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Ingredient Glossary · Cosmetic Actives · Fatty Acids

Myristic Acid

Tetradecanoic Acid · C14:0 Saturated Fatty Acid · CAS 544-63-8

Naryal Tail ka Fatty Acid (ناریل تیل کا فیٹی ایسڈ) — the premier foam-building and emollient fatty acid from coconut and palm kernel oil. The single most important ingredient for creamy, stable sabun lather. Fully plant-derived, Halal-certified, EU-permitted. Complete scientific, safety, and Pakistani formulation reference.

CAS
544-63-8
Identifier
C14:0
54–58°C
Chain / MP
EU
Permitted
CosIng 35442
Scroll
Quick Reference

At a Glance

INCI / Common Names
Myristic Acid · Tetradecanoic Acid · C14 Fatty Acid · C14:0 · n-Myristic Acid · Sodium Myristate (salt form)
CAS / EINECS / CosIng
CAS 544-63-8 · EINECS 208-875-2
CosIng 35442 · FDA 21 CFR 172.860
Molecular Formula / MW
C₁₄H₂₈O₂ · MW 228.37 g/mol
White waxy flakes · MP 54–58°C
Physical Form
White to off-white powder or flakes · Waxy solid at RT · Flash point >200°C · Density ~0.86 g/cm³ (liquid)
Solubility / Log Kow
Oil-soluble · Insoluble in water (<0.01 g/L) · Log Kow ~6.1 (lipophilic) · Soluble in ethanol, ether
Use Level (personal care)
1–10% leave-on emollient · 3–8% rinse-off cleansers · Up to 20% cold-process soap bars
Processing Temperature
Melt at 60–80°C · Add to oil phase · Ensure fully liquid before emulsification · Stir during cooling
Halal Status
✓ Halal — plant-derived from coconut/palm kernel oil via steam/enzymatic hydrolysis. No animal inputs, no ethanol, no fermentation.
Functional Roles
Surfactant/Cleansing (soap salt) · Emollient · Co-emulsifier · Opacifier · Foam generator · Film-forming conditioning agent
EU Cosmetics Reg Status
✓ Fully permitted — not in Annex II, III, IV, V, or VI. No concentration limits. CosIng 35442.
Natural Sources
Palm Kernel Oil (12–16%) · Coconut Oil (8–10%) · Nutmeg Butter (up to 76%) · Human sebum (~4%)
Shelf Life (sealed)
24 months sealed · 6–12 months opened (reseal tightly) · Discard on rancid odour
DRAP Pakistan Status
✓ No restriction — freely usable in cosmetic formulations. PSQCA standards apply for specific product categories.
Urdu Reference
Naryal Tail ka Fatty Acid (ناریل تیل کا فیٹی ایسڈ) · Sabun ka Bunyadi Juz (صابن کا بنیادی جز) — the foundation of soap
Introduction

Sabun ka Bunyadi Juz — The Foam Builder

Myristic Acid is one of the most commercially significant medium-chain saturated fatty acids in the cosmetic industry. As a C14 fatty acid — meaning its straight hydrocarbon chain contains exactly 14 carbon atoms — it occupies a critical functional niche that distinguishes it from its shorter-chain neighbour lauric acid (C12) and its longer-chain counterparts palmitic (C16) and stearic acid (C18). In cosmetic formulations, this specific chain length governs its unique combination of excellent foam generation, creamy texture, strong emulsifying behaviour, and a pleasant non-greasy emollient after-feel on skin. The compound derives its name from Myristica fragrans — the nutmeg plant — which was among its earliest identified natural sources, containing up to 76% tetradecanoic acid in its butter fraction.

For Pakistani cosmetic formulators, artisanal soap-makers, and DIY beauty entrepreneurs, Myristic Acid occupies an especially important position. Pakistan has a deep and commercially vibrant soap-making culture — from traditional handmade sabun bars sold in bazaars across Lahore, Karachi, and Peshawar, to an expanding sector of small-batch premium artisanal soap brands targeting urban consumers and export markets. In soap-making, Myristic Acid is the single most important ingredient for generating the rich, bubbly, persistent foam that the Pakistani consumer equates with cleanliness and product quality. Without adequate Myristic Acid in the fatty acid profile, soap bars produce thin, watery lather that consumers in Pakistan's quality-conscious market consistently reject. Beyond soap, the growing Pakistani interest in DIY skincare formulation — creams, lotions, face cleansers, hair care products — has created demand for a precise understanding of how each cosmetic ingredient functions at the molecular level.

Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note

Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks Myristic Acid in cosmetic grade white flake/powder form, plant-derived from coconut/palm kernel oil. C14 purity >95% GC; CoA available on request. Halal compatibility documentation available from manufacturer. Suitable for cold-process soap (up to 20%), cream cleansers (3–8%), body lotion/butter (2–5%), shaving cream (8–12%), and opaque shampoo (1–2%). Melt at 60–80°C before use; always add to oil phase. Visit bioshop.pk/products/myristic-acid for current stock and pricing.

Molecular Identity

Chemical Identification

INCI NameMyristic Acid
IUPAC NameTetradecanoic acid
CAS Number544-63-8
EINECS / EC208-875-2
CosIng Reference35442 — Permitted; no restrictions or concentration limits
SynonymsMyristic Acid · Tetradecanoic Acid · C14 Fatty Acid · C14:0 · n-Myristic Acid
Formula / MWC₁₄H₂₈O₂ · 228.37 g/mol · Linear: CH₃(CH₂)₁₂COOH
Functional ClassSaturated fatty acid; medium-to-long chain; carboxylic acid terminus
Degree of Unsaturation0 — fully saturated; no double bonds; exceptional oxidative stability
pKa4.89 — weak acid in solution; fully ionised as myristate above pH 6
Melting / Boiling PointMP 54–58°C · BP 250.5°C at 100 mmHg · Flash point >200°C
SAP Value (NaOH)0.241 g NaOH per gram of fatty acid (KOH: 0.339 g/g) — use lye calculator
Natural OccurrencePalm Kernel Oil 12–16% · Coconut Oil 8–10% · Nutmeg Butter up to 76% · Human sebum ~4%
Production RouteSteam/enzymatic hydrolysis of palm kernel/coconut oil; vacuum fractional distillation of C14 fraction
Urdu / PakistanNaryal Tail ka Fatty Acid (ناریل تیل کا فیٹی ایسڈ) · Sabun ka Bunyadi Juz (صابن کا بنیادی جز)
Grade & Purity Profiles

Four Commercial Grades

Myristic Acid is available in three principal commercial grades plus a category of substandard/adulterated material prevalent in Pakistan's grey market. Understanding grade specifications is critical for consistent soap and cosmetic quality. Bio Shop™ Pakistan stocks Cosmetic Grade (>95% C14) — the correct specification for all personal care, soap, and home care applications.

Professional Standard · Bio Shop™ Grade
Cosmetic Grade
>95% C14:0 · White flakes/powder · CoA on request · APHA <50
C14 Assay
>95%
Acid Value 239–251 mg KOH/g · Iodine Value <1.0 · Moisture <0.2%
"The correct grade for all cosmetic soap-making, cleansers, emulsions, and personal care products. White powder or flakes; mild, barely-perceptible fatty odour. Bio Shop™ Pakistan primary stock. CoA and Halal documentation available on request. Use at 1–20% depending on application."
Pharmaceutical / Food Grade
Pharma / FCC Grade
>99% C14:0 · USP/NF or FCC specification · Stricter heavy metal limits
C14 Assay
>99%
FDA 21 CFR 172.860 (food additive) · Pharmaceutical excipient grade
"Highest purity grade; used as pharmaceutical excipient and direct food additive. Significantly more expensive than cosmetic grade. Not necessary for standard cosmetic formulation — cosmetic grade (>95%) provides identical performance. Required for regulated pharma applications only."
Industrial / Technical Grade
Technical Grade
>90% C14:0 · Yellower colour · Higher C16/C18 · Industrial oleochemicals
C14 Assay
~90%
No cosmetic CoA · Possible colour issues · Lower foam quality in soap
"Used in industrial lubricant synthesis, oleochemical processing, and non-cosmetic applications. Lower purity; possible yellowing; stronger odour. NOT recommended for cosmetic use — inconsistent foam quality, potential colour issues in finished products, and lacks cosmetic safety documentation."
⚠ Avoid Without Verification
Adulterated / Unknown
Pakistan grey market · C16/C18 blending · Mislabelled fatty acid fractions
Actual C14 Purity
Unknown
Melts above 60°C = C16/C18 contamination. Rancid odour = degraded material
"Common adulterants: blending with Stearic Acid (higher melting point, less foam), C16/C18 fatty acid mix, or degraded technical-grade material. Visual test: genuine cosmetic grade is WHITE. Yellow or grey = suspect. Melting test: pure Myristic Acid melts at 54–58°C — material still solid at 65°C = C18 contamination."
Dosage Science

Concentration Behaviour

Myristic Acid's functional profile changes significantly with concentration and application context. In soap and cleansing formulations, its soap salt (sodium/potassium myristate) is the foam-generating species. In emollient leave-on products, the free fatty acid contributes barrier support and skin-feel. Understanding the concentration-effect relationship in each context is essential for Pakistani formulators designing products across the full soap-to-serum spectrum. Higher use levels in leave-on products increase the moderate comedogenic risk and should be approached with caution for acne-prone skin types common in Pakistan's oily-skin market.

0.5–2% in Leave-on EmulsionLightweight Emollient
Mild barrier support; light skin-feel modifier; contributes minor emollient character without impacting texture significantly. Ideal for lightweight serums and eye area creams where subtle barrier reinforcement is desired without heaviness
2–5% in Leave-on EmulsionClear Emollient Effect
Perceptible emollient effect; skin smoothing; contributes to emulsion structure and viscosity. Optimal range for body lotion, face cream, body butter, and conditioner. Pakistan winter dry-skin barrier repair. Caution: acne-prone skin — use with non-comedogenic carrier oils
1–3% in Rinse-off CleanserModerate Gentle Foam
Moderate foam; mild cleansing; gentle skin feel post-wash. Ideal for sensitive skin cleansers, baby products, and mild face wash formulas. Low irritation profile at this range; suitable for Pakistan's sensitive-skin market segments
3–8% in Cream Cleanser / NeutralisedRich Dense Stable Foam
Rich, dense, stable lather; excellent sebum removal; creamy foam quality. Premium range for cream cleansers, shaving cream, and cleansing bar formulations. This is the range where Myristic Acid's foam character is most commercial in Pakistan's urban skin care market
8–18% in Cold-Process Soap (Oil Phase)Premium CP Soap Range
Full foam quality contribution; structural hardness modifier. The artisan soap sweet spot — balanced lather onset and density. In Pakistani wedding/Eid gifting soap bars, 10–15% Myristic Acid in the oil blend produces the characteristic rich, persistent foam that commands 3–5× premium pricing
Above 20% in CP Soap Oil PhaseCaution — Brittle Bar Risk
Maximum foam density but bar becomes brittle and fast-setting; increased skin dryness potential. The balance of lauric + myristic + palmitic + stearic + oleic/ricinoleic acids is more effective than simply maximising Myristic Acid. Always recalculate lye amounts when adjusting fatty acid levels
Mechanism of Action

Functional Performance Profile

Function 1 · Surfactant / Cleansing Agent
Foam Generation
Upon neutralisation with sodium hydroxide (NaOH in cold-process soap) or potassium hydroxide (KOH in shaving cream), Myristic Acid's carboxylic acid group reacts to form sodium myristate or potassium myristate — an amphiphilic soap salt with a hydrophobic C14 tail and a water-soluble carboxylate head. Above the critical micelle concentration (CMC ~1.4 × 10−² mol/L), these molecules self-assemble into micelles that encapsulate sebum and dirt, generating the dense, stable, characteristically creamy foam that distinguishes Myristic Acid from shorter-chain laurates (faster but less persistent foam) and longer-chain palmitates (harder bar, less foam). In Pakistan's artisanal sabun culture, this foam quality is the primary consumer quality signal — the "foam test" is how Pakistani consumers evaluate soap quality before purchase. EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009: permitted surfactant/cleansing agent, CosIng 35442.
Function 2 · Emollient / Barrier Repair
Barrier Integration
In its free acid form (uneneutralised, added to oil phase in leave-on emulsions), Myristic Acid acts as a structural lipid analogue to the ceramide fatty acid moieties (ceramide NS and NP classes) that form the lamellar bilayer architecture of the stratum corneum. Applied at 2–5%, it fills intercellular lipid gaps, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and reinforces barrier integrity — a particularly valuable function in Pakistan's dry winter season (December–February, Lahore and interior Sindh) when humidity drops and barrier function is compromised. Fitzpatrick III–V skin types common in Pakistan show higher susceptibility to post-barrier-disruption hyperpigmentation; barrier-reinforcing emollients reduce this risk in post-exfoliant and post-cleansing skin. The mechanism is physical occlusion (lipid matrix reinforcement), not pharmacological. CIR assessment confirms safety at current use levels.
Function 3 · Co-emulsifier / Opacifier
Emulsion Stability
Free Myristic Acid occupies the oil-water interface in emulsion systems, reducing interfacial tension and supporting long-term emulsion stability when paired with primary emulsifiers (BTMS 85, Olivem 1000, cetostearyl alcohol-based systems). In the classic stearic acid/TEA emulsification system widely used in Pakistani lotions and creams, Myristic Acid at 1–2% alongside stearic acid (3–5%) creates a mixed fatty acid/TEA in-situ emulsifier that produces creamy, non-greasy emulsions stable at Pakistan's ambient temperatures. As an opacifier, Myristic Acid forms light-scattering crystalline structures during formulation cooling, producing the pearl-white visual opacity that Pakistani consumers associate with premium shampoo and body wash quality — a commercially important aesthetic signal, especially in the opaque shampoo segment where "creamy white" appearance signals nourishment and quality over transparent alternatives.
Function 4 · Conditioning / Film-Forming
Hair Conditioning
In hair care formulations (conditioners, hair masks at 1–3%), Myristic Acid adsorbs onto the negatively charged hair shaft surface, supplementing the natural sebum film and reducing the coefficient of friction between hair strands. This conditioning film provides slip and lubricity that reduces comb-breakage in wet hair — a benefit of particular relevance for the thick, coarse hair texture common in Pakistani and South Asian consumers, which has high susceptibility to tangle-related breakage during wet detangling. The C14 chain length is sufficiently hydrophobic to adsorb to damaged or chemically processed hair while remaining short enough not to create undesirable greasy build-up. Combined with cetyl alcohol (3–4%) and dimethicone (1–2%), Myristic Acid creates a complete conditioning emulsion system delivering slip, detangling, and shine that resonates with Pakistani consumers who associate thick, smooth hair with health and beauty. EU Cosmetics Reg: permitted conditioning agent, no concentration limits.
Foam Generator Sodium Myristate Emollient Barrier Repair Co-emulsifier Opacifier Hair Conditioner C14:0 Saturated Plant-Derived EU Permitted
Formulation Accords

Three Complete Formulas

Three production-ready formulas from the Bio Shop™ Pakistan reference document. Formula 1 is an artisanal cold-process soap bar (oil phase 100g; lye calculated separately). Formula 2 is a brightening oil-to-milk cream facial cleanser. Formula 3 is a traditional Pakistani brushless shaving cream. All ingredients from bioshop.pk where verified.

Sabun-e-Gulab  ·  صابن گلاب
Artisanal Rose Cold-Process Soap Bar · Oil Phase 100g · Bridal / Eid gifting · Urban Pakistani female 20–40
Oil Phase (100g total)
Coconut Oil40.0g  40%
Shea Butter20.0g  20%
Olive Oil15.0g  15%
Myristic Acid (cosmetic grade)10.0g  10%
Stearic Acid5.0g  5%
Castor Oil8.0g  8%
Sweet Almond Oil2.0g  2%
Lye Phase (calculated separately)
NaOH (sodium hydroxide)~14.2g @ 5% SF
Distilled Water38g (38% of oils)
Rose Petals Powder1g (1% of oils)
Method
CP SOAP FORMAT: Oil phase is 100g. NaOH and water are calculated separately using a lye calculator at 5% superfat. CRITICAL: Recalculate NaOH precisely when adjusting any oil — Myristic Acid SAP value 0.241 g NaOH/g. Method: (1) Dissolve NaOH in cold distilled water; cool to 35–40°C. (2) Melt all oils/fatty acids together to 40–45°C. (3) Combine lye and oils at similar temps; stick-blend to trace. (4) Add rose petals at light trace. (5) Pour into mould; insulate 24h. (6) Unmould after 48h; cure 4–6 weeks minimum. pH 9–10 (cured). Foam: rich, dense, creamy, long-lasting. Target price: PKR 500–800 per 100g bar. Halal: ✓
Nikhar Cream Cleanser  ·  نيكهار کلنزر
Brightening Oil-to-Milk Facial Cleanser · 100g batch · Urban female 18–35 · Karachi / Lahore premium skincare
Phase A — Water Phase
Distilled Water72.0g  72%
Glycerin (plain text — verify supplier at bioshop.pk)5.0g  5%
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)2.0g  2%
Phase B — Oil Phase (heat to 70°C)
Myristic Acid (cosmetic grade)4.0g  4%
Stearic Acid3.0g  3%
Cetyl Alcohol2.0g  2%
Sweet Almond Oil3.0g  3%
GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate)1.5g  1.5%
Phase C — Neutralisation
TEA (Triethanolamine 99%)1.5g  1.5%
Phase D — Cool-down Actives (below 40°C)
Aloe Vera Extract Liquid3.0g  3%
Kojic Acid (water-soluble)1.0g  1%
Germall Plus Liquid0.5g  0.5%
Citric Acid (10% solution)0.5g  0.5%
Fragrance (rose or jasmine)1.0g  1%
Method
⚠ Source document listed water as 62g (total = 90g). Corrected to 72g to achieve 100g. Method: (1) Heat Phase A to 75°C with stirring. (2) Heat Phase B separately to 75°C until fully melted. (3) Add Phase B to Phase A with high-shear mixing. (4) Add Phase C (TEA); mix well — emulsion forms. (5) Cool to 40°C with continuous stirring. (6) Add Phase D actives in order. Adjust pH to 5.5–6.5 with citric acid. Note: Glycerin has no confirmed bioshop.pk URL — verify supplier. Shelf life: 12 months. PKR 900–1,500 per 100ml. Halal: ✓
Barber’s Pride  ·  بربر کریم
Traditional Brushless Shaving Cream · Potassium myristate base · 100g batch · Pakistani male market 25–55
Phase A — Water Phase (heat to 75°C)
Distilled Water45.0g  45%
Glycerin (plain text — verify supplier at bioshop.pk)15.0g  15%
Phase B — Fatty Acid Phase (heat to 75°C)
Myristic Acid (cosmetic grade)10.0g  10%
Stearic Acid12.0g  12%
Coconut Oil5.0g  5%
Phase C — Alkali Neutralisation
KOH 90% Potassium Hydroxide (plain text — verify supplier at bioshop.pk)5.5g  5.5%
TEA (Triethanolamine)2.0g  2%
Phase D — Cool-down Additions
Allantoin0.5g  0.5%
Sandalwood Essential Oil0.5g  0.5%
Peppermint Essential Oil (plain text — verify supplier at bioshop.pk)0.3g  0.3%
Germall Plus Liquid0.5g  0.5%
Distilled Water (balance)3.7g  3.7%
Method
CRITICAL: Calculate exact KOH for specific fatty acid weights using a shaving cream calculator. KOH must be cosmetic/food grade. Method: (1) Heat Phase A to 80°C; KOH will dissolve in water phase. (2) Heat Phase B to 80°C until all fatty acids melted. (3) Slowly add Phase A to Phase B with continuous high-shear mixing. (4) Continue heating and mixing as saponification proceeds (mixture thickens). (5) Add TEA; mix. (6) Cool to 40°C; add Phase D actives. (7) Adjust consistency with balance water. pH 8.5–9.5. Texture: Rich white cream; aerates to dense foam on skin. Note: Glycerin, KOH, and Peppermint EO have no confirmed bioshop.pk URLs — verify suppliers independently. Sandalwood+peppermint resonates strongly in Pakistani barbershop culture. PKR 600–1,000 per 150ml jar. Halal: ✓
Synergies

Classic Pairings

Myristic Acid is compatible with virtually all standard cosmetic ingredients. The following pairings represent the most commercially validated and technically proven combinations for Pakistani formulation, drawn from the reference document. The archetypal foam pairing and the emulsion structural pairing are the two foundational combinations every Pakistani formulator should master.

Foam Architecture (Soap / Cleanser)
Lauric Acid (C12) · Fast onset + myristic density = premium CP soap foam profile Stearic Acid · Foam + hardness + emulsification = complete soap/cream profile Palmitic Acid · Bar hardness + foam balance; structural trio with lauric + myristic Coconut Oil · Natural lauric+myristic source; classic CP soap base oil
Emulsion Structure (Lotion / Cream)
Cetyl Alcohol · Co-emulsifier synergy; creamy texture; structural partner GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate) · Co-emulsifier; pearlescent opacity in emulsions TEA · Partial neutralisation for in-situ emulsifier creation; classic stearic/TEA system Cetostearyl Alcohol · Excellent structural compatibility; emollient body
Cosmetic Actives (Brightening + Soothing)
Niacinamide · Brightening + barrier; myristic in oil phase / B3 in water phase Kojic Acid · Anti-pigmentation; combines with myristic cleansing in Nikhar Cleanser Allantoin · Post-shave soothing; anti-irritant; syndet bar skin comfort Aloe Vera Extract · Soothing; anti-inflammatory; compatible in Phase D cool-down
Body Butter / Anhydrous Systems
Shea Butter · Myristic crystallisation modifier; bridges rich shea with lighter finish Cocoa Butter · Polymorphic recrystallisation prevention; smoother body butter texture Sweet Almond Oil · Non-greasy emollient; oleic acid; skin-feel synergy in body butter Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) · Penetrating lightweight ester; myristic cousin; anti-tack feel
Fatty Acid Comparison

Myristic Acid vs. Alternatives

Lauric Acid (C12:0)
Saturated Fatty Acid · C12 · Coconut Oil Primary Component
Function vs. Myristic
Faster foam onset; highest antimicrobial activity; less dense foam; lower bar hardness contribution
EU Status / Safety
Fully permitted · CosIng listed · CIR safe as used · Not a sensitiser
Use With Myristic Acid
Essential pairing for premium CP soap: lauric gives fast lather onset + myristic provides density and persistence
Pakistan Application
Available at bioshop.pk/products/lauric-acid; combine 1:1 to 1:2 lauric:myristic ratio for best artisanal soap foam
Verdict: Best companion to Myristic Acid, not a replacement. Together they create the archetypal premium soap foam. Coconut oil already contains both (48% lauric + 17% myristic).
Palmitic Acid (C16:0)
Saturated Fatty Acid · C16 · Palm Oil Primary Component
Function vs. Myristic
Superior bar hardness; longer skin-feel; less foam than C14; excellent emollient glide in leave-on
EU Status / Safety
Fully permitted · CosIng listed · CIR safe · Lower comedogenic rating than myristic
Use With Myristic Acid
Soap structural trio: Lauric (foam onset) + Myristic (foam density) + Palmitic (hardness) = balanced premium bar
Pakistan Application
Available at bioshop.pk/products/palmitic-acid; 5–10% in soap oil phase alongside Myristic Acid for hard, foamy bar
Verdict: Complementary hardener. Use 3–10% Palmitic alongside Myristic in soap formulas to improve bar hardness without sacrificing foam quality.
Stearic Acid (C18:0)
Saturated Fatty Acid · C18 · Primary Emulsifier for Lotions/Creams
Function vs. Myristic
Excellent emulsifier (with TEA); very hard soap bar; least foam of the C12–C18 series; waxy skin feel
EU Status / Safety
Fully permitted · CosIng listed · CIR safe · Very low comedogenic rating in leave-on
Use With Myristic Acid
Emulsion structural partner: stearic/TEA creates primary emulsifier; myristic (1–2%) reduces draggy texture; both in oil phase
Pakistan Application
Available at bioshop.pk/products/stearic-acid; paired in Nikhar Cleanser (3%) and Barber Pride (12%) shaving cream
Verdict: Dominant emulsification partner. Stearic is the primary emulsifier in Pakistani lotion/cream formulations; Myristic Acid supports and enhances without replacing it.
Isopropyl Myristate (IPM)
C14 Ester (Myristic Acid + Isopropanol) · Penetration Enhancer
Function vs. Myristic
Excellent penetration enhancer; lightweight emollient; low comedogenic; NOT a soap precursor — no foam generation
EU Status / Safety
Fully permitted · CosIng listed · CIR safe · Different functional class entirely
Use With Myristic Acid
No standard direct pairing; IPM as penetration enhancer + Myristic Acid as emollient in a leave-on system is complementary
Pakistan Application
Available at bioshop.pk/products/ipm-isopropyl-myristate; for anti-grease lightweight emollient feel in body lotion alongside myristic
Verdict: Related but entirely different function. IPM is the ester form — it penetrates skin and enhances active delivery but cannot saponify or build foam. Use each for its specific role.
Safety & Regulations

EU Cosmetics Reg & Safety Overview

Educational summary of publicly available regulatory data as of 2024. Always consult current EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, FDA guidelines, the ingredient SDS, and your regulatory advisor before commercial formulation. This document does not constitute regulatory or safety advice.
✓

EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 — Fully Permitted

Myristic Acid (CAS 544-63-8; INCI: Myristic Acid) is a fully permitted cosmetic ingredient under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. It is not listed in Annex II (Prohibited Substances), Annex III (Restricted Substances), Annex IV (Colorants), Annex V (Preservatives), or Annex VI (UV Filters). CosIng Reference 35442 confirms unrestricted status — no specific concentration limits or mandatory labelling requirements beyond standard INCI declaration in descending order of concentration. EU professional practice follows CIR guidance: up to 10% in leave-on and up to 20% in rinse-off is well within the established safety margin. Pakistani exporters to EU markets can use Myristic Acid without additional regulatory burden.

✓

FDA (USA) — Permitted Cosmetic Ingredient + Direct Food Additive

The US FDA recognises Myristic Acid under two regulatory frameworks. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is freely permitted without any FDA restriction or premarket approval requirement. Under 21 CFR 172.860, it is listed as a direct food additive permitted in food as a flavouring agent and adjuvant — demonstrating its exceptional safety profile. The CIR Expert Panel (International Journal of Toxicology, 2010) comprehensively assessed Myristic Acid and its family of salts and esters, concluding they are safe in current practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. No FDA warning letters or enforcement actions relate to cosmetic use of Myristic Acid at any level.

✓

DRAP Pakistan & Halal — Fully Compliant

The Drug Regulatory Authority of Pakistan (DRAP) does not restrict Myristic Acid in finished cosmetic formulations. Pakistani formulators may use it freely within EU cosmetics regulation concentration guidelines (adopted as gold-standard best practice). For halal certification — a growing commercial requirement for Pakistani brands targeting GCC export, Malaysian distribution, or institutional supply — plant-derived Myristic Acid from palm kernel or coconut oil is fully Halal. The Pakistan Halal Authority and international bodies (JAKIM, IFANCA, SANHA) all accept plant-derived Myristic Acid as halal-compatible without qualification. Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide manufacturer Halal compatibility documentation on request.

🐬

Human Safety Profile — CIR Safe as Used

Acute oral toxicity in rats: LD₅₀ >5,000 mg/kg (practically non-toxic — comparable to table salt). Skin irritation: non-irritating in rinse-off at ≤20%; low irritation in leave-on. Not a skin sensitiser (CIR 2010). Not phototoxic. Not carcinogenic (OECD SIDS assessment). No reproductive toxicity at cosmetic use levels. Not mutagenic (Ames test negative). Eye irritation: non-irritating at cosmetic concentrations in free acid form; myristate soap salt at high concentration may cause transient eye irritation. Log Kow ~6.1 confirms very low systemic absorption — essentially no bioavailability through skin at cosmetic use levels, which underlies its outstanding safety record in rinse-off applications.

⚠️

Comedogenicity Consideration — Acne-Prone Skin

Myristic Acid has a moderate comedogenic rating in leave-on cosmetic applications. For acne-prone individuals — a significant market segment in Pakistan given the combination of Fitzpatrick III–V skin genetics, high sebum production in Pakistan's summer heat, and dietary factors — leave-on formulations containing Myristic Acid should be kept below 3% and paired with non-comedogenic carrier oils (jojoba, squalane, MCT oil). In rinse-off products (soap, cleanser, shaving cream), Myristic Acid presents essentially no comedogenic risk regardless of use level, as it washes away before any pore-interaction can develop. The comedogenic concern applies only to leave-on applications at concentrations above 3–5%.

🌞

Environmental & Handling — Low Concern

Myristic Acid is a naturally occurring substance (present in coconut oil, human sebum) and biodegrades readily in the environment. No significant environmental concern has been identified at typical consumer product release levels. Handling precautions: flash point >200°C — no fire risk at cosmetic processing temperatures (60–80°C). Avoid eye contact. Wash skin with soap and water after prolonged contact. Dust formation during powder handling: avoid inhalation; use dust mask in powder form. Hot melt handling: prevent skin contact with molten material (54–80°C range). Standard cosmetic manufacturing GMP applies. No UN hazardous goods classification for typical commercial packaging.

Handling & Storage

Storing in Pakistan's Climate

Temperature
Below 25°C ideal (below melting point to maintain solid form). Myristic Acid will melt above 54°C but resolidifies cleanly on cooling — no quality loss from brief melting. Air-conditioned commercial storage recommended for >1kg quantities
Container Type
Sealed polyethylene bag (primary) inside lidded plastic or metal drum (secondary). Avoid moisture ingress. Never store in reactive metal containers. Opaque or dark packaging preferred for UV protection
Humidity Control
Moisture is primary degradation risk — accelerates hydrolytic rancidity producing volatile short-chain fatty acids (caprylic, caproic) responsible for rancid odour. Seal containers tightly after every use. Use silica gel desiccant sachets in storage area
Shelf Life
24 months sealed from manufacture date when properly stored. Once opened: 6–12 months with disciplined resealing. Odour indicator: fresh material has mild, barely perceptible fatty odour — rancid cheesy/butyric odour means discard and replace
Melting Before Use
Heat oil phase to at least 65–70°C and hold until Myristic Acid is fully liquid and homogeneous before combining with water phase. Incomplete melting creates fatty acid crystalline particles in finished emulsion — manifests as graininess or white specks. Stir during cooling
Measuring Technique
Weigh as solid powder/flakes on 0.01g precision digital balance. For very small amounts (<1g), melt a larger quantity and weigh liquid portion. Do not return unused melted material to bulk stock without ensuring it is free of contamination
Lahore Summer (May–Aug)
Temperatures 38–45°C in Lahore summers. Material will melt if stored in vehicles or non-air-conditioned spaces above 54°C — re-solidifies cleanly on cooling, no quality loss from single melt-cycle. However, repeated melt-resolidify cycles and UV exposure in summer can gradually accelerate oxidation. Air-conditioned storage strongly recommended for commercial quantities
Karachi Coastal Climate
Karachi's coastal environment (70–90% RH in monsoon season) creates persistent moisture risk for Myristic Acid storage. Seal immediately after each use; store in sealed bag inside airtight container with silica gel sachets. Inspect containers periodically for moisture condensation. Hydrolytic rancidity from moisture exposure is the primary degradation mechanism — more critical than temperature for Karachi formulators
⚠ Adulteration check — Pakistan market: Genuine cosmetic-grade Myristic Acid is WHITE to very slightly off-white powder or flakes. Yellowing or grey tint = oxidation or technical grade material. Melting test: pure C14 melts at 54–58°C — if still solid at 65°C, suspect C16/C18 contamination. Odour test: fresh material has barely perceptible mild fatty odour — strong rancid, cheesy, or acrid odour = degradation. Request CoA from supplier showing complete GC fatty acid profile (C12, C14, C16, C18 percentages). Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides CoA for all batches on request.
FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Myristic Acid halal? What is its exact synthesis origin?+
Yes, cosmetic-grade Myristic Acid is fully Halal. The evidence: (1) All commercial cosmetic-grade Myristic Acid stocked by Bio Shop™ Pakistan is derived exclusively from plant sources — specifically from palm kernel oil (12–16% C14 content) or coconut oil (8–10% C14 content), both tropical plant-derived oils. (2) The production process uses steam hydrolysis (high-temperature water vapour) or enzymatic hydrolysis (immobilised lipase enzyme at mild temperature) of these oils — no alcohol, no animal inputs, no ethanol at any stage. (3) Fractional vacuum distillation isolates the C14 fraction — a physical separation process with no chemical conversion steps involving prohibited substances. (4) At no point does any animal material, pork-derived ingredient, ethanol, or fermentation-derived substance enter the production process. (5) The resulting Myristic Acid is 100% plant-derived and animal-free. Pakistani Islamic scholars, the Pakistan Halal Authority, and major international Halal certification bodies including JAKIM, IFANCA, and SANHA all classify plant-derived Myristic Acid as Halal without qualification. Bio Shop™ Pakistan can provide manufacturer Halal compatibility documentation on request for professional accounts. Note: dairy-derived Myristic Acid (from butter fat) is NOT used in cosmetic grade material and not stocked by Bio Shop™ Pakistan.
How do I verify purity when buying Myristic Acid in Pakistan?+
Always request a Certificate of Analysis (CoA) from your supplier showing the GC (gas chromatography) fatty acid profile. Genuine cosmetic-grade Myristic Acid should show C14:0 minimum 95%, with C12:0 below 3% and C16:0 below 4%. Conduct these field tests without GC equipment: (1) Appearance test: genuine cosmetic grade is WHITE to very slightly off-white — significant yellowing or grey colouration indicates oxidation or technical-grade material; (2) Melting point test: pure Myristic Acid melts at 54–58°C — material still solid at 65°C strongly indicates C16/C18 stearic acid contamination; (3) Odour test: fresh cosmetic grade has a barely-perceptible mild fatty odour — a strong rancid, cheesy, soapy-sour, or acrid odour indicates degradation or technical grade material; (4) CoA cross-reference: verify the acid value (239–251 mg KOH/g), iodine value (≤1.0 g I₂/100g), and moisture (<0.2%) from the CoA match the expected range. In soap-making, a practical performance test is the most definitive: a CP soap with 10% Myristic Acid should produce noticeably denser, more stable foam than a control batch without — if foam quality is similar, the Myristic Acid purity may be insufficient. Bio Shop™ Pakistan provides CoA for all batches on request.
How should I store Myristic Acid in Pakistan's hot and humid climate?+
Storage requires management of two distinct climate risks depending on location. For Lahore's extreme summer heat (38–45°C, May–August): Myristic Acid will melt if ambient temperature exceeds its 54–58°C melting point — unlikely in most indoor environments but possible in vehicles or uninsulated workshops. Melting and resolidifying does NOT damage quality if it happens once; repeated melt-cycles and UV exposure over summer gradually accelerate oxidation. Store in air-conditioned environment for commercial quantities. Never leave in vehicles during summer. For Karachi's coastal humidity (70–90% RH during monsoon, year-round 60–80% RH): moisture is the primary risk — even trace water contact over time triggers hydrolytic rancidity via lipase-mediated breakdown, producing volatile short-chain fatty acids responsible for cheesy-rancid odour. Seal containers immediately after every use; store in sealed polyethylene bag inside airtight container; use silica gel desiccant sachets. In both locations: use opaque containers to minimise UV exposure; maintain below 25°C for optimal shelf life; transfer to smaller containers to minimise headspace once bulk is partially used. Shelf life: 24 months sealed; 6–12 months opened.
How much Myristic Acid should I add to my cold-process soap for better foam?+
In cold-process soap, the optimal Myristic Acid range is 8–18% of total oils, with a practical sweet spot at 10–15% for premium artisanal bars. Beyond 20%, bars can become brittle, fast-setting, and potentially more drying on skin — more Myristic Acid does not always equal better foam. The key principle: balance the fatty acid profile. The ideal premium CP soap profile pairs Myristic Acid (10–15% for foam density) with Lauric Acid via coconut oil (for foam onset), Palmitic/Stearic Acid (for bar hardness and longevity), and Oleic/Ricinoleic Acid via olive oil and castor oil (for skin conditioning and superfat benefits). A formula with 40% coconut oil already provides approximately 7–8% myristic acid equivalent — adding 10% pure Myristic Acid on top increases the total to 17–18% in the oil blend, which is optimal. CRITICAL: every time you add or change Myristic Acid levels, you MUST recalculate your lye amount using a reliable soap calculator (Myristic Acid SAP value: 0.241 g NaOH/g or 0.339 g KOH/g). Incorrect lye calculation produces either caustic (lye-heavy) or soft sticky (over-superfatted) soap — the most common beginner mistake when adding pure fatty acids.
Is Myristic Acid safe for Pakistani skin types, including acne-prone and oily skin?+
Yes, with important context. Pakistani skin is predominantly Fitzpatrick Types III–V, characterised by higher melanin content, tendency toward post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), higher sebum production in hot and humid conditions, and a climatic environment (Lahore 42°C summers; Karachi 35°C with high humidity) that drives significant sebaceous gland activity year-round. In rinse-off applications — soap, cream cleanser, shaving cream — Myristic Acid is safe at any standard use level for all Pakistani skin types, including acne-prone. It rinses away completely before any comedogenic interaction can occur. In leave-on applications — moisturisers, body butters, face creams — the moderate comedogenic rating becomes relevant: keep use levels below 3% for acne-prone or oily skin; pair with non-comedogenic carrier oils (jojoba, squalane, MCT fractionated coconut); and test on a small patch area first. For dry skin common in Pakistani winter (December–February, particularly Lahore and interior Punjab), Myristic Acid's barrier-reinforcing emollient properties are a direct benefit at 3–5% in body lotion or cream. Myristic Acid does not cause photosensitivity and is not a known skin sensitiser.
Can I combine Myristic Acid with Niacinamide, Kojic Acid, or AHAs?+
Myristic Acid is broadly compatible with most cosmetic actives. With Niacinamide: excellent compatibility — both contribute to the Nikhar Cream Cleanser formulation; Myristic Acid in the oil phase and Niacinamide in the water phase; combined brightening (Niacinamide inhibits melanin transfer) plus barrier function (Myristic Acid emollient) is a highly effective anti-pigmentation strategy for Pakistani hyperpigmentation concerns, which are the number-one skincare market priority. With Kojic Acid: compatible in the same cream cleanser formula; Kojic Acid works best at pH 5–6 (compatible with Myristic Acid's function range); excellent brightening + cleansing combination for Pakistan's dark-spot-focused market. With AHAs (Lactic, Glycolic, Mandelic Acid): Myristic Acid is chemically stable in acidic environments — no direct incompatibility; the concern is overall emulsion stability at low pH. At the low pH required for optimal AHA activity (pH 3–4), partial conversion back to free fatty acid from any soap salt may affect emulsion structure — always test stability of the complete formulation. With Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid): both are acidic; formulate carefully and test pH stability. With Allantoin: excellent pairing for post-shave and soothing applications — both present in Barber's Pride formula.
What Pakistani consumer segments respond best to Myristic Acid products?+
Four Pakistani consumer segments offer the strongest commercial opportunities. First, the artisanal cold-process soap segment — growing rapidly among urban Pakistani consumers (Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad) who seek premium, natural, story-rich alternatives to mass-market soap brands. Myristic Acid is the key quality differentiator: soap marketed on its foam richness, natural plant origin, and Halal credentials can command 3–5× the price per unit of commodity soap in Pakistan's gift, online, and specialty retail channels. Second, Pakistani female consumers aged 18–35 in Karachi and Lahore actively seeking cream cleansers and oil-to-milk formulas as gentler alternatives to drying gel cleansers — a K-beauty-influenced trend growing strongly through social media beauty communities. Third, the male grooming market — Pakistan's large and growing male grooming segment is predominantly served by imported aerosol shaving products, leaving significant space for a locally produced, natural, Halal, Myristic-Acid-based brushless shaving cream at a competitive price. Fourth, the bridal and Eid gifting market for premium artisanal soap sets — beautifully packaged handmade sabun bars centred on Myristic Acid's natural credentials and superior foam quality are perfectly positioned for Pakistan's high-value gift retail and online wedding market.
What Urdu brand names work for Myristic Acid products? How does it perform in Pakistan's heat?+
Recommended Urdu naming vocabulary for Myristic Acid-featuring products draws on soap culture, purity, and natural ingredients: Sabun (صابن — soap), Gulab (گلاب — rose), Nikhar (نکھار — glow/radiance), Safai (صفائی — cleanliness), Khushbu (خوشبو — fragrance), Aaina (آئینہ — mirror/clarity). Example product names: Sabun-e-Gulab (صابن گلاب — rose soap, for CP artisanal bars); Nikhar Cream Cleanser (نکھار — brightening, for oil-to-milk facial cleanser); Barber ki Shaan (برادر کی شان — pride of the barber, for shaving cream); Pak Sahaj (پاک سہیج — pure gentle, for sensitive cleansing bars); Sabun-e-Oud (صابن عود — oud soap, for luxury artisanal bar). Performance in Pakistan's heat: Myristic Acid's cleansing function is actually enhanced in Pakistan's summer heat — higher skin temperature and greater sebum production increase the demand for effective, creamy foam that removes excess oil without stripping. The dense, stable foam of sodium myristate is experienced as premium quality precisely because it persists through the increased lather volume of hot, sweaty skin. For leave-on emollient products in summer, lighter formulations (2–3% Myristic Acid) are preferred; in winter, higher levels (4–5%) deliver the barrier support that Pakistani consumers in Lahore and interior regions need against dry, cold, low-humidity conditions.
Complete Your Palette

Essential Companions

Fatty Acid · C12
Lauric Acid
Archetypal foam duo: lauric (fast onset) + myristic (density) = premium CP soap. Essential pairing
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Fatty Acid · C18
Stearic Acid
Emulsifier partner: stearic/TEA creates lotion structure; myristic softens draggy texture. Also in shaving cream
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Fatty Acid · C16
Palmitic Acid
Structural trio: lauric + myristic + palmitic = balanced foam, hardness, and longevity in CP soap
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Carrier Oil · Natural
Coconut Oil
Natural lauric + myristic source; 40% inclusion in CP soap provides the C12+C14 foam base
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Alkali · Soap Making
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
Saponification alkali for hard soap bars; converts myristic acid to sodium myristate — the foam-generating salt
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Fatty Alcohol · Co-emulsifier
Cetyl Alcohol
Co-emulsifier synergy; creamy texture partner to myristic in lotions, conditioners, and cream cleansers
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Cosmetic Active · Brightening
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Brightening + barrier synergy: Nikhar Cleanser pairing. Myristic foam base + niacinamide anti-pigmentation
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Ester · Penetration Enhancer
Isopropyl Myristate (IPM)
C14 ester cousin of myristic acid; lightweight penetrating emollient; anti-tack feel in leave-on products
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Full Reference Document

Dive Deeper — Read the Complete Guide

Everything on this page and substantially more — complete saponification chemistry with step-by-step reaction diagrams for NaOH and KOH soap systems, full structure-activity relationship analysis of C12–C18 fatty acid chain length effects, detailed CIR safety assessment data tables, historical development of industrial fatty acid fractionation, landmark cosmetic product analysis (Palmolive shaving cream heritage), complete SAP value tables for soap calculator use, advanced cold-process soap formulation strategies with full fatty acid profiling methodology, Pakistani artisanal soap market sizing and price positioning analysis, Fitzpatrick III–V skin compatibility assessment, complete compatibility tables with 14+ cosmetic ingredient categories, shaving cream chemistry deep-dive (potassium myristate vs. sodium myristate), and a comprehensive 16-term glossary covering every technical term from CMC to TEWL — all compiled in one complete professional reference document.

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