–15,000 cPs. White cream conditioner. Shelf life: 18 months sealed.
Synergies

Classic Pairings

PQ-22 is compatible with anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactant systems — its unique competitive advantage. Cationic ingredients (BTMS-85, Cetrimonium Chloride) require testing for compatibility at intended levels. The following pairings represent the most commercially successful and technically validated combinations for Pakistani formulation, confirmed from the reference document.

Conditioning Polymer Comparison

PQ-22 vs. Alternatives

Polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7)
Acrylamide / DADMAC Copolymer · CAS 26590-05-6
vs. PQ-22 Performance
Good conditioning and high clarity; less amphoteric than PQ-22 — narrower pH compatibility range
pH Stability / EU Status
pH 4–8 effective range · ✓ EU Permitted · CIR safe
Use With PQ-22
Not typically combined; PQ-22 is technically superior in SLES-based systems. PQ-7 suitable for neutral-pH cleansers only
Pakistan Application
Budget alternative for standard shampoos at neutral pH; cannot substitute in hair colour or alkaline systems
Verdict: PQ-22 is preferred in all SLES-based and alkaline systems. PQ-7 is a valid budget option for simple neutral-pH shampoos only. Available at bioshop.pk/products/pq-7-polyquarternium-7
Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10)
HEC-derived Cationic Cellulose · CAS 81859-24-7
vs. PQ-22 Performance
Excellent substantivity and conditioning; derived from cellulose (HEC) — natural origin claim possible
pH Stability / EU Status
pH 4–9 stable · ✓ EU Permitted · CIR safe · Widely used
Use With PQ-22
Can be combined for enhanced conditioning; however both are cationic — test for clarity and any competing adsorption
Pakistan Application
Excellent for premium conditioning shampoos with natural-origin positioning; less effective in alkaline colour systems than PQ-22
Verdict: Strong alternative for natural-origin positioning. PQ-22 preferred in alkaline colour systems and for superior pH stability. Available at bioshop.pk/products/polyquaternium-10-pq-10
Guar HTC (Jaguar)
Guar Gum Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride · Natural Polysaccharide
vs. PQ-22 Performance
Good conditioning; natural guar origin; can cause slight haziness in clear shampoos; less pH-stable than PQ-22
pH Stability / EU Status
pH 4–8 · ✓ EU Permitted · CIR safe · “Natural origin” label claim
Use With PQ-22
Not typically combined; competing adsorption. Choose one or the other based on clarity and natural-origin claim requirements
Pakistan Application
Suitable for natural or herbal-positioned conditioning shampoos; not suitable for hair colour or permanent wave products
Verdict: Choose Guar HTC when natural/botanical origin positioning is required and pH range is moderate. Choose PQ-22 for technical performance across wider pH range. Available at bioshop.pk/products/jaguar-guar-hydroxypropyltrimonium-chloride
BTMS-85
Behentrimonium Methosulfate · Cationic Conditioning Emulsifier
vs. PQ-22 Performance
Rich standalone conditioning; self-emulsifying; oil-phase ingredient — not SLES-compatible without careful formulation
pH / EU Status
Best pH 4–6 · ✓ EU Permitted · CIR safe · Premium price vs PQ-22
Use With PQ-22
Excellent combination: BTMS-85 oil-phase + PQ-22 water-phase = layered conditioning conditioner formula
Pakistan Application
Premium conditioner backbone; use with PQ-22 for Rang Muhafiz colour-care conditioner and hair mask applications
Verdict: BTMS-85 is the best conditioner partner for PQ-22 in cream conditioners — not a substitute. Together they deliver layered conditioning that neither provides alone. Available at bioshop.pk/products/btms-85
Safety & Regulations

EU Cosmetics Reg. & Safety Overview

Educational summary of publicly available regulatory data as of 2024. Always consult the current EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, the CIR Expert Panel safety assessment (2016), the ingredient SDS, and your regulatory advisor before commercial formulation. Pakistan formulators should consult DRAP cosmetic guidelines. This document does not constitute regulatory or safety advice.
✓️

EU Cosmetics Reg. 1223/2009 — Fully Permitted

Polyquaternium-22 (POLYQUATERNIUM-22, CAS 53694-17-0, COSING Ref 79119) is freely permitted under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. It does not appear in Annex II (Prohibited Substances), Annex III (Restricted Substances), Annex IV (Permitted Colorants), Annex V (Permitted Preservatives), or Annex VI (Permitted UV Filters). There is no quantitative restriction on use concentration and no specific labelling requirement beyond standard INCI listing. Following EU limits (up to 2% active rinse-off, up to 3% active leave-on per CIR 2016) gives Pakistani products an implicit EU-standard quality assurance critical for export ambitions.

✓️

CIR 2016 Safety Assessment — Safe at Current Practices

The US Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (2016) conducted a comprehensive safety assessment and concluded Polyquaternium-22 is safe in present practices of use and concentration. Key data: acute oral LD50 >5 g/kg (practically non-toxic, GHS unclassified); Skin Irritation Primary Irritation Index (PII) = 1.1 (non-irritant); ocular irritation = non-irritant (rabbit study, pure compound); non-genotoxic in Ames bacterial mutagenicity assay. The Expert Panel specifically noted PQ-22 is “a large, highly polar molecule that would likely not be absorbed” — systemic toxicity and endocrine disruption concerns are not expected. Maximum safe use levels per CIR: 2% active (rinse-off); 3% active (leave-on).

✓️

Pakistan DRAP & Halal — Fully Compliant

No restriction under Drug Regulatory Authority of Pakistan (DRAP) cosmetics guidelines. Pakistani formulators may use PQ-22 freely within CIR-recommended limits. Halal status is confirmed by full synthesis chain documentation: free-radical polymerisation of petroleum-derived acrylic acid (from propylene oxidation) and DADMAC (from dimethylamine + allyl chloride) in aqueous solution using ammonium persulfate initiator. No animal-origin materials, no ethanol, no fermentation, no porcine or bovine inputs at any stage. PQ-22 is considered Halal by JAKIM (Malaysia), HFA (UK), and IFANCA (USA). Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide a Halal Compatibility Statement on request for formal certification submissions.

👋

South Asian Skin Safety — Preferred Over Quaternary Surfactants

PQ-22 is safe for all skin types including South Asian skin. Its high molecular weight (~450,000 g/mol) prevents percutaneous absorption — the polymer remains on the skin surface and does not penetrate the epidermis, dermis, or systemic circulation. This is confirmed by the CIR assessment and is a significant safety advantage. PQ-22 is not associated with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — a major skin concern for Pakistani consumers with melanin-rich Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin. As a non-irritating polymer, it may actually reduce PIH risk compared to quaternary ammonium surfactants (BTMS, Cetrimonium Chloride) that carry higher sensitisation potential at elevated concentrations.

🇺🇸

FDA & USA Market — Permitted

Polyquaternium-22 is a permitted cosmetic ingredient in the United States, listed in the FDA Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP) with 544+ product uses documented as of 2013, primarily in hair care products. It does not appear on any FDA prohibited substances list or active cosmetic safety concern list. FDA compliance is relevant for Pakistani brands targeting the US export market or using FDA compliance as a marketing quality claim in the domestic premium market. No restrictions apply.

⚠️

Handling, Compatibility & Stability Precautions

Do NOT freeze — freezing causes irreversible phase separation. If accidentally frozen, thaw slowly at room temperature; if phase separation persists, discard. Carbomer 940 (Carbopol) can cause cationic–anionic polymer interaction — possible viscosity loss or gel collapse; always test for compatibility before use in carbomer gels. High alcohol (>50% ethanol or IPA) can precipitate the polymer — restrict to below 30% in alcoholic systems. Avoid metal containers for the 40% liquid grade — the acidic pH may accelerate container corrosion. Use HDPE or PET containers. PQ-22 is not a preservation system and does not inhibit microbial growth; always preserve aqueous formulas with a standard preservative (Germall Plus, Optiphen Plus).

Handling & Storage

Storing in Pakistan’s Climate

Temperature
5–25°C for longest shelf life. Stable up to 45°C short-term. Do NOT freeze — irreversible phase separation below 0°C. In Pakistan conditions (up to 35°C ambient), aim for 18–24 months from opening.
Container Type
HDPE or PET preferred. Avoid metal containers — the acidic pH (2–5) of 40% solution may corrode metal lids. Glass is acceptable for small lab quantities. Avoid PVC or reactive plastics.
Light Exposure
Minimal UV sensitivity. PQ-22 does not absorb UV and is not photodegradable at the same rate as photolabile actives. Standard indoor or shaded storage is sufficient — no amber glass required.
Shelf Life (sealed)
24–36 months from manufacture date at 5–25°C. Once opened: 6–12 months with prompt re-sealing. In Pakistan conditions (up to 35°C), use opened containers within 6 months for best performance.
Measuring Technique
Free-flowing viscous liquid — measure by weight (not volume) for formula accuracy. Use 0.01g balance for most applications. Critical: always label stored batches with “40% active” to prevent the most common calculation error.
Active % Calculation
Bio Shop™ Silky = ~40% active. To find solution weight needed: divide active % required by 0.4. Example: 1% active in 100g formula = 2.5g solution. Always verify against CoA active assay per batch.
Lahore Summer (Apr–Sep)
Temperatures 35–45°C typical. Store in shaded, air-conditioned location. PQ-22 is chemically stable at these temperatures, but tightly sealed containers are essential to prevent concentration increase via evaporation. Order before May to avoid heat exposure during transit.
Karachi Coastal Climate
Year-round high humidity (70–90% RH). Primary concern: microbial contamination in opened containers and rust on metal lids from coastal salt air. Use HDPE/PET containers with plastic lids exclusively. Re-seal tightly after every use. Never allow condensation droplets to enter the container.
Quality check: Genuine Silky PQ-22 (40% grade) is a clear to slightly hazy pale yellow viscous liquid with mild faint aldehydic odour. Viscosity: 3,000–7,500 cPs at 25°C (significantly more viscous than water; should be pourable but not free-flowing like water). pH of 1% aq. solution: 2.0–5.0. Water-clear liquid with no haze and very low viscosity suggests diluted material (<40% active). No CoA, no batch number, or pH outside 2–5 range = do not use. Always request batch CoA from any supplier before purchase. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides CoA documentation with every delivery of Silky.
FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Polyquaternium-22 (Silky) halal? What exactly is its synthesis origin?+
Polyquaternium-22 is 100% halal, and the explanation is unambiguous: it is produced entirely from petrochemical raw materials through a fully synthetic, non-biological process. The two monomers are (1) acrylic acid, derived from catalytic oxidation of propylene from petroleum refining, and (2) diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC), manufactured from dimethylamine and allyl chloride, both petroleum-derived organic compounds. These two monomers are dissolved in water and polymerised using a free-radical initiator (typically ammonium persulfate, an inorganic salt) at 40–80°C under nitrogen atmosphere. No animal products, animal by-products, porcine or bovine-derived materials, ethanol, or fermentation processes are involved at any stage of manufacture or purification. The final product contains no animal-derived ingredient at any level. On this basis, PQ-22 is considered Halal by Pakistani Islamic scholars and major international halal certification bodies including JAKIM (Malaysia), HFA (UK), and IFANCA (USA). Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide a formal Halal Compatibility Statement (manufacturer’s letter confirming synthetic petrochemical origin) on request for use in product halal certification submissions to Pakistan Halal Authority or equivalent bodies.
How do I verify purity and quality when buying PQ-22 in Pakistan?+
Always request a batch Certificate of Analysis (CoA) before purchase. Four key parameters to verify from the CoA: (1) Active polymer assay by gravimetric solids — should read 38–42% for the 40% grade; (2) pH of 1% aqueous solution — must be 2.0–5.0; (3) Viscosity at 25°C — should be 3,000–7,500 cPs for the 40% grade; (4) Appearance — should be clear to slightly hazy, pale yellow liquid. Visual warning signs without laboratory equipment: product that is completely water-clear with no haze whatsoever, or that pours as freely as water (viscosity far below 3,000 cPs), strongly suggests dilution below 40% active. A practical performance check: make a test shampoo at 1.5% active in Shampoo Base and compare wet combability on a small hair sample vs. a control shampoo without the polymer. Genuine high-quality PQ-22 should produce a measurable improvement in wet combing ease. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides batch CoA for every delivery of Silky PQ-22 on request.
How should I store Polyquaternium-22 in Pakistan’s climate — Lahore heat and Karachi humidity?+
Storage requirements differ significantly between Pakistan’s two major cities. For Lahore (April–September: 35–45°C ambient): PQ-22 is chemically stable at these temperatures — the polymer does not degrade at summer heat levels. The primary concern is container integrity: tightly sealed containers prevent concentration increase through evaporation and protect against contamination. Store in a shaded, cooler location; air-conditioned storage (15–25°C) is ideal but not strictly essential. Order before May to ensure the product is not subjected to extended heat during transit. Never leave containers in vehicles during summer. For Karachi (year-round humidity 70–90% RH): the primary concerns are microbial contamination in opened containers and corrosion of metal lids from coastal salt-laden air. Use HDPE or PET containers with plastic lids exclusively — never metal. Re-seal immediately after each dispensing. Inspect containers periodically for moisture condensation on inner surfaces — never allow condensation droplets to fall into the product. For both cities: the absolute critical rule is never freeze PQ-22 — freezing causes irreversible phase separation. If frozen accidentally in transit (uncommon in Pakistan), thaw slowly at room temperature; if the product does not re-homogenise to a clear, uniform liquid, discard it.
How do I calculate the correct amount of 40% PQ-22 solution to add to my formula?+
The most common formulation error with PQ-22 is treating the solution weight as equivalent to active polymer weight. The correct calculation: if your formula calls for X% active PQ-22 and you are using a ~40% solution, add (X ÷ 0.40) grams of solution per 100g formula. Examples: for 1% active = add 2.5g of 40% solution; for 1.5% active = add 3.75g of solution; for 2% active = add 5.0g of solution. Always specify in your formula whether percentages are on an “as supplied” basis (solution weight) or “active polymer” basis, and include this in your batch records. The recommended use levels are: 0.1–2.0% active for rinse-off products (shampoo, body wash) and 0.5–3.0% active for leave-on products (conditioner, serum, lotion). Most conditioning shampoos perform optimally at 1.0–1.5% active; cream conditioners at 1.5–2.0% active. Verify the active assay from the batch CoA — if a specific batch reads 38% rather than 40%, adjust your formula accordingly: for 1.5% active at 38% solution, add 3.95g (not 3.75g).
Is Polyquaternium-22 safe for South Asian skin and hair types? Any hyperpigmentation concerns?+
PQ-22 is safe for all skin types, including the melanin-rich Fitzpatrick IV–VI South Asian skin typical of Pakistan’s consumer base. The CIR Expert Panel confirmed no skin irritation or sensitisation concerns at use concentrations. The polymer’s high molecular weight (~450,000 g/mol) prevents any percutaneous absorption — it stays on the stratum corneum surface and cannot enter the epidermis or systemic circulation. PQ-22 does not contain photosensitising compounds and does not increase UV sensitivity or melanin production. It is not associated with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — in fact, as a non-irritating conditioning polymer, it may reduce PIH risk compared to more irritating conditioning technologies like BTMS-85 or Cetrimonium Chloride at higher concentrations. For Pakistani consumers specifically concerned about uneven skin tone, PQ-22 should be combined with dedicated brightening actives (Niacinamide, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Licorice Extract) — PQ-22 contributes skin feel and conditioning but has no melanin-inhibiting activity itself. For South Asian hair — typically thick, coarse, and subject to rigorous combing that causes mechanical breakage — PQ-22 at 1.0–2.0% active in shampoo delivers exceptional detangling and friction reduction that is particularly commercially relevant for the Pakistani urban hair care market.
Can I use PQ-22 in hair colour products and alkaline formulas?+
Yes — alkaline stability is PQ-22’s defining competitive advantage over all other common conditioning polymers. Oxidative hair colour formulas operate at pH 9–11; permanent wave systems at pH 8–10; alkaline cleansers at pH 7–9. At these high pH values, PQ-7, PQ-10, Guar HTC, and conditioning emulsifiers (BTMS-85) all lose efficacy or precipitate. PQ-22 remains stable and conditioning-active across the entire pH 1–14 range. The amphoteric character of the acrylic acid comonomer reduces the polymer’s net cationic charge in alkaline systems (preventing precipitation) while maintaining sufficient cationic character for hair adsorption. For Pakistani formulators developing hair colour products — a category that is genuinely underserved in Pakistan’s professional salon supply market — incorporating PQ-22 at 1.0–1.5% active in the colour formula significantly reduces chemical damage to the hair shaft during the oxidative process. This conditioning protection cannot be achieved with alternative polymers at alkaline pH. Note: in highly alkaline systems (pH 11–14), some reduction in effective charge density occurs, but functional stability is maintained far beyond what other conditioning polymers can offer.
Which Pakistani consumer segments respond best to PQ-22 formulations?+
Four segments offer the strongest near-term commercial opportunity. First, urban women 18–40 in Lahore, Karachi, and Islamabad transitioning from traditional oil-based hair conditioning (champi with coconut oil, mustard oil overnight treatments) to modern rinse-off conditioning formats — this is the fastest-growing segment and PQ-22 is the ideal ingredient for 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner products targeting this transition. Second, colour-treated hair consumers — a growing urban segment with essentially no dedicated Pakistani colour-care products available; a PQ-22+BTMS-85 colour-protect conditioner (Rang Muhafiz concept) fills a genuine gap with minimal competitive pressure. Third, Pakistan’s expanding institutional sector (hospitals, restaurants, schools) where “conditioning body wash” and “skin-kind hand soap” commands a 20–30% premium over commodity soap formulas; PQ-22 at 0.3–0.5% active in liquid soap delivers this differentiated after-feel. Fourth, younger urban men in Lahore (barber shop culture) and Karachi who are adopting premium shampoo as part of grooming routines — the antistatic and detangling benefits of PQ-22 are particularly visible on South Asian thick hair and represent a credible performance claim in this segment.
What Urdu product name concepts work for PQ-22 products? How does it perform in Pakistan’s heat?+
Recommended Urdu naming vocabulary draws on the polymer’s conditioning and softening function: Narm (نرم — soft, gentle), Baal (بال — hair), Narm Baal (نرم بال — soft hair), Cheekna (چکنا — smooth/silky), Narm Touch (gentle touch), Rang Muhafiz (رنگ محافظ — colour protector). Complete product name concepts from the reference document: Narm Baal Shampoo (2-in-1 conditioning shampoo for urban women), Narm Touch Body Wash (moisturising daily body wash), Rang Muhafiz Conditioner (colour-protect rinse-out conditioner). Hot weather performance in Pakistan is a strength for PQ-22: the polymer is thermally stable and functions optimally even at elevated skin and formulation temperatures. In Lahore’s summer heat (38–45°C), PQ-22’s electrostatic deposition on hair is if anything more rapid on warm, slightly damp hair, and the antistatic benefit is directly relevant to consumers blow-drying hair after washing. The non-greasy conditioning film — in contrast to the heavy oil-based conditioning that consumers historically applied — is especially commercially valued by young Pakistani consumers in the summer months when heavy products feel uncomfortable on the scalp. For body wash in Karachi and Lahore summer: the post-wash velvety skin feel from PQ-22 film is enhanced by the elevated body temperature, as the polymer deposits more readily on warm, slightly damp skin surfaces.
Full Reference Document

Dive Deeper — Read the Complete Guide

Everything on this page and substantially more — complete free-radical polymerisation synthesis mechanism with diagrams, full molecular structure–activity relationship analysis of the DADMAC/acrylic acid copolymer system, detailed CIR 2016 safety assessment summary, Pakistan market opportunity analysis for three product concepts (Narm Baal conditioning shampoo, Narm Touch body wash, Rang Muhafiz colour-protect conditioner), full compatibility guide covering 18 ingredient categories, pH optimisation strategies for shampoo and alkaline hair colour systems, advanced formulation strategies for 2-in-1, leave-in, and institutional soap applications, storage protocols for Lahore and Karachi climate conditions, and a 20-term glossary of polymer chemistry terminology — all compiled in one complete professional reference document.