Ingredient Glossary · Cosmetic Active

L-Glutathione

(2S)-2-amino-5-[[(2R)-1-(carboxymethylamino)-1-oxo-3-sulfanylpropan-2-yl]amino]-5-oxopentanoic acid · روشن پوست
The body's master antioxidant — a cysteine-glutamate-glycine tripeptide that inhibits tyrosinase, shifts melanin synthesis from dark eumelanin toward lighter pheomelanin, and scavenges free radicals. Roshan Pust (روشن پوست) — Pakistan ki chamak ka raaz.
70-18-8
CAS Number
0.5–2%
Use Level
EU Permitted
Regulatory
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At a Glance
Quick Reference
IUPAC Name
γ-L-Glutamyl-L-cysteinyl-glycine
CAS / INCI
70-18-8 / GLUTATHIONE
Formula / MW
C₁₀H₁₇N₃O₆S / 307.32 g/mol
Physical Form
White to off-white crystalline powder
pH (1% Solution)
3.0–4.0 (formulate at pH 5.0–6.0)
Solubility
Freely soluble in water; insoluble in ethanol, ether
Melting Point
192–195 °C (decomposition)
Halal Status
Conditional — verify fermentation media
Mechanism
Tyrosinase inhibition + eumelanin→pheomelanin shift + ROS scavenging (triple mechanism)
Key Properties
Antioxidant, skin brightening, anti-melanogenic, detoxification, glutathione cycle
Regulatory Status
EU: Permitted (not in Annex) · FDA: GRAS oral / unrestricted topical · DRAP: No restriction
Origin / Production
Yeast fermentation (Torula or Saccharomyces); enzymatic coupling of L-cysteine + L-glutamate + glycine
Urdu / Pakistan Name
Roshan Pust (روشن پوست) · Safaid Dawa (سفید دوا)
Shelf Life
24 months sealed at 2–25 °C; protect from light, heat, and moisture
Introduction
The Master Antioxidant

L-Glutathione (GSH) is a tripeptide composed of three amino acids — L-glutamic acid, L-cysteine, and glycine — linked through an unusual γ-peptide bond. Present in virtually every human cell, it serves as the body's primary intracellular antioxidant and detoxification agent. In cosmetic science, reduced L-Glutathione has emerged as one of the most researched skin-brightening actives, operating through a triple mechanism: direct tyrosinase inhibition, shifting melanogenesis from dark eumelanin toward lighter pheomelanin, and neutralising reactive oxygen species that trigger melanocyte activation.

For Pakistani formulators, L-Glutathione addresses the significant demand for safe, effective brightening actives among South Asian skin types (Fitzpatrick III–V). Unlike hydroquinone — which carries toxicity concerns and is restricted in many markets — Glutathione offers a well-tolerated mechanism suitable for daily-use serums, ampoules, and wash-off products. Its water solubility makes it straightforward to incorporate into aqueous phases, though pH management (optimal 5.0–6.0) and antioxidant protection of the formulation itself are critical for maintaining the reduced (active) form.

Commercial cosmetic-grade L-Glutathione is produced via yeast fermentation — predominantly using Torula yeast or engineered Saccharomyces cerevisiae — followed by enzymatic coupling and purification. The resulting white crystalline powder carries a characteristic mild sulfurous note from its free thiol group, the very functional group responsible for its antioxidant activity.

Bio Shop™ Pakistan — Sourcing Note

Bio Shop™ imports pharmaceutical-grade L-Glutathione (reduced form, ≥98% purity by HPLC) from verified fermentation facilities with full CoA documentation including HPLC purity, heavy metals panel, and microbial limits. Every batch is stored under cold-chain conditions until dispatch. Available at bioshop.pk.

Chemical Identity
Molecular Profile
IUPAC Name(2S)-2-amino-5-[[(2R)-1-(carboxymethylamino)-1-oxo-3-sulfanylpropan-2-yl]amino]-5-oxopentanoic acid
Common NameL-Glutathione (Reduced) / GSH
CAS Number70-18-8
EINECS200-725-4
INCIGLUTATHIONE
CosIng Ref34021
Molecular FormulaC₁₀H₁₇N₃O₆S
Molecular Weight307.32 g/mol
Structural ClassTripeptide (γ-L-glutamyl-L-cysteinyl-glycine)
Functional GroupFree thiol (–SH) on cysteine residue — redox-active centre
Optical Rotation[α]²⁰/D = −17° (c=2, H₂O)
Synthesis RouteYeast fermentation (Torula / S. cerevisiae) → enzymatic coupling → purification → lyophilisation
Urdu NameRoshan Pust (روشن پوست) · Safaid Dawa (سفید دوا)
Grade Profiles
Quality Tiers
Pharmaceutical
USP/EP Grade
Japan · China (GMP facilities)
Purity (HPLC)
≥99%
Reduced L-Glutathione
Gold standard for oral supplements and injectable formulations. Full pharmacopoeia compliance with heavy metals ≤10 ppm and endotoxin testing.
Cosmetic
High-Purity Cosmetic
China · USA (fermentation)
Purity (HPLC)
≥98%
Reduced L-Glutathione
Recommended for topical serums, ampoules, and premium skincare. CoA with HPLC, heavy metals, and microbial limits. Bio Shop™ standard grade.
Economy
Standard Grade
China (bulk fermentation)
Purity (HPLC)
≥95%
Reduced L-Glutathione
Suitable for wash-off products (shampoos, body washes) where contact time is limited. May contain higher GSSG (oxidised form). Request CoA.
Warning
Oxidised (GSSG)
Degraded / mislabelled stock
Active GSH Content
<90%
Glutathione Disulfide (inactive)
Yellowed powder with strong sulfurous smell indicates oxidation. GSSG has minimal skin-brightening activity. Reject any batch showing discolouration or failing HPLC ≥95%.
Concentration Behaviour
Use Levels & Dosing
Brightening Serum (Leave-on)0.5–2%
Primary brightening application. Visible results at 1% after 8–12 weeks. Synergises with Vitamin C derivatives (SAP, MAP) and Niacinamide.
Intensive Ampoule2–5%
Short-course intensive treatment (4–8 weeks). Higher concentrations require careful pH buffering and airless packaging to prevent oxidation.
Cream / Lotion0.5–1%
Maintenance-level incorporation in emulsions. Add to water phase below 40°C after emulsification to preserve reduced form.
Shampoo / Body Wash0.3–1%
Scalp brightening and antioxidant protection. Limited contact time means lower efficacy — combine with conditioning agents for hair benefit.
Sheet Mask Essence1–3%
Occlusive delivery enhances penetration. Single-dose sachets prevent oxidation. Popular format in Pakistan's K-beauty influenced market.
Overdose / Instability Risk>5%
Above 5% in aqueous systems, rapid auto-oxidation occurs. Formulation turns yellow within days. No additional brightening benefit. Waste of expensive active.
Functional Performance
Triple Mechanism
Mechanism 1 · Enzyme Inhibition
Tyrosinase Suppression
L-Glutathione directly inhibits tyrosinase — the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin biosynthesis — by chelating the copper ions at its active site. This reduces the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-DOPA and subsequently to dopaquinone, effectively slowing the entire melanogenic cascade at its origin point.
Mechanism 2 · Melanin Switching
Eumelanin → Pheomelanin
Even when melanogenesis proceeds, GSH redirects the pathway. By conjugating with dopaquinone via its thiol group, Glutathione diverts synthesis away from dark-brown eumelanin toward yellow-red pheomelanin. This "melanin switching" produces a visible lightening effect without fully suppressing melanocyte function — a safer mechanism than bleaching agents.
Mechanism 3 · Antioxidant Defence
ROS Scavenging
UV radiation and pollution generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) that activate melanocytes through the p53/POMC pathway. As the body's primary intracellular antioxidant, GSH neutralises these ROS — preventing the oxidative stress signal that triggers hyperpigmentation. This mechanism is especially relevant in Pakistan's high-UV, high-pollution urban environments (Lahore, Karachi).
Tyrosinase Inhibitor Melanin Switch ROS Scavenger Thiol-Active Detoxification Glutathione Cycle Anti-Melanogenic Copper Chelation pH-Sensitive Redox-Active
Formulation Lab
Three Formulas
Roshan Raat Serum · روشن رات سیرم
Brightening Night Serum — Roshan Raat Serum — Leave-on · 100g batch
Method
Dissolve Carbomer 940 in distilled water, allow to hydrate 20 min. Neutralise with NaOH solution to form gel. In separate vessel, dissolve GSH, SAP, Niacinamide, Ferulic Acid, EDTA in rose water at room temperature. Combine both phases. Add HA (pre-hydrated), Sodium PCA, Allantoin. Add Germall Plus last. Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5. Package in opaque airless pump. Use nightly — follow with SPF in morning. Shelf life: 6 months at 15–25 °C.
Glow Ampoule · گلو ایمپول
Intensive Brightening Ampoule — Glow Ampoule — Leave-on · 100g batch
Method
Disperse Xanthan Gum in distilled water with high-shear mixing. Dissolve GSH, MAP, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Ferulic Acid in Propanediol at room temperature. Combine both phases slowly. Add pre-hydrated HA. Add Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin. Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 with Citric Acid. Add EDTA last. Fill into single-dose ampoules or airless vials under nitrogen blanket. 4-week intensive course, apply nightly. Shelf life: 12 months sealed; 48 hours once opened.
Chamak Shampoo · چمک شیمپو
Brightening Scalp & Hair Shampoo — Chamak Shampoo — Wash-off · 100g batch
Method
Warm Shampoo Base to 40°C. Add Coco Betaine and Coco Glucoside, stir gently. Melt EGDS separately at 65°C, add to base. Dissolve GSH, Niacinamide, D-Panthenol in distilled water at room temp, add to cooled base (below 40°C). Add Jaguar and PQ-10 (pre-dispersed). Add NaCl gradually to desired viscosity. Add Rosemary EO and Germall Plus. Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 with Citric Acid. Lather on scalp 2–3 minutes before rinsing. Shelf life: 18 months.
Synergy Partners
Ingredient Pairings
Comparisons
How It Compares
Alpha Arbutin
4-Hydroxyphenyl α-D-glucopyranoside
Mechanism
Competitive tyrosinase inhibitor (single mechanism vs GSH's triple)
Stability
More stable than GSH; no oxidation concern
Use With GSH
Excellent synergy — different inhibition sites on tyrosinase
Pakistan Market
Very popular; often combined with GSH in premium serums
Alpha Arbutin is the more stable partner; GSH provides broader antioxidant protection. Use together for superior brightening.
Kojic Acid (Water Soluble)
5-Hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one
Mechanism
Copper chelation at tyrosinase active site — similar to GSH
Stability
Also oxidation-prone; both darken when degraded
Use With GSH
Good synergy at low levels; both require pH 5–6 and antioxidant protection
Pakistan Market
Kojic Acid more affordable; GSH positioned as premium active
Both share copper-chelation mechanism but GSH adds melanin-switching and antioxidant benefits. Combine carefully — total copper chelators should not exceed 3%.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Pyridine-3-carboxamide
Mechanism
Blocks melanosome transfer (does NOT inhibit tyrosinase)
Stability
Highly stable; no oxidation issues
Use With GSH
Perfect complementary pair — GSH stops melanin production, Niacinamide stops melanin delivery
Pakistan Market
Niacinamide is the #1 cosmetic active in Pakistan; adding GSH creates premium positioning
Different points in the melanin pathway — truly synergistic. Every GSH serum should contain 3–5% Niacinamide as standard.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
L-threo-Hex-2-enono-1,4-lactone
Mechanism
Reduces dopaquinone back to DOPA + antioxidant; requires pH 2.5–3.5
Stability
Extremely unstable (worse than GSH); oxidises to dehydroascorbic acid
Use With GSH
Use stable derivatives (SAP, MAP) instead — L-AA's low pH destroys GSH
Pakistan Market
L-AA serums popular but formulation-challenging; GSH + SAP is the professional alternative
Never combine GSH with pure L-Ascorbic Acid — pH conflict. Use SAP (pH 6) or MAP (pH 7) as stable Vitamin C partners for GSH formulations.
Safety & Regulatory
Compliance Profile
Professional formulator reference only. Always conduct stability testing, patch testing, and consult current regulatory databases before commercial launch. Regulations may change — verify against latest EU CosIng, FDA, and DRAP guidance.

EU Cosmetics Regulation

L-Glutathione (INCI: GLUTATHIONE) is permitted in EU cosmetics with no Annex restriction. Not listed in Annex II (prohibited), Annex III (restricted), or Annex IV (colorants). No maximum concentration limit specified. CosIng reference: 34021. Classified as skin conditioning agent and antioxidant.

FDA Status (USA)

Generally Recognised as Safe (GRAS) for oral use. No restrictions on topical cosmetic use. Listed in UNII database (SUB ID: GAN16C9B8O). No NDA required for cosmetic applications.

Pakistan DRAP

No specific restriction on topical L-Glutathione in cosmetic products. DRAP regulates injectable glutathione separately (requires drug registration). Topical powder for formulation is classified as cosmetic raw material.

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Halal Status — Conditional

L-Glutathione produced via yeast fermentation (Torula, S. cerevisiae) is halal provided the fermentation growth media is free from haram-origin inputs (animal-derived peptones, ethanol-based nutrients). Request supplier's halal certificate specifying growth media composition. Bio Shop™ sources from facilities with halal-certified fermentation media — full traceability from yeast strain to finished powder.

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Stability Concerns

The free thiol (–SH) group oxidises readily to GSSG (glutathione disulfide), which is inactive for brightening. Protect formulations with: nitrogen blanketing during fill, airless packaging, EDTA chelation, pH 5.0–6.0, storage below 25°C, and light-protective containers. Yellow discolouration = oxidation = loss of efficacy.

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Environmental & Biodegradability

L-Glutathione is a naturally occurring tripeptide present in all living cells. Readily biodegradable. No bioaccumulation concern. No aquatic toxicity at cosmetic use levels. Environmentally benign compared to synthetic brightening agents.

Storage Guidelines
Handling & Storage
Temperature
Store at 2–25 °C. Refrigeration (2–8 °C) recommended for long-term storage. Never exceed 30 °C.
Container Type
Amber glass or opaque HDPE with airtight seal. Minimise headspace. Desiccant packets inside container.
Light Exposure
Protect from all light — UV and fluorescent. Light accelerates thiol oxidation. Store in dark cabinet or opaque container.
Shelf Life
24 months sealed from manufacture. 6 months once opened (if stored properly). Discard if yellow/brown discolouration appears.
Measuring Technique
Use dry, clean stainless steel spatula. Never introduce moisture. Weigh on 0.01g precision balance. Seal immediately after use.
Pre-use Handling
Allow container to reach room temperature before opening (prevents condensation on cold powder). Dissolve in water at room temp — never heat above 40 °C.
Lahore Storage
Extreme summer heat (45°C+) is critical — GSH degrades rapidly above 30°C. Air-conditioned storage mandatory May–September. Never leave in vehicles or unairconditioned warehouses. Double-bag with desiccant.
Karachi Storage
Coastal humidity (70–90% RH) is the primary enemy — moisture causes clumping and accelerates oxidation. Use desiccant-packed containers, silica gel sachets, and dehumidified storage. Seal within 30 seconds of opening.
Quality Check: Pure L-Glutathione powder is white to off-white with a faint sulfurous note. Yellow or brown discolouration, strong sulfur smell, or clumping indicates oxidation to GSSG. Verify with HPLC if in doubt — reject any batch below 95% reduced GSH. Request fresh CoA from Bio Shop™ for every purchase.
Frequently Asked Questions
Expert Answers
Is L-Glutathione halal? What about the fermentation process?+
L-Glutathione is produced via microbial fermentation using yeast (Torula or Saccharomyces cerevisiae). The molecule itself — a tripeptide of glutamic acid, cysteine, and glycine — contains no animal-origin components. However, halal status depends on the fermentation growth media: if the yeast is fed using animal-derived peptones or ethanol-based nutrient solutions, the final product may not qualify as halal under strict interpretation. Bio Shop™ Pakistan sources from facilities that use plant-based growth media with halal certification covering the entire production chain — from yeast strain selection through fermentation, purification, and packaging. Always request the supplier's halal certificate specifying growth media composition.
How do I verify the purity and quality of L-Glutathione powder?+
Visual check: powder should be white to slightly off-white with only a faint sulfurous note. Any yellow or brown discolouration indicates oxidation to GSSG (inactive form). Dissolve 1g in 10mL distilled water — it should dissolve completely within 2 minutes with no visible particles. pH of 1% solution should read 3.0–4.0. For definitive verification, request an HPLC Certificate of Analysis from the supplier showing ≥98% reduced GSH content, heavy metals panel (Pb ≤2 ppm, As ≤1 ppm), and microbial limits. Bio Shop™ provides batch-specific CoA with every order.
How should I store L-Glutathione in Pakistan's climate?+
Pakistan's two primary threats to GSH stability are heat (Lahore summers reach 45°C+) and humidity (Karachi coastal humidity 70–90% RH). Store the powder in air-conditioned environments at 2–25°C, ideally refrigerated at 2–8°C. Use amber glass or opaque HDPE containers with desiccant packets inside. In Lahore: air-conditioned storage is mandatory May–September; never store in vehicles or non-AC warehouses. In Karachi: moisture is the bigger concern — seal containers within 30 seconds of opening, use silica gel sachets, and store in dehumidified rooms. Shelf life is 24 months sealed; once opened, use within 6 months. Discard any batch showing yellow discolouration.
What concentration of L-Glutathione should I use in my formulation?+
For leave-on brightening serums: 0.5–2% (1% is the sweet spot for most formulations). For intensive ampoules: 2–5% (short-course, airless packaging required). For creams and lotions: 0.5–1% maintenance level. For shampoos and wash-off products: 0.3–1%. Do not exceed 5% in aqueous systems — above this concentration, auto-oxidation occurs rapidly and the formulation will turn yellow within days with no additional brightening benefit. Always formulate at pH 5.0–6.0 and include EDTA (0.05%) and airless packaging for leave-on products.
Is L-Glutathione safe for South Asian skin types (Fitzpatrick III–V)?+
Yes — L-Glutathione is particularly well-suited for melanin-rich skin. Unlike hydroquinone (which can cause ochronosis in darker skin types with prolonged use), GSH works through melanin-switching rather than melanocyte destruction. It shifts melanin production from eumelanin to pheomelanin without damaging or killing melanocytes. This means the brightening effect is gradual, reversible, and carries no risk of paradoxical darkening. Clinical studies on South Asian populations show visible improvement in skin luminosity at 1–2% after 8–12 weeks of consistent use, with no significant adverse effects. Combine with SPF 30+ daily for best results.
Can I combine L-Glutathione with Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and Kojic Acid?+
GSH pairs excellently with Niacinamide (3–5%) — they work at different points in the melanin pathway (production vs transfer). GSH + Alpha Arbutin is another proven combination. For Vitamin C: use stable derivatives only — SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) or MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) — which are compatible at pH 5–6. Never use pure L-Ascorbic Acid with GSH, as L-AA requires pH 2.5–3.5 which destroys GSH. Kojic Acid (Water Soluble) can be combined at low levels (0.5–1%) but monitor total copper chelators in the formula. Ferulic Acid (0.2–0.5%) is an excellent antioxidant co-stabiliser that protects GSH from oxidation.
Which skin concerns does L-Glutathione address — melasma, PIH, or general dullness?+
GSH addresses all three through its triple mechanism. For general skin dullness and uneven tone: GSH is highly effective as a daily maintenance active. For post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or injury: the ROS-scavenging mechanism is especially valuable, as oxidative stress drives PIH. For melasma: GSH helps but melasma is hormonally driven and multifactorial — topical GSH alone may not resolve deep dermal melasma. Best approach for melasma is GSH + Niacinamide + SAP in a leave-on serum combined with rigorous SPF 50+ protection. Set realistic expectations: visible results typically appear at 8–12 weeks with consistent daily use.
What Urdu brand names work for L-Glutathione products, and how does it perform in Pakistan's heat?+
Recommended Urdu/Roman Urdu names: Roshan Raat (روشن رات — "luminous night" for night serums), Safaid Noor (سفید نور — "white light" for brightening range), Chamak Serum (چمک سیرم — "glow serum"), Glow Ampoule (گلو ایمپول — widely understood). For hot weather performance: GSH itself is heat-sensitive, so formulations must be stored in cool conditions. However, the active mechanism is actually more needed in summer — UV exposure and heat stress increase melanocyte activity and ROS production, making GSH's antioxidant and melanin-switching properties especially valuable during Pakistan's hot season (April–October). Market positioning: pair with "summer glow" messaging emphasising UV protection synergy.
Full Reference Document
Dive Deeper — Read the Complete Guide
The complete L-Glutathione technical dossier covers advanced formulation chemistry, detailed clinical study summaries on South Asian skin types, extended stability data, regulatory comparison across 12 markets, and comprehensive raw material sourcing guidance for Pakistani manufacturers.